FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Anyone know if I can turn the motor upside down and pull the bottom of the crank case off without having to deal with the gears?

I need to remove it so I can add a 1" tap to it.
The 3/4" hole I drilled is all lop-sided and stuff so its no where near a perfect circle. and Im not to sure how to weld on just a normal spacer so I thought of this idea which will keep things clean.

Gotta remove the cams, cylinder head, and cylinder block in order to access two crankcase bolts between #2 and #3 cylinders in order to remove the lower crankcase half.

F*@#$KKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK!




I think im just gonna epoxy a plate over the hole and say screw it. its been over a year not knowing my speed, I think I can go another few.

just bite the bullet and pull the engine and have the bung welded in it might be a bit of work but it can only take so long to do it like pulling off a band aid once you start you have to finish

haro504 wrote:just bite the bullet and pull the engine and have the bung welded in it might be a bit of work but it can only take so long to do it like pulling off a band aid once you start you have to finish

I will only do that if I had the stuff to do the 660.

oh i dident mean take the engine apart i just ment have a threaded collar welded to the outside of the hole

Hey Shred. Try this as I've thought of trying it myself but I don't have the gauges to work with. Go to the hardware store and get a small Neodymium Magnet. These things are supper strong and are used with aftermarket speed sensors. Plug the speed sensor into the gauge cluster and turn the damn thing on. Wave the magnet back and forth in front of the sensor and see if the gauges register anything, the magnet will need to be really close to the sensor (like millimeters ). If it does not, then the magnet won't work. If it does, get the case welded back up and mount the sensor so it will point at the magnet which you will mount in a front brake disk bolt or epoxied to the rear sprocket. You will probably need a speed healer to accurately adjust the speed.

I'm just guessing on this, but it seems to me that the way the sensor captures signal from the gear and translates it is about the same way it would if it were picking up a magnet. If not, it might be possible to modify a magnetic speed sensor wiring to plug into the gauges so it will work.

Anyone else have any ideas on this? I feel like I'm stretching a bit on it.

cad600 wrote:Hey Shred. Try this as I've thought of trying it myself but I don't have the gauges to work with. Go to the hardware store and get a small Neodymium Magnet. These things are supper strong and are used with aftermarket speed sensors. Plug the speed sensor into the gauge cluster and turn the damn thing on. Wave the magnet back and forth in front of the sensor and see if the gauges register anything, the magnet will need to be really close to the sensor (like millimeters ). If it does not, then the magnet won't work. If it does, get the case welded back up and mount the sensor so it will point at the magnet which you will mount in a front brake disk bolt or epoxied to the rear sprocket. You will probably need a speed healer to accurately adjust the speed.

I'm just guessing on this, but it seems to me that the way the sensor captures signal from the gear and translates it is about the same way it would if it were picking up a magnet. If not, it might be possible to modify a magnetic speed sensor wiring to plug into the gauges so it will work.

Anyone else have any ideas on this? I feel like I'm stretching a bit on it.

thats how some work.
I had a bicycle speedo on my bike when I had the old forks on it but it topped out at 40mph.

Ill just save the extra $$ and get a tomtom with mph on it

Cad,
some enterprising bike company actually sell bolts withose magnets already in stalled in the srew thread end in side a pocket

Damned if I can remember who though BUT it was very recently say 7 days or so.

yamaha_george wrote:Cad,
some enterprising bike company actually sell bolts withose magnets already in stalled in the srew thread end in side a pocket

Damned if I can remember who though BUT it was very recently say 7 days or so.

The Vapor (Trailtech) gauges I'm using now actually operate with the magnetic bolt. I swapped on of the front rotor bolts out with the magnetic one and positioned the sensor to pick it up. I'm not sure which way I like better. The bolt makes it easier, but also limits mounting possibilities.

What are your thoughts on the sensor idea though Geo? Does it have a foundation to work from? I've thought of using an R1 gauge set on a future build which is what got me thinking about it.

shredex wrote:thats how some work.
I had a bicycle speedo on my bike when I had the old forks on it but it topped out at 40mph.

Ill just save the extra $$ and get a tomtom with mph on it

You can also get one that will simulate a fuel meter. But they are not very accurate. If you do get one, mount up a tack and then the GPS in a dash unit that allows you to remove the GPS very quickly. Last thing you want is to come out of a store and that part be stolen.

cad600 wrote:
The bolt makes it easier, but also limits mounting possibilities.

What are your thoughts on the sensor idea though Geo?

Does it have a foundation to work from? I've thought of using an R1 gauge set on a future build which is what got me thinking about it.

Cad,
The problems for the "stock" yamaha sensor arrangement:-

1} Actually positioning the mounting hole correctly in the lower case

2} Accurately making the hole (as Shred found ) whilst engine is in situ

3} An oil tight union with the sensor to case.

As with any problem there is an engineering solution:-

A] drill the sensing hole way over size

B] make an oblong oversized plate from 2-3mm sheet to cover the hole with an accurate hole in it that can be placed to line up exactly with the sixth gear <?>

C] bend the sheet so that is follows the contour of the engine case.

D] make an oblong 10mm thick plate spacer with sensor hole & fixing hole that is smaller than the sheet (preferably just big enough to take the sensor * say 4mm wider & longer.

E] file / machine one face of this thick spacer to match the sheet curved face.

F] Tig weld the spacer to the sheet.

G] Making sure the sensor hole is in the correct position trim the sheet to within say a minimum of 3mm border from the spacer,

H] Tig weld the sheet to the engine case (making sure the sensor hole is now in the correct position )

I] Once the assembly has cooled , install the sensor with an O ring & connect your wiring to the R6 or R1 guages.

As you can see it is fairly labour intensive, you will still need a speedhealer from what I have read. So the magnetic bolt seems an easier route labour wise and cost is about equal on sundries { SpeedHealer, sensor, Magnetic bolt ) the actual instrument price is the biggest deal R1 & R6 are sub 100 bucks Vaypor 's etc are about 150 ish )


The whole darn thing could be a lot easier IF someone published the EXACT hole location for the 6th<?> gear with a template drawing, we could print and tape to the engine underside

yamaha_george wrote:Cad,
The problems for the "stock" yamaha sensor arrangement:-

1} Actually positioning the mounting hole correctly in the lower case

2} Accurately making the hole (as Shred found ) whilst engine is in situ

3} An oil tight union with the sensor to case.

As with any problem there is an engineering solution:-

A] drill the sensing hole way over size

B] make an oblong oversized plate from 2-3mm sheet to cover the hole with an accurate hole in it that can be placed to line up exactly with the sixth gear <?>

C] bend the sheet so that is follows the contour of the engine case.

D] make an oblong 10mm thick plate spacer with sensor hole & fixing hole that is smaller than the sheet (preferably just big enough to take the sensor * say 4mm wider & longer.

E] file / machine one face of this thick spacer to match the sheet curved face.

F] Tig weld the spacer to the sheet.

G] Making sure the sensor hole is in the correct position trim the sheet to within say a minimum of 3mm border from the spacer,

H] Tig weld the sheet to the engine case (making sure the sensor hole is now in the correct position )

I] Once the assembly has cooled , install the sensor with an O ring & connect your wiring to the R6 or R1 guages.

As you can see it is fairly labour intensive, you will still need a speedhealer from what I have read. So the magnetic bolt seems an easier route labour wise and cost is about equal on sundries { SpeedHealer, sensor, Magnetic bolt ) the actual instrument price is the biggest deal R1 & R6 are sub 100 bucks Vaypor 's etc are about 150 ish )


The whole darn thing could be a lot easier IF someone published the EXACT hole location for the 6th<?> gear with a template drawing, we could print and tape to the engine underside

Sorry about that, I meant trying to use a magnet with the factory sensor so it can be mounted on the front or rear wheel instead of drilling into the crank case and f*cking up the engine. Again, I think a speed healer will be needed to adjust the reading though.

cad600 wrote: Sorry about that, I meant trying to use a magnet with the factory sensor so it can be mounted on the front or rear wheel instead of drilling into the crank case and f*cking up the engine. Again, I think a speed healer will be needed to adjust the reading though.

Cad,
From what I have read on this topic here at FZROnline you will need a speed healer either way.
My personal choice if I did the magnet trick would be the front wheel (less wiring issues) probably to substantial bracket on the front LH caliper held by the caliper mounting holes & the magnet on the disc rotor out of the pad swept area.

Using this photo :-


say between the RH Blue spot & the letter I on the fork sticker, the magnet could be on the disc to carrier rivets ?

Just an Idea.