yamaha_george wrote:When you cut the can, lengthen the mid pipe to get the heat away from your right heal else you will be buying boots on aregular basis and you will have a serious hole in the power delivery fro shortening the tuned length of the pipe too much , extending the mid pipe will help that particular problem !
YG,
Is there an equation as to how much you cut=how much the mid pipe needs to be lengthened??? Also I'm thinking of switching to the R6 headers which looks like the mid pipe has a bit of length from the stock FZR headers. Should that be good???
Sorry missed that,
the tuned length of the pipe is along the theoretical centre of all the tubes from the backside of the valve head to the exit of the muffler. If you shorten the silencer section by 6 " than you should try & lengthen the mid pipe by 6" .
If you get creative with the mid section using smooth curves you can still get full power even though the whole thing "looks shorter".
THE FOLLOWING IS IN THE WIKI :-
If you want to do this properly without cutting metal first but do it all in Pixels it is worth contacting :-
In this case balls is definitely good. That gauge looks awesome.
1994 FZR600: Hardly anything left stock
02 R6 Front End
Ducati M900 Seat/Taillight
Honda VFR750 Swingarm/Wheel
No Spacer 660
YZF600 Tank
Renthal Dirt Bars
Too much else...
JRK5892 wrote:hey bud what did it take to get tha guage working? it is balls!
ughh, cutting the wire harness back a number of inches. Then just matching the wires from the FZR wire Diagram to the one from the KOSO Wire Diagram. Pretty simple actually.
I'll try and take some pics at night with it ON so you guys can see her in all her awsomeness glory
