Guys ,
i can tell you that there is one hell of a lot of info on mini & mega squirts and also on just mega / micro jolts ( Ignition systems that are programmable ) on the net. So much so that you can spend and awful lot of time reading.
Pretty good stuff if you spend a lot of time in a hospital bed, the down side is that "thinking" whilst full of doctor's cocktails of drugs can leave you confused. :{
I did have some longish "conversations " with a couple of bike fanatics on both types of system. How ever the lap top they are on is now 4080 miles away locked in my safe. .
I will see what I can do about web sites & email addresses from my usb sticks of basic filing info.
BUT from our own archive:=
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5124&p
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5139&p=54000#p54000
A quote that i kept :-
Been busy with work,, anyway.. here goes.
The missing tooth must be precise to wherever you want it. Weather it
be at 90deg, TDC, BDC, whatever. But you MUST know where it is. Its
designation is "tach tooth". The skip is what gives you your RPM
reading. The flat "pulse" is calculated against time, thus, you get RPM
output. Ive set mine up TDC on cyl 1. For each tooth you have a rising
edge, and a falling edge, and a pause in between. Spark angle can be
deducted to 2deg without a problem. With some good timing circuitry
(RTC / real time clock) you can "pause" the spark for 0.1ms, thus
getting 0.5deg accuracy.
Balance is not a real issue. My crank has been done, with that housing
attached, so its all good. As for welding.. less welds, to try and keep
the magnets strong, and as its just spinning with no friction, it goes
to 10kRPM without issues so far. 6 tack welds evenly spaced. The ring
is 3mm thick sheet steel.
Its also possible to pick up off cam wheels, and with some effort,
optical sensors on most anything thats directly connected to the crank.
Honda VTR (RC51) has a crazy 5-2 setup. It has 5 teeth, and 2 missing,
for a total of 7 places. I read that megasquirt has that native now as
a setup option. Ive never personally tried it, but suspect it would work.
4- +1 on toyotas also works. 4 teeth, evenly spaced, and an extra 5th
tooth at 45deg. To bring the total count up to 5. Thats ment to be
quite common too. I highly suspect any tooth combo could be coded in
without huge amounts of effort, BUT the accuracy without a RTC could be
an issue. As long as its NOT a delay tooth, like mine was, you should
be ok. Delay tooth is longer than usual. Not normal size. Instead of
missing, its like a huge bridge making one big long tooth. That has
huge issues and inherently sux. But i do believe its possible, since
many yamahas have it.
FZR TPI system. Yes its possible. You need to get some sort of PIC
programmer, dump out a BIN file, and bingo.. you now have all the "code"
which was on the chip. You need to get some base settings tho. You
would need an oscilloscope, breadboard, some electronics, etc.. You
could start "tricking" it into reacting. Feed it an RPM signal (via
o-scope) and a TPS number, and log the output. increase rpm pulses, see
what pins are changing. Once you know what each part is doing, you
sohuld then be able to "talk" with it.
Its not an easy task, but it is quite possible. Once a program is
written, you could simply "re-flash" a full ECU unit with your own
data. Powercommanders do this some what.. They interupt the data and
add their own numbers. If they were to make a "universal" replacement,
it would have that many damn wires and options... Its why the piggy
back option is more "retail" friendly.
By making your own ECU from scratch, or megajolt / squirt / whatever..
You get much more freedom in how you do things. You can easily add
extra features, and modify existing ones. Only limitation is your skill
/ effort / imagination.