do a complete service whats the best to buy 3en2

[fzrowner1]

whats the better one to get? cheers

[SouthendChris]

You need to ascertain which oil filter type you have! Does your oil filter spin onlike most modern car oil filters??? Or do you have an oil filter housing with an internal filter.



That would make it easy

Chris

[fzrowner1]

you just want pic of engine of have i gota take it apart im seriously usless but want to learn! cheers

[SouthendChris]

Yes. A picture of the bit behind the exhaust headers. Underneath the exhaust ports, thats where the oil filter or housing will be.

If yours looks like the one in this Auction you need the element type KN-144

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270994986732

If your oil filter 'looks' like this one then you are after the canister type.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390365011145

[fzrowner1]

its the top one 100percent spent half my life just looking around the engine thankyou SO much really great help thankyou for yout time cheers

[willandrip]

Did you read the post where it said do not skimp on oil filters ??
A genuine oem one is £2 more expensive than a K/N aftermarket pattern .
There again I quite enjoy reading the "My Engine has seized ,I think the pattern oil filter disintergrated and blocked the oilways because I missed a service interval " threads in topics . !!!!!!

[fzrowner1]

I got a hiflo one today the mcanic swears by them also got fork oil chain lube new fork seals and goin back tomorrow for oil (no room in bag) getting semi 10w 40w one you sent me a link to earlier cheers

[SouthendChris]

Did you read the post where it said do not skimp on oil filters ??
A genuine oem one is £2 more expensive than a K/N aftermarket pattern .
There again I quite enjoy reading the "My Engine has seized ,I think the pattern oil filter disintergrated and blocked the oilways because I missed a service interval " threads in topics . !!!!!!

Will. We can all see from the tone of your post that you are 'enthusiastic' about people not skimping on quality of replacement parts.

But your next sentence contradicts, in a way, the first.

Yes an OEM Yamaha oil filter may only be £2 more than a K&N oil filter. But in your second sentence - where you say you would enjoy a forum member reporting that his engine has seized due to him missing a service interval - would you say that his engine / oilfilter failed because he missed the service interval or because the quality of the pattern part? Just wondering that's all.

I personally have never heard of an oil filter failing and taking out an engine - maybe I am lucky. Or maybe it's because I do stick to service intervals regardless of whether I use pattern oil filters or OEM. For the record personally I insist on OEM air filters.

[Evilchicken0]

Yamaha doesn't make its own filters they're probably bought in from another factory and sold on so really there isn't a problem, that goes for all the motorbike manufacturers.
You can fit a K+N air filter to the 3EN its the same airbox as the fzr600. You won't any more performance from it but they last longer than the paper ones.

A useful mod for the 3en2 is to fit the fzr1000 ex up headlights - they use H4 bulbs which are better than the Japanese only ones and a lot cheaper

[willandrip]

Hi Chris and Boris.
The post stated that aftermarket Air filters were acceptable,
There is a reason for this .
An example is the manufacturer K&N;They are the leaders in the field of aftermarket air filters from earthmoving equipment to garden machinery .
They have spent the last 40 years plus on research and development and are highly respected in this field.
They do not however manufacture oil filters but buy in and box up items made buy a generic filter manufacturer at a price suitable to make a profit,The filter manufacturer also has to make a profit.This item now retails at around £2 less than the benchmark oil filter ;OEM .
Where would you presume have the costs been reduced to make this possible.?
I do not consider it to be in the packaging .

If an oil filter fails to retain or trap particles of swarf down to the smallest size that is possible with modern technology then the engine bearing surfaces are not going to appreciate this .If the filter loads with particles to the extent that oil flow is reduced and the bypass system is unable to cope with the increased flow; ditto.
What usually happens with cheap pattern filters is the paper element loads and then splits and dumps particles of not only contaminents into the oil flow but also pieces of the filter material itself.
Now both of you know ,probably better than I, that the Fzr 400 engine has small oilways to begin with.
No engine will tolerate restrictions in the oil feed passages particularly one that is high revving.
You are correct in the fact that no motorcycle manufacturer has a plant for oil filter production, nor does any vehicle manufacturer to the best of my knowledge excepting Caterpillar which used to have a filter plant in Pretoria , Illonois. I am not informed if this is still in operation.
However a OEM part manufactured by whomever has to pass much more stringent quality control than a generic filter. The pattern may indeed be manufactured at the same plant as the "genuine" part,even down to the same machine and operator.There is however no guarentee of this,It may well be made in a tin shed in Cairo.
A company selling pattern oil filters will not be unduly damaged financially or reputationally by selling a batch of substandard oil filters ,They will simply change the name and the packaging . This cannot be said for a major manufacturer and Yamaha have a particularly fine name and reputation to preserve.
If you have never seen oilway constrictions or engine failures due to premature filter degradation or in fact even heard of it then I suggest you visit any engine remanufacturer in the U.K.
It provides a high percentage of their work.
British Engines at Walker on Tyne would be more than happy to give a conducted tour; bit far for both of you really but they have other depos.
As to the service interval; Any manufacturer specifies an interval that is reliant on at least 4 things.
1;The engine type and anticipated use.
2; The oil that is specified for that application.
3;The fitment of recommended parts at service
4;An inbuilt factor of at least 30 % conservancy.(simply put;the interval can be safely exceeded but as a guarentee to cover themselves to prevent warranty liabiliy claims)
There are more but time is short !!
A reputable manufacturer will offer a S.O.S scheme at cost .
No. 3 is the relevant one.
If all parts were made to equal quality I would assume all would be riding around an "Ling Shin" tyres at £50 per pair and using Wilkinsons own brand oil at £4.99 per 4 litres.

Air filters can and do fail;usually the worst that happens is the engine no longer produces the expected horsepower or no longer has the expected response.
Fine particles are usually burnt off in the combustion chamber and any contaminating the oil are dealt with by a good quality genuine oil filter.
I have had, only once in over 4o years of owning/operating and maintaining engines of many descriptions, a major problem caused by an air filter,
This was premature bore wear on a very highly tuned 650 T/bird engine running methanol.
Twice in a row the freshly bored cylinders/pistons were out of tolerence in less than 3hrs running time when previously it had ran all season and was still to spec.
The problem was traced to K.N pod filters that had been produced with paper/foam not designed to take oiling as a dust filtration method.
This in turn blocked filter sufficiently to allow the fuel to wash the engine oil from the bores causing premature wear.
The extra richness was so small it was not discenable by the usual methods'.
If you wish to economize on servicing ; the oil filter is not the place to start.
I enjoy reading all posts relevent to the tuning/ servicing and repair of any engine from a lawnmower to a railway locomotive and the diagnosis of same.
It has been my career for forty years !!!!

[HybridSport600]

willandrip, Well said my friend, I have seen all types of filters fail from air to oil to fuel, and feel its the most important thing next to the oil its self. I Have had many older machines that were modified and would run with no air filter at all, and have never had a problem due to this, other than a lean/rich fuel mixture, but nothing that would suggest where they are going with it.
Not that its impossible, but unlikely the culprit.... Preach on, I highly enjoyed your post..

[HybridSport600]

NGK CR8E plugs are correct. Sellers will list them for loads of different bikes because...they fit loads of bikes

You could even fit the twin electrode CR8EK plug if you want, for a more reliable spark.

In **my** personal opinion Motul oil is not good stuff. A main dealer put some in my 2010 GSX650F at it's 8000mile/2yr service. I was doing a Euro trip to spain so wanted it done. Never felt right afterwards and gave the bike a really notchy gear change and the clutch bite point changed I'm sure. I changed it the minute I got back for Silkolene. Feels nearer to before but not all the way. I wont have Motul near any of my bikes now. P*ssed me off as I was thinking about that when I should have been enjoying the views not working around a now notchy gearbox....

Try these people http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270817027616

Oil is such a moot question. Bikes are so different and we use them for different things in different weathers. One man's meat.......as they say.

Cheapest CR8E plugs I have found is http://www.lsengineers.co.uk/cr8e-spark-plug.html

Chris

Actually Motul oil is the Oldest oil manufacturer, and has the most reasearch and inovation in the field. the first oil company was the "Standard" Oil co. and actually is motul, granted the company was bought and sold numerious times, but the reasearch has always been what was sold, along with the right to name it what they want...I dont fully agree with your "opinion" which you are sertainly allowed to announce, but feel you are just merly mis-informed....... in actuality all oils can produce the end results you have expressed. all higher mileage Gearbox/transmissions should not have that frequent of a change, because The fluid that has been in all this time has become dirty and gritty. This gritty fluid is actually providing needed friction for the worn internal parts of the gear box. its not saying not to change it, just not that often, and not a full drain and fill, do about a half capacity change with a new filter. This is most likely what you had expierenced.

[SouthendChris]

Actually Motul oil is the Oldest oil manufacturer, and has the most reasearch and inovation in the field. the first oil company was the "Standard" Oil co. and actually is motul, granted the company was bought and sold numerious times, but the reasearch has always been what was sold, along with the right to name it what they want...I dont fully agree with your "opinion" which you are sertainly allowed to announce, but feel you are just merly mis-informed....... in actuality all oils can produce the end results you have expressed. all higher mileage Gearbox/transmissions should not have that frequent of a change, because The fluid that has been in all this time has become dirty and gritty. This gritty fluid is actually providing needed friction for the worn internal parts of the gear box. its not saying not to change it, just not that often, and not a full drain and fill, do about a half capacity change with a new filter. This is most likely what you had expierenced.

Did you read and fully take in what I wrote? This was a 2 year old bike that I have had from zero miles - I was the one to push it out of the dealers. In for only its third ever service at 8000miles. Only ever touched by a main dealer.

First two services at 600miles and 4000miles were carried out with Shell semi synth oil - this was stated on the dealer reciept. The 8000 service (at the same main dealer) was done with Motul. Where you get the idea that 8000 is a high mileage on a modern engine i can only guess........and would you be happy if a main dealer only changed half the oil in your (new or old) motorbike?????

I would agree to your comment that any oil could produce the symptoms i mentioned. But it was the specific oils I mentioned that did it in mine.

[Evilchicken0]

Really it won't make a blind bit of difference whether you use a pattern or a Yam filter. Yamaha don't make them Yamaha don't test them. If you had the Hi Flow and the Yam together they would be so close as to make no difference.

Similiar - ish story with oil ... you're not going to use yamalube are you ? As long as you use the right grade and an oil for a motorcycle engine you'll be ok. Personnaly I usually end up with hein gerik because it's on offer, I could use halfords (I've got a trade card) lets face it it probably comes from the same (or similar) refinery. You're better off buying cheaper and changing it than an expensive oil and not.

the 3EN2 is an old bike now from 1989. Just hit oil changes (and the filter every other) and you'll be fine. The pipes will probably die before the engine.

[willandrip]

Chris;That is a very good site for any NGK product.
Fortunately I am able to obtain plugs as test items free and gratis but I thank you on behalf of other UK readers,
nice to see a site not making a killing on P+P.