PROJECT DOKE

[venari]

[quote="TomcatMJ"]525 Sprockets are also available directly...
Frontsprockets: https://www.mykettenkit.de/Ritzel/525-58-x-516/
Rearsprockets: https://www.mykettenkit.de/Kettenraeder/525-58-x-516/
Chains: https://www.mykettenkit.de/DID-Ketten/5 ... 516//quote]

Thanks! These links are really useful and will help out a lot when I'm placing an order!

[willandrip]

I seem to recall that the strange bar end question was on the forum years ago.
If you look here ,it seems you are correct;
http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-fzr400u-198 ... ml#results

The expansion tank has level marks on it.
When the rad gets hot the coolant expands, this lifts the valve in the filler cap.
The excess coolant is forced into the expansion tank.
When the rad cools the vacuum opens the filler cap valve and sucks the coolant from the expansion tank back into the rad.

The expansion tank has an overflow pipe which is often missing.....if you replace it ; ensure it is near the top of the tank.
If you push the overflow pipe too deep into the tank it can empty the whole tank through siphoning.

[TomcatMJ]

To remove the Throttleassembly from the bar you will have to remove the whole bar, as the right bar doesn´t have a removable separate barend but is one piece within the bar itself...i trapped into this also when i found some nice blue anodized rizoma grips and barends and when i wanted to attach them i found its one piece. Due to the fact that blue anodized grips don´t look as nice as wanted i decided to resell the grips and bars later on and kept the original grips on the bars
The way to dismount the bars is loosen it in the clip at the fork, the upper screw showing to the steering-nut keeps the bar in the clip, so its enough to loosen this one screw to remove the bar, and no, due to cropping of the bar its not possible to use 2 left bars in order to change both barends (i already checked this and it gives a somehow funny angle for the right bar but thats not really rideable that way)....

[venari]

The way to dismount the bars is loosen it in the clip at the fork, the upper screw showing to the steering-nut keeps the bar in the clip, so its enough to loosen this one screw to remove the bar.

Just to be clear, do you mean screw number 4 in this diagram?



Thanks

[venari]

Beginning to regret this... What do you think? File it back flat or leave as is? I don't think I can make it any worse...

[TomcatMJ]

Use some Wetsandingpaper and a spraycan of filler and one of fitting Paint...exhaust-paint mostly is very near the original nearly-black anthrazit color of the bars.
Should be Screw number 4 if i remmeber correct, so check by view if its number 4 or number 3 before screwing it out...only one screw locks the bar into the clip as it drills directly inside the bar itself, so its not neccesary to remove both and so loosen the whole clip just to loosen the bar

[Evilchicken0]

Take the throttle bar off, find a man with a lathe, there will be somebody near you or go to an engineering workshop, they can turn it down a touch and get rid of the marks. Alternatively look for a clutch bar (I assume they're the same length but check them first).

[willandrip]

Beginning to regret this... What do you think? File it back flat or leave as is? I don't think I can make it any worse...

The man who has never done anything wrong has never done anything.

Bit by bit ....sometimes it's a steep learning curve.

You will fix that in a jiffy.

It will be good practice for when you repair outer engine casings.

[DonTZ125]

The float bowl screw heads get mangled because all X head screws on Japanese motorcycles are JIS standard fit
(denoted on an undamaged screw by a dot indent on the head thus x.) a Phillips screwdriver does not fit correctly unless modified. It is common on float bowls....a impact driver used carefully is recommended as is replacement with Allen (cap) screws.

One of the few times I disagree with Will ...

Be VERY careful when replacing Phillips and JIS screws with Allen bolts, or similar high-torque fasteners. The Phillips etc is basically a torque fuse, and was originally designed with the express purpose of stripping out before the delicate parts being connected could be damaged.

By replacing that easy-strip brass screw with a hardened steel Allen screw, you now face the prospect that if anything gets stripped, it's going to be your increasingly rare and expensive carb bodies.

Buy the proper screws from the dealer, buy the proper screwdriver from the hardware store.

[willandrip]

^ Float bowl screws were never made from brass.

You are thinking of jets perhaps ?

[DonTZ125]

*scratching head* Cold-pressed cheese, I sometimes wondered ... [shrug] The rest of the comment still stands! =)

[venari]

Update Time:
Carbs cleaned;
Carbs back on and clamped down;
Airbox fitted and clamped down;
New fuel filter fitted;
Fuel tank & fuel lines cleaned out with petrol;
Fuel system refitted;
Fuel tank filled up with fresh fuel;

Took a while for the fuel to get back into the bowls but the carbs are now back together and I got it running.

Unfortunately I am having very similar symptoms as before I started playing with the carbs...

[venari]

VIDEO TIME
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CM35N6 ... e=youtu.be

Thoughts?

[venari]

Quick thought, this exhaust sounds very open but the jets are still standard. I imagine this is not helping my problems although it was running fine OK before these problems... Although the seller did squirt fuel into the air filter before trying to start it...

[TomcatMJ]

Sounds quiet normal from the exhaust except perhaps a little bit unbalanced carb-sound with a bit to high idle-speedadjustment..maybe after cleaning and remounting the carb you forgot to rebalance it again? Check also for false-air from the rubberjoints if something is not sitting well there before readjusting the idle-speedscrew

Edit:Usually,when the motor is warm and you pull the choke-lever, the motor revs to 4000 rpm in idle,without choke it should rev to around 1350 rpm when the motor is warm. With a cold motor and choke it revs around 1800-2000 rpm and when you put back the choke-lever to early, the motor starves quickly if its not already warm enough (Values from a 3BF,should be directly adoptable to a 1WG)