Got a polishing problem/question, I hope there is a answer

[RCPlayland]

I have done my share of polishing and with great success! I have several types of polishing compounds and also tools to do the job.

Here is my problem.

I have in the past made the lips on my rims polished after puff canning (painting) them. This part has worked great and when the oxidize from exposure I can get perfect results agian with minimal effort from neverdull/mother's wadding polish.

Now just recently I had my rims powdercoated to match my frame (candy blue/metal flake). When I had them powdercoated I told them I wanted the lip of the rim left untouched so I could polish it like before. He said no problem. He taped them off and did the powdercoat (not sure on how and what he did cause he got them back to me a week later).

When I went to pick them up, the rims looked great! But the lip was oxidized... I didn't think nothing of it cause I have had great success before with my puff can proceedure. So I get the rims all mounted with new tires and bearings. I go to polish the lip and ...... I can't get the oxidation out.

I have used FZ metal polish, neverdull wadding, mother's polishing cream, and lightly used polishing compounds (brown, green, and white). I have used both my tools and by hand to get this out. Where the oxidation isn't (blotches, areas like when you pull take off of something) it polishes great. But where the oxidation is it is darker and very ugly.


My question is.... am I screwed? Did the baking of the powdercoat process burn the adhesive from the (green "special") tape he used to cover the polished lip area into the metal?

[Ike]

My guess would be from when they tank them to strip them.

[yamaha_george]

My guess would be from when they tank them to strip them.

+5 on that they are chemically "burnt" and a pigs ear to get back it can be done BUT it will be a tedious process

NEXT time have then blasted clean with walnut shell or if requiring harsher treatment glass beads

In theory you could do this now BUT strip out tyre & bearings and mask like no other time and only use walnut shell have achat with agood metal treatment shop if in doubt

[PIMPMYFZR]

im trying to polish a YZF wheel and i cant for the life of me polish that inside or the mag part where the metal isnt flat but more bumpy .. its pissing me off to the point where im about to just paint it one solid color or just paint the inside and keep the lips .

[megaloxana]

Doesn't sound like this will help you but I used steel wool to polish my lips.

[RCPlayland]

im trying to polish a YZF wheel and i cant for the life of me polish that inside or the mag part where the metal isnt flat but more bumpy .. its pissing me off to the point where im about to just paint it one solid color or just paint the inside and keep the lips .

I know the answer for this one. You have to get a "paddle wheel" sander attachment. I suggest starting with 60 or 80 grit. this will sand down the bumpy area and then you can move on to traditional polishing techniques after that area is smooth.

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TY george! This sucks. I am driving the bike tomorrow by his shop so the powdercoater can take a look at it. The tape he used is not supposed to do this. I just hope it is fixable and he takes care of it.

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megaloxana = ty for the suggestion... tried that. Didn't work. Also too when using steel wool... you have to use "stainless" steel wool. Just steel wool will cause oxidation/rusting cause of fragments that embedd in the aluminum and stainless will still embedd but not rust.

[megaloxana]

megaloxana = ty for the suggestion... tried that. Didn't work. Also too when using steel wool... you have to use "stainless" steel wool. Just steel wool will cause oxidation/rusting cause of fragments that embedd in the aluminum and stainless will still embedd but not rust.

and thank you for the suggestion...coincidently I do believe I used stainless steel wool. What luck