R6/R1 Digital Gauge Swap

[mszilves]

I would like to ask how many pulses/teeth the device uses for speedo input! if you are using the speedo corrector thingy why not count the teeth on the front sprocket or rear and then calibrate for those settings.
Ozzyfzr

This is a good idea, but the tranny sprocket has some 30 teeth, while external points would have much fewer. I don't think the range for the speedo converter is that wide, but that aside, like I said before, this is also where it's mounted stock on the R6 as well as many other bikes. I also didn't like the sensor sitting externally subject to dirt and grime. My setup hasn't skipped a beat in 13000km (8000mi).

[yamaha_george]

I would like to ask how many pulses/teeth the device uses for speedo input! if you are using the speedo corrector thingy why not count the teeth on the front sprocket or rear and then calibrate for those settings.
Ozzyfzr

This is a good idea, but the tranny sprocket has some 30 teeth, while external points would have much fewer. I don't think the range for the speedo converter is that wide, but that aside, like I said before, this is also where it's mounted stock on the R6 as well as many other bikes. I also didn't like the sensor sitting externally subject to dirt and grime. My setup hasn't skipped a beat in 13000km (8000mi).

MS,
as they say "the proof of the pudding is in the eating " at 13K on the engine is proof enough for me.

If someone wants to do an external i would suggest the rear sprocket as it is 45 teeth (stock) and is 50% exactly over the 6th gear teeth of 30 so the math is easy. Writing the manufacturers (still no link given ) would say yeh / nay to whether the speed healer will work.

From my point of view dimensions, links and photo's of the unit in place to show how it is held in place would be the clincher.

Did either of you pioneers in this mod use an "O" ring as an oil seal round the unit ? Nerd

I f you are quick enough I could do this when I swap out my swingarm/shock/wheel assembly

[95FZR600]

I had my swingarm removed about 4 weeks ago when I did the R6 swinger swap and after further examination of the sensor area I had no leaks what so ever. Because I used the R6 sensor and it being taller than the fj one I had to use a washer to space it out and then I JB welded it in there. I dont plan on replacing it but if I did, it would not be hard to dremel that shit out of there. I also did my homework on it as did mszilves. Im just waiting on him to put more up on the WIKI but its really easy and all the directions are on the wiring schematic.

[ozzyfzr]

dude, did you drill your engine cases with all the tranny parts in place? Because if you did, kiss your engine goodbye. There is going to be metal shavings all over inside there.

Also, the casing is a much softer aluminum while the tranny is hardened steel.

There is essentially no difference between how this is mounted and how it's found on some stock bikes. Trust me guys, I'm an engineer, and did all the research before going this route.

The Tranny may be hardened steel but the engine/gearbox share the same oil and the main bearings are "soft", I would say you were very lucky not to get swarf in the oil that circulated the motor and destroyed your bearing shells!!!

I do not trust engineers! I worked in F1 for 3yrs and seen some classic "flawed designs", after all the "Ark" was built by amateurs and the "Titanic" by engineers.

Don't take that as a personal insult anyone!!!! I'd rather strip the cases if I was about to go drilling holes in my motor!

Regards
Ozzyfzr

[yamaha_george]

I do not trust engineers! I worked in F1 for 3yrs and seen some classic "flawed designs", after all the "Ark" was built by amateurs and the "Titanic" by engineers.

Regards
Ozzyfzr

Ahh but the Ark was under the say so of God , the titanic was sunk by an act of God.

[95FZR600]

dude, did you drill your engine cases with all the tranny parts in place? Because if you did, kiss your engine goodbye. There is going to be metal shavings all over inside there.

Also, the casing is a much softer aluminum while the tranny is hardened steel.

There is essentially no difference between how this is mounted and how it's found on some stock bikes. Trust me guys, I'm an engineer, and did all the research before going this route.

The Tranny may be hardened steel but the engine/gearbox share the same oil and the main bearings are "soft", I would say you were very lucky not to get swarf in the oil that circulated the motor and destroyed your bearing shells!!!

I do not trust engineers! I worked in F1 for 3yrs and seen some classic "flawed designs", after all the "Ark" was built by amateurs and the "Titanic" by engineers.

Don't take that as a personal insult anyone!!!! I'd rather strip the cases if I was about to go drilling holes in my motor!

Regards
Ozzyfzr

I guess that would make a dozen lucky ones then.

[haunter]

if you are going to do it, I would drain the oil.......dumpo some in via he hole you made, rinse, repeat....

[yamaha_george]

if you are going to do it, I would drain the oil.......dumpo some in via he hole you made, rinse, repeat....

H,
I would do it the reverse way round wait for an oil change, drill and then the "leak" would help flush the hole area.

I would then thin down the old oil with gas & re pour the old oil thro a filter (read handkerchief in a funnel) back in via the top up plug.
Repeat until satisfied I have no swarf in the engine .

[haunter]

sorry I meant drain after you drilled, then add more, and drain it etc


flush alot of it through there


do the oil pickups on these bikes not have screens btw...?

[yamaha_george]

sorry I meant drain after you drilled, then add more, and drain it etc


flush alot of it through there


do the oil pickups on these bikes not have screens btw...?

H,
yes 2.20 in the Haynes manual

[haunter]

good that helps some

[95FZR600]

If I was to do it again, I would drill hole and then hold bike upside down to get all the shavings out.

[shredex]

I would suggest before completly drilling threw the case, magnitize the tip of your drill bit so it catches any lose metal.

[yamaha_george]

I would suggest before completly drilling threw the case, magnitize the tip of your drill bit so it catches any lose metal.

Shredex,
I think you will find that the engine case is alloy so drill chips are non- magnetic :-}

the Tinkerer's Life is NEVER that simple

[reelrazor]

I would suggest before completly drilling threw the case, magnitize the tip of your drill bit so it catches any lose metal.

Shredex,
I think you will find that the engine case is alloy so drill chips are non- magnetic :-}

the Tinkerer's Life is NEVER that simple

If you were really worried about it you could always get a slugger bit :

http://www.jancy.com/index.cfm?fuseacti ... ductid=112

These capture the drilled slug and minimise the amount of swarf by cutting the only the perimeter.

If you buy a Vor-tech blower system for your car, they supply one of these to drill and tap your oil pan (while it is in place) for the blower bearing return oil line.