My fzr wont run after the mechanic touched her

[yamaha_george]

dirty connection .... servo is functioning again . Must of been when I moved the wiring it was enough to completely foul up a connector . I pulled off every connector I could see and cleaned it .

SS,
as you are finding out with older bikes the DEVIL is in the detail,

my old mantra for my students " if something stops working it is what YOU did last that killed it "

[ssimonn]

number 30 pilots are in, no change , bogs still..

[yamaha_george]

number 30 pilots are in, no change , bogs still..

here is a daft suggestion that we used moons ago take the jet out and run the bike & see what happens

[ssimonn]

r u serious ?

[yamaha_george]

r u serious ?

SS,
Absolutely, back in the day when tuning a engine leaving the mains out was the way to go so that all the other circuits could be tuned without the mains interfering.

Now it occurred to me that the bike is stifling with the original jet and with the 30's so if you took them out the worst that could happen is to run rich, but being there in person you would be able to tell the difference in throttle action as to whether you needed seriously larger jets (ie the bike was more responsive with no jet ) or in fact the feeling was that it made it worse ie you need smaller than 30.

My gut feeling is it will work "better" with no jet and you need bigger jets. but that is a hunch /best guess sitting at a key board, you will be the best judge being there.

The other thing is that should the passage way to a jet<s> be clogged you should be able to pick that up by ear from the sound of the engine firing.

[DonTZ125]

YG - my recollection was that pulling the main was to check if the NOZZLE was too restrictive; if nothing changed, then the needle jet was too small and it was choking the fuel flow before the main jet could.

We're talking however about the PILOT jet.Given the bore difference between a #30 pilot and the socket in which it sits, I can't think of any diagnostic benefit - the only possible reading is "richer", it can't possibly read "leaner" and it's not possible to tune richer than "no jet at all"!

[yamaha_george]

YG - my recollection was that pulling the main was to check if the NOZZLE was too restrictive; if nothing changed, then the needle jet was too small and it was choking the fuel flow before the main jet could.

We're talking however about the PILOT jet.Given the bore difference between a #30 pilot and the socket in which it sits, I can't think of any diagnostic benefit - the only possible reading is "richer", it can't possibly read "leaner" and it's not possible to tune richer than "no jet at all"!

Don,
the English language again,The idea is that removing the jet as stated will run rich but the feel of the throttle at that point will show whether going richer is the right way before splashing out on a miriad of jets to only find that we actually needed to go smaller than 30.
As for your comments about nozzles the words Grandma & eggs come to mind

[ssimonn]

my feeling is the 30 was to much .
I'm getting annoyed now as well cause it's perfection here is east Aus. for riding , perfect day.

Once this , 1/8-1/4 throttle is sorted the fzr should be a good bike ..

oh this is frustrating , quarter throttle was bogging , soon as touch the throttle (1/8) then pick up at 1/4.. so I went ot make a vid to show here , so then it doesn't do it . I'll check the vid then post it up.

[ssimonn]

the needle is on the lowest setting (highest clip point ) so today I'll drop it two and see how it goes , I think I have 3 more carb remove/refit's in me , only because the airbox doesn't fit as it should and takes ages to get it proper air tight .

[ssimonn]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McoBJvhYJXc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVbWQ6IBCv4

not sure if these vids are real helpful.. but busy with other things for the next few days.

[yamaha_george]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McoBJvhYJXc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVbWQ6IBCv4

not sure if these vids are real helpful.. but busy with other things for the next few days.

Guys,
is it just me but in the first it is on 3 cylinders every so often ? SS your comment about not bogging when the camera was on was because the engine was warmer than at first.
I think most of us have come to the conclusion that the FZR does like to be real warm to run right. The 2nd video I take it was soon after the first and before the bike was up to temperature ?

[ssimonn]

this round of court is over , got the kids back so back to the shed and now I can relax knowing the kids are sleeping happily inside..

yeah the bike does like to be warm , it's still not pulling very hard though . I wish that tacho would work .But that said it did move a couple of times , jumps up to around 7 grand them goes back down to zero , I think I have read something about that somewhere so I'll do some research.
Other then that I'll lower the needle clip one more , idle needs adjusting again , as it revs a bit high then drops a bit low , toggle the throttle it revs a bit high again for a little while then drops to low again , bit like an air leak...
Also I grabbed some welding tips and tube today to balance the carbs as I haven't done that yet either.

One last thing , should much noise come from the timing chain , mine seems a bit noisy at lower revs , could be just me not knowing this bikes ..


So thats where I'm at tonight , change needle , adjust idle , balance ..

then I might do the valve heights again , I just don't like that after I did them they were at their lowest tolerance. and 3$ each shim up the road from here (not exchange) is no big deal.

[yamaha_george]

t 3$ each shim up the road from here (not exchange) is no big deal.

SS,
you may want to try exporting them at that price <BG>

[ssimonn]

DAMMIT



cam bolt

[yamaha_george]

DAMMIT



cam bolt

OUCH, at least you live in a country where if the stealership does not have one you can get it made !