New Paint Job: lines on the tank?

[nortstudio]

Thanks for reminding me Kid! I actually have some of this from a project - sealing a raw metal tank. It came highly recommended. Great for tanks because it really resists fuel.

It's pricey, especially when you can't get it locally, because they charge hazardous materials shipping fees, which were almost as much as the can itself. I need to dig some up around here. It's NYC after all, but I came up short a year ago.

[nortstudio]

if you want to use just paint bombs themselves then i recommend RustOleum as it has a very high bonding agent in it like primer does.

I ended up running back to the auto store and grabbing the Rustoleum. They had more of all the stuff I needed in the Plastic specific paint.

I prepped the fairings with a little more cleaning (wax and grease remover), and next week I will sand and get the Yamaha letting area a little better/smoother. Man, I never realized how complicated it is to remove the front fairing. But now all of the fairings and fender are off, and ready for scuffing and then primer....

Got the speedo fixed while I messed with the front, so that felt productive.

Quick question: I have read to be cleaning in between coats/sanding with wax and grease remover. Is this right? It seems to leave the stock paint shiny, which leads me to believe there is some type of residue. It looks gorgeous actually. I only wish I wanted the bike all white

Thanks for all the help.

[cowboi]

if you want to use just paint bombs themselves then i recommend RustOleum as it has a very high bonding agent in it like primer does.

I ended up running back to the auto store and grabbing the Rustoleum. They had more of all the stuff I needed in the Plastic specific paint.

I prepped the fairings with a little more cleaning (wax and grease remover), and next week I will sand and get the Yamaha letting area a little better/smoother. Man, I never realized how complicated it is to remove the front fairing. But now all of the fairings and fender are off, and ready for scuffing and then primer....

Got the speedo fixed while I messed with the front, so that felt productive.

Quick question: I have read to be cleaning in between coats/sanding with wax and grease remover. Is this right? It seems to leave the stock paint shiny, which leads me to believe there is some type of residue. It looks gorgeous actually. I only wish I wanted the bike all white

Thanks for all the help.

as for removal of the front fairing i found it easier to just have an f150 hit you first.

if you are doing a 2 stage or 3 stage paint job then i would suggest wet sanding with 4000 grit paper but scene you are doing a single stage then id wipe the parts down with medium reducer thinner before you paint then a tack cloth. if you use the clear-coat like Nate said then just tack cloth them first and nothing else but be sure to let the paint dry at a min of 36 hrs. depending on the consistency of the clear-coat and how many coats you put on you can wet-sand in between the clear-coats to get a deeper look. (ie; it looks like its 1/4'' deep).

[nortstudio]

Is medium reducer thinner something I can get at home depot (or a house paint store)??? Not familiar with it. I've heard about all the thinning etc with compressor based rigs. I have tack cloths already - so that's a start!

RE: front fairing removal. I hope that actually didn't happen! Horrifying - but yes, easier than the way I did it today.

Of course the real problem with having the whole front off is that you realize that you could be cleaning all those books and crannies in between coats of paint....

[cowboi]

Is medium reducer thinner something I can get at home depot (or a house paint store)??? Not familiar with it. I've heard about all the thinning etc with compressor based rigs. I have tack cloths already - so that's a start!

RE: front fairing removal. I hope that actually didn't happen! Horrifying - but yes, easier than the way I did it today.

Of course the real problem with having the whole front off is that you realize that you could be cleaning all those books and crannies in between coats of paint....

the f150 happened, that why i rebuilt the bike in the pics

this is what i would use. i buy it from DuPont in 5gal containers.
http://www.homedepot.com/Paint-Cleaners ... ogId=10053
they sell it in qt. too so it would be cheaper.

[nortstudio]

Oh. I thought you were talking about something different. I have a bunch of their products in a bin at the garage from other projects. I'll have a look around, I might even have this already. I thought this type of stuff would mess with the paint between coats, so I guess I figured there was some other product out there they'd like to sell me Thanks for the tip.

Sorry to hear about the accident. Hopefully the injuries to the body weren't as bad as the ones to the bike.

[nortstudio]

Hey Cowboi,

Anoter quick question. I have laid down my primer, but also got a guide primer of a different color to help me with sanding to the right "depth." I'm wondering if I am supposed to sand between those two primer layers???

Or do I just put the 1st primer on, let it dry, and then the 2nd guide primer, and THAT gets sanded until I can see a bit of the 1st?

Make sense?

Thanks for all your help. Foolishly, I have high hopes!

[cowboi]

Hey Cowboi,

Another quick question. I have laid down my primer, but also got a guide primer of a different color to help me with sanding to the right "depth." I'm wondering if I am supposed to sand between those two primer layers???

Or do I just put the 1st primer on, let it dry, and then the 2nd guide primer, and THAT gets sanded until I can see a bit of the 1st?

Make sense?

Thanks for all your help. Foolishly, I have high hopes!

your right to a point, when i build up using body filler or gorilla hair ill sand in between coats or every other coat but in your case id say lay down a a few thin coats let them dry and then wetsand with maybe 1200 grit to see where your valleys and hills are, if need be repeat until you feel that you have a good base to lay your paint onto. just make sure your final prep before paint is a good 4000 grit wetsand so you will have that smooth base to lay your paint on. when i did my tank cover i used 80 grit to take all the decals off and to basically grind it down to the bare plastic then i used 180 grit to smooth any imperfections out then 280 and a primer, after a few coats of primer i wet sanded it with 3200 (all i had) let it dry in the oven (house oven 225 degrees for 5 min) then i sprayed it with 4 thin coats about 10 min apart.ive done alot of my parts that way and had success. ill find last years PPG training video and upload it so you can see it. ive spent over 1000 hours between DuPont and PPG training courses in my 10 years of paint and body.

if you can get the basics down then you paint job will look great and i cant wait to see it.

[nortstudio]

I'll have to find some 4000 grit. The highest I have is 1500, or maybe 2000. I'm usually just doing aluminum parts.

I'm not sure how great this will look, I'm dealing with some serious limitation in terms of space etc. also, there is no way I could bake the paint, because I live in a Brooklyn apartment - I couldn't fit my gas cap in the oven

I finished the first 3-4 coats of primer tonight. I'm letting dry over night, and I'll check it out in the morning. Probably lay a quick guide coat to help with sanding - let dry, and then get to it. Most of it looked pretty decent. I'll need to sand (and possibly redo) a lot on the tank. But that's fine. I'll get the orange peel out before moving on, and none of the other parts had any so far.

At first, it seemed the Rustoleum was leaving some blobs, despite shaking for 3 minutes timed, test spraying etc. but it dried on there looking good, so I should be ok. It just makes me worry about the base color coat.

I'd love to check out that video. Your help has been great.

[nortstudio]

Man! These curves on the fairings are a Bi*@ch!!!! Good grief, what was I thinking.

Sanding went pretty well. Just the tank is left - and I suspect that I may need to hit it one more time with primer. But hoping the other pieces will be good to go.

I guess I can always go with 'Ghetto can be ghetto fabulous.'

[cowboi]

Well , whats she looking like. I know you have done a great job so share the pics now. Lol

[nortstudio]

Oddly enough, today I just finished the final color coat. Now more days of letting it dry before the final very light wet sanding and clear begins.

Pics will be coming, as soon as I can get the clear on. Probably another week, at the rate this has been going. But already, even of I end up with the typical "rattle" looking job, I can tell I'll be happier with the color.

The waiting to cure is killing me!

[yamaha_george]

I would recommend this over the top. Stuff is hard as nails and allows good protection with almost spray gun results.

http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm

Hey TK,
my brother used that stuff on his Hardly and he loved the result good call I had forgotten about it. Going back abit always use an under coat of some kind as it provides a uniform colour to paint on. different colours underneath atop coat will vary the finish colour slightly. (Do not ask how I know that one LoL)

[nortstudio]

That SprayMax is the stuff I got - everyone swears by it, especially for the tank and anywhere that may be contacted by fuel.

I finally found a local paint place that would order it for me - so that the hazardous shipping is not equal to the cost of the can (which is pricey to begin with!).

I'm still waiting out the final drying time before clear goes on....we shall see

[nortstudio]

Well, somehow I messed up the top coat. I was following the directions I had printed out - and did the final VERY fine wet sanding with a lot of soap on the SprayMax clear coat. I then immediately followed it up with some rubbing compound (cheap turtle wax - maybe this was the issue), and polishing compound. It ended up leaving spots of dull, cloudy white in some areas. Good Grief!!!!

I did the compounds pretty quickly after the wet sanding - but IIRC, it didn't look like the 2000 grit had left these marks.

I guess it's back for one more light coat of SprayMax - in hindsight, I feel I could have left it alone....

Just when it looked like I was done. UGH!!!!