FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

I poste don FZR archives............any help / insight would be greatly appreciated.....

My main question is .....Can I use a YZF stator if I swap over the stock FZR pick coil and the cover?

http://www.fzrarchives.com/ipb/index.ph ... opic=45686

No, you can not swap the stator or the pick-up coil. The thickness of the stator itself combined with the location of the timing mark on the rotor have a lot to do with it and this is different between the FZR and both model YZF's. The rotor is not interchangeable either. You can pick up a new stator from here Electrosport. Granted $139 is not cheap, but it is brand new. The other option is to find someone selling one either on a forum or on eBay.

Or, you can get yours rewound with more windings-which gets you increased output.

Don't quote me, but StatorCorp's price on rewinds used to be $129...and their warrantee was two years (which is more than OEM OR Electrosport)....

I believe Electrosport will 'overwind' too....you just have to call/talk to them.

Alright guys. Check this out.

http://www.fzrarchives.com/ipb/index.ph ... yzf+stator


Its seems that the OP used the YZF stator and just swapped over the FZR pickup coil to it.


I also looked at the electrosport stator and they are the same size. Both 104mm. Im thinking you can swap the YZF stator itself into your stock fzr cover and stock fzr pickup coil.

I don't think you can cut the pick-up coil from the FZR off and attach it to the YZF stator. It could work, but I know I wouldn't try it. The stator for the most part can not go bad. It is just a simple electromagnet. It can get dirty and not be as affective, but it is 99% of the time the pick-up that goes bad on these.

We know the YZF unit will not work in a FZR engine. If you have a YZF unit, save yourself the headache and sell it so you have the money to buy a FZR unit from someone.

Did you look at his post on the Archives? A burned plug like that says to me the coils corroded out the insulation and shorted internally. Also, I think you're confusing the stator and the pick-up coil. The stator is NOT an electromagnet, but an array of towers and windings, swept by the permanent magnets in the rotor, and they do most certainly go bad. There are businesses out there whose entire existance is founded on the failure of stators.

The ignition pickup is a variable reluctor, a permanent magnet with a coil around it that pumps out a little AC pulse as each timing bump goes by. It's so lightly loaded that I'd be surprised if it was a common failure point.

DonTZ125 wrote:an array of towers and windings

And as soon as you have a metal mass rotating around it, it creates and electromagnet.

Yes, they do go bad. But it is not the common thing to go bad on these. More times than not, it is the pick up coil. Which is the part that tells the TCI to drop the field which fires the spark plug. The timing bumps have nothing to do with the stator. All the stator does is recharge the battery. And yes, if the plug is burned that badly on it I would agree that the stator is bad but something else must be wrong too for this to happen. I'd bet the VR is shot as well. Battery could be too even if it does hold a charge. Mine would charge up and hold but as soon as I put any load on it, it would discharge with in 30 seconds.

Either way the original question of using a YZF stator still does not work. And I don't think that cutting the pick up coil off of the FZR unit and wiring it to the YZF unit will solve anything.

A whirling mass of magnetised metal around / within a coil that induces a voltage is an alternator / generator, not an electromagnet. An electromagnet is a stationary lump of ferrous (usually) metal surrounded by a charged coil. The distinction is which is driving (motion or current) and which is driven (voltage or magnetic flux).

I think the point behind the exercise with cutting off the pick up coil was to use the YZF stator on the FZR, but keep the stock VR wiring and location and thus maintaining ignition timing. If the YZF stator can be physically mounted without nudging other parts out of position, I don't see why it wouldn't work.

Stators do just up and die sometimes, and I agree that the VR should be checked, but I would suspect that the VR is a vistim rather than a suspect.

Thanks guys for the replies. I was looking at an option of getting a YZF stator itself and attaching it to my FZR pickup and cover as Don stated. Im pretty sure it will work also. The YZF and FZR stator assemblies are both 104mm. The onyl ting different is the pickup coil hence why it has a different part #.

I know my stator is focked. My pickup coil is fine because I can run the bike off of battery reserves. If the pickup coil was bad the bike wouldnt run at all. It wouldnt even start.

I can start the bike take a reading at the stator wires and I only get 26 -28 A/C volts on each leg at 3K RPM . Same thing going into the VR. With the stator and everything connected the way it should be I only get 12.5 Volts DC at the battery at 3K rpm.

I have a relatively new R6 VR but I will check it once I get my new stator in. I found a place that will rewind my stator plus give it an extra 20% on the windings for $78 shipped with a year warranty and help after that. The guy stands behind his work. I will let you guys know what I find after I get the new one mounted up and checked.

Where's this place? I'm considering getting my stator overwound to deal with the extra load of the EFI system I'm planning to add.

Ask and ye shall receive.....

http://www.tpe-usa.com/


Guys name is Tim. really cool guy. Is thourough and answers all your questions.

I stand corrected. The YZF stator will not work in the FZR cover with the pickup. I wa sinformed by another member who was trying to do the same thing I was wanting to do.

Ok guys. I finally got my rebuilt stator in. Its a bit heavier than my stock one. The guy that rebuilt it said he added 20% more windings to it and he also gave me a set of terminals and a new plug to fix my harness on the bike end.

Put it all together and I get about 13V at the battery if I hold it at 3K RPM for about 15 seconds. It slowly creeps up to 13V.

I took a reading at the stator and I get about 42V which technically is in spec.

I think ultimately what might have happened is that my VR is going out slowly and my stator went out with it. Now that the stator is fixed the VR is bad...

I can get a brand new OEM 2009 R6 VR from partshark.com for about 60 shipped. Should I go that route or chance it with a used cheap one from fleabay?

EDIT.....................

I test my VR off the bike using this procedure from electrosport.

http://www.electrosport.com/technical-r ... -guide.pdf

If I go by that ....then my VR is good. What gives?

I figured it out. I definately pulled a squid move on this one. The problem was that I never had a fully charged battery to begin with. I let my battery sit on the trickle charger for about 18 hours. That refreshed the battery back up to 12.7V at rest.

Now when I turn the bike on it gets close to 13V at idle and right at 14.2V at 3K rpm. Doesnt go above that that with higher rpms.

Here is a picture of the rebuilt stator... stock on the left and rebuilt with 20% more windings on the right.

Thanks to everyone that helped.

That's NICE.

It would be very interesting to run the numbers on that overwind and find out what your wattage output is

DonTz has those maths down....


Hey Don????