97 yzf1000 won't start

[sgmxr6]

So this past saturday I got a 97' its low miles good physical condition easy on the eyes compared to my previous weeks score of my 89fzr600.Ok so here goes the story.The biles original owner did something to the engine not sure.So while the engine was getting a new head and top end they tossed in a new crank as well.They put it back together and it never started again.The bike will pop a little and back fire through the carbs a little but not start.So since the time the original owner did the rebuild It has set for a year.It still only fires but will not start.I plan to pull the carbs apart and clean them.But at the same time I'd like to run a basic diagnostic.
First I need fuel pressure
Second ignition timing (do these bikes use an electronic timing advance)If someone knows the base timing I can check it for accuracy.
I would like to double check crank and cam timing to be certain its not a few teeth off.
I suppose this machine uses a crank trigger for ignition like my fzr so if anyone has useful information on adjustment of this component that would be appreciated.
I'm also curious about the igniter itself are there any test procedures for these?
The bike fires so I believe its functioning on some level.
Thanks Steve,

[DonTZ125]

Coughing and backfiring after a top-end job says to me they screwed up the cam timing, mis-set the valve clearances, swapped around the spark wires, or possibly even swapped the cams.

These bikes were carb'd, so fuel pressure isn't an issue, and ignition timing isn't adjustable - like your. FZR, the TCI handles it.

[sgmxr6]

Thanks for the responce, I had a little time last nite to look over the ignition system but the manual I down loaded wasn't really clear on the coil feeds.The bike came with 2 sets of coils one set with red boots uninstalled and one set with black boots that are installed.The book shows the left terminal in the coils to be red and black and the right side are grey.But that is only correct on my left coil.The right coil has the red and black wire on the left terminal "BUT" an orange wire on the right terminal.?? I'm a little confused now.I'm an automotive tech with lots of experience tinkering with bikes so I've seen a lot of stuff but never such an oversight as this.Can anyone explain this please.?
The bike acts like its firing 180 out same symtoms of a miss timed car.
I'm going to pull the timing cover and check the mechanical timing too see if everything lines up.
But for now I'm scratching my head a little.

[sgmxr6]

I decided ti call my local Yamaha dealer and they faxed me a copy of the wiring diagram as they have it.The orange wire is certainly oart of the ignition system.And it is improperly istalled the harness is reversed its been firing the wrong coil at the wrong time.I'm going to correct this and see if the symptoms clear up.I also figured out this bike isn't an R1 its an Ace.Ill repost if this baby fires up.

[DonTZ125]

Yeah, getting the coil wires wrong will screw it up the same way as swapping the plug leads. Without a wiring diagram I'm guessing, but every FZR had the orange wire firing the 1-4 coil, with the grey wire driving the 2-3 plugs. It shouldn't matter which wire is on which terminal (R/B vs O or Gy), so long as the proper signal wire goes to the correct coil.

[sgmxr6]

That made a huge difference the bike fired without back firing and it started and ran a few strokes.I can smell the old gas in the carbs.I pulled them and drained them and removed the bowls.To my surprise there not showing a lot of funk or anything but Ill pull the jets and run some cleaner through them.I was expecting the worst and got better than I hoped.I read on here that these bikes have problems with the emmulsion tubes so I will check for wear tomarrow.I did get a chance to read the tac codes Its showing a code 3 and an 8 Don can you help with these sir?
Thanks Steve,
Pics soon

[DonTZ125]

3000rpm is the Throttle Position Sensor; check the connectors going to the TPS on the carbs. 8k is the Fuel Level Sensor; check the connectors under the tank.

[sgmxr6]

Don or anyone I have a problem and I need your help again.I tore the bike down cleaned the carbs fixed some of the harness damage opened the engine and checked the cam timing, Cleaned the tank and other odds and ends hit the choke and she fired right up.NOW the question on either side of the head there is a small hole kind of just below the engine mount on the head.On the left hand side of the head this hole is leaking oil.???The higher side isn't doing it but I'm guessing that's because of gravity???
I don't see this being listed in my manual anyplace what is it and why am I leaking oil from it.
Thanks Steve,

[DonTZ125]

That's the drain for the spark plug 'canyon', so your plugs don't drown in the rain. You probably have years of oily crap in there that desperately needs to be cleaned out.

[sgmxr6]

Thanks Don I appreciate the responce.This is fresh oil and about 4oz so far I think its finished hopefully.I'm going to check the valve cover gasket and make sure its seated properly.I hadn't noticed it straight away but apparently its been leaking for a few days as I discovered a puddle where it sat yesterday.
Thanks Steve,

[DonTZ125]

Sorry - missed the part about checking the cams. I think you're right, and the cam cover gasket got pinched, twisted, cracked or cut.

[sgmxr6]

Today I rolled the bike out of the garage and let it run for about 15 minutes monitoring everything .I started messing with bleeding the clutch and I'm hearing it leak in the slave.I pulled the slave and sure enough the seal is leaking.
So I guess I will be buying a new one before I can ride it.
I noticed that even with the slave bled out and having some pressure I'm not able to get any clutch at all.Wich may be ok I'm not sure what amount of pressure it takes to get the clutch to open.
So I just kinda toyed with the bike I reved it up a couple times and I heard a squeel and let the throttle out the bike idled ok for another minute so I reved it up a bit more and again the squeel.Its hard to judge where its coming from when sitting on the saddle.Has anyone had this happen in relation to a clutch or clutch component being damaged.?
Its kinda of reaching I know but I hate to keep running the bike at all until I've got a clue to what's causing the problem.
Steven,

[sgmxr6]

Anyone know what year engines will fit in my 97 yzf1000 ?

[sgmxr6]

Update,
So the manual doesn't really say wich side to remove the clutch push rod.I decided I would pull the clutch cover first and then remove the rod.
The plates don't look bad and it looks fairly fresh.However the ball is no where to be found.So I'm assuming this is part of the reason my clutch refuses to move.I'm going to order one today and see where that leads me.
I'm still concerned eith that squeeling noise, I'm not convinced its anything to do with the clutch.
The noise sounds like the kind of squeeling that an electric motor makes when the motor bushing is bad.
I'm wondering if the exup servo motor could be the cause? Since the noice only pops up when you rev the engine up a good bit.
Ideas thoughts???
Here's another interesting Item I discovered yesterday it may be nothing.But the front sprocket cover shows the shift pattern to be 1 down 4 up.Mine is 1 up 5 down ????????? That's a good one huh The story goes the first owner use to race this bike in its prime. don't know if this is a mod or a different engine but the case clearly reads 5 gears.
Thanks Steve,

[DonTZ125]

Wow - YZF750 tranny AND race shift? That's a nice bit of a mod. I wonder if your gears are undercut ...

The missing ball is definitely a worry, but I have to wonder if it isn't actually right there in plain sight. Is the end of either rod round? They should be flat, so if either is round, the ball has welded itself to that rod, and a squealing clutch is not uncommon with a welded rod ball.

The EXUP very rarely squeals - it's far more likely to rattle or jingle. Mine sounded like a handful of change in a dryer; the bushings had about 1/16" radial clearance!