FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Hi ive just bought a pair of front blue spot front calipers for my fzr600r because i thought they would bolt straight on. I tried fitting them today but they wouldnt go on as the caliper around the bleed nipple area fouls the fork leg. Is there a way around this? Was thinking of grinding a bit off the fork leg it wouldnt need that much taken off. Has anyone done this? Thanks in advance.

Scott,

If you had the 4 pot stock FZR calipers the blue dots should just bolt on. If your bike had the 2 Pot (early years) then blue dots won't fit. Do you have a picture of the original calipers? I bet you had the 2 pot units and that is why you can't fit the blue dots.

... but he says he has a FZR600R / YZF600 ...

We are gonna need a picture of your bike mate. If you have a 95 or newer 600r then the blue dots should bolt on no issues UNLESS a previous owner swapped in another front end.

scottfzr wrote:Hi ive just bought a pair of front blue spot front calipers for my fzr600r because i thought they would bolt straight on. I tried fitting them today but they wouldnt go on as the caliper around the bleed nipple area fouls the fork leg. Is there a way around this? Was thinking of grinding a bit off the fork leg it wouldnt need that much taken off. Has anyone done this? Thanks in advance.

Hi,
here is a link to my fzr '92 model with blue spots :-

http://www.saltmine.org.uk/fzr/frontbrakes.html

As you can see the bleed nipple is no where near the fork leg.

As has been suggested elsewhere a picture of your bikes front forks would be an idea to help us see what is different with your set up.

I have a fzr600r with bluespots have a quick look see if the fork legs are the same search 'my foxeye restoration' loads of pics on there

I got the impression (probably from a thread on here) that not all Blue Spot calipers are the same. R6/R1 calipers will fit but not Thundercat ones.

Hi everyone thanks for the replys. My bike is the fox eye fzr600r the same as Dougs. It has got the four pot front calipers as standard. The calipers definetely wont bolt straight on though. The only thing i can think of is there are different types of blue spot calipers??? They were only advertised as blue spot calipers. I will try and get some photos to show everyone. Thanks.

scottfzr wrote:Hi everyone thanks for the replys. My bike is the fox eye fzr600r the same as Dougs. It has got the four pot front calipers as standard. The calipers definetely wont bolt straight on though. The only thing i can think of is there are different types of blue spot calipers??? They were only advertised as blue spot calipers. I will try and get some photos to show everyone. Thanks.

Scott,
what you can do is measure the fixing hole centers and post that, then may be we can work this out

Ahhh I can answer this!

Yes you are going to have to gring a little away at the side. The calipers that you have are the early blue spot calipers that were either on the ace or cat when they came out. The bleed nipple screws come out the side and just barely don't fit. So you take the drmel and just grind a little away until I matches up so the bleed screw clears.

It would be bolt up with no dremeling with later blue spots but th early were like this.

Do you have a 4JH? Is that what the foxeyes were called in the UK.

Cheers!

Hello again iveonly just had time to get my calipers on. Looking at pictures and by what your all saying it seems as though i have thundercat calipers! As Mcfizzer said though they only need a tiny bit grinding from the fork leg so i gave it a go and the calipers are on! My next problem is i cant get them to bleed out. The lever doesnt seem to get any resistance.Is there a special bleeding procedure? My bikes got braided goodridge lines and also has a bleed nipple on tha master cylinder?!? Thanks in advance.

scottfzr wrote:Hello again iveonly just had time to get my calipers on. Looking at pictures and by what your all saying it seems as though i have thundercat calipers! As Mcfizzer said though they only need a tiny bit grinding from the fork leg so i gave it a go and the calipers are on! My next problem is i cant get them to bleed out. The lever doesnt seem to get any resistance.Is there a special bleeding procedure? My bikes got braided goodridge lines and also has a bleed nipple on tha master cylinder?!? Thanks in advance.

S,
OK leave the bike alone over night, then slowly pull the brake leaver in, undo the bleed nipple on the MC ( put a BIG rag over it so it does not put fluid all over your paint !) it should bubble at that point lock it tight again.
Then do the same thing SLOWLY, use a tie wrap/elastic band to hold the lever in, and bleed each caliper.
release the lever and see if that has improved things for you.

The trick with brake line bleeding is slow pumping, I take it by the way that the lines go from the calipers straight to the M/C and it has NO splitter block because they make excellent air tanks, if it has a splitter you have to turn that up in such away as to allow the air to float up to the M/C which is far easier said than done.



The expensive (relative)way is to buy a brake bleed pump kit

You have Thunderkitty calipers. The easiest way to tell is the crossover tube. R6/R1 calipers are monoblock and don't have the tube. I have 2000 R6 calipers on my 95 legs which should be the same fork that you have. I would get a set of R6 calipers before I started gring on my fork legs.

Rich wrote:You have Thunderkitty calipers. The easiest way to tell is the crossover tube. R6/R1 calipers are monoblock and don't have the tube. I have 2000 R6 calipers on my 95 legs which should be the same fork that you have. I would get a set of R6 calipers before I started gring on my fork legs.

Rich,
thanks for the explanation of the difference

ANYONE: George wants to put pics of both types in the WIKI so others know what they are buying

[/quote]

S,
OK leave the bike alone over night, then slowly pull the brake leaver in, undo the bleed nipple on the MC ( put a BIG rag over it so it does not put fluid all over your paint !) it should bubble at that point lock it tight again.
Then do the same thing SLOWLY, use a tie wrap/elastic band to hold the lever in, and bleed each caliper.
release the lever and see if that has improved things for you.

The trick with brake line bleeding is slow pumping, I take it by the way that the lines go from the calipers straight to the M/C and it has NO splitter block because they make excellent air tanks, if it has a splitter you have to turn that up in such away as to allow the air to float up to the M/C which is far easier said than done.



The expensive (relative)way is to buy a brake bleed pump kit[/quote]

Hi all ive had a go at bleeding my calipers again and im starting to get some feeling to the lever. Thanks for everyones advice. I will try and give it a final bleed tommorrow so i can get out on it! I still dont fully trust my master cylinder though so im thinking of getting a new one. What would people recommend? Fzr/yzf or r6? Is there any advantage to a r6 master cylinder? Also is it a straight fit? Sorry for all the questions but i couldnt find much info about it. Thanks again.