FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Yea the little cap that goes on the end of the swingarm that the axle adjuster screws on . Well for some damn reason unknown to me I keep bending eventually cracking in half . On the left side/chain side. I seem to notice this when I ride pop an occasional wheelie but I'm not rag the clutch or monsterClutching wheelies ! Am I tightening it to much ? This is my second one I'm replacing I have an fzr one on the other side and that one has yet to break ! This is my yzf600r swingarm caps that keep bending due to stress . I just don't know if I'm tightening my chain to tight or what ?

Well how much slack are you leaving in the chain? Usually you want about an inch of travel in the middle of the chain.

megaloxana wrote:Well how much slack are you leaving in the chain? Usually you want about an inch of travel in the middle of the chain.

+1 on that.

This is a common problem on YZF swingarms when you don't have the rear axle nut torqued enough.

What are you torquing it too? The FSM says 85 ft-lbs.

diztroy wrote:This is a common problem on YZF swingarms when you don't have the rear axle nut torqued enough.

What are you torquing it too? The FSM says 85 ft-lbs.

I have found 3 of mine already damaged so I had a pal mill some out of 3/4 inch alloy plate.
see :-

http://www.saltmine.org.uk/kgb/yp7.html

diztroy wrote:This is a common problem on YZF swingarms when you don't have the rear axle nut torqued enough.

What are you torquing it too? The FSM says 85 ft-lbs.

thanks you i was wondering about that , i didnt have a socket for the axle nut so i couldnt torque it .. but now i will get one

i was using my wrench till it stopped then gave it another turn like 180 degree

PIMPMYFZR wrote:

diztroy wrote:This is a common problem on YZF swingarms when you don't have the rear axle nut torqued enough.

What are you torquing it too? The FSM says 85 ft-lbs.

thanks you i was wondering about that , i didnt have a socket for the axle nut so i couldnt torque it .. but now i will get one

i was using my wrench till it stopped then gave it another turn like 180 degree

Yep, very important to torque those bolts. Engine and critical chassis components should always be tightened to proper torques. A torque wrench is a must for working on bikes.

yea i just bought one .. i dont know if it will be heavy duty enough though ,, it goes upto 140 ft lbs was only one they had in stock ... i wanted one of those 1/2 that you just twist the grip to the right amount preferred .. the one i have has the little needle in the middle that goes side to side ..dont know how accurate it will be but i guess should be close just a little old school which i can live with ....for now ...thanks guys

actually in my experience the old school style ones are more accurate, it'll do the job just fine

manveru wrote:actually in my experience the old school style ones are more accurate, it'll do the job just fine

for those of you with the dial in the torque type if you have a mobile snap on dealer round your area or your work you can actually have them test for accuracy, my dealer knows me as a PITA customer with weird requirements like spark plug taps, so i get mine done for free, if someone is standing in for him it costs me a fiver + vat.
either way it is cheaper than a stripped bolt or stud.

well i torqued my axle nut to 85 ft lbs .. but now it seems as if my wheel doesnt wanna turn .. it's almost like i have the rear brake on at all times ... when the rear is on the stand and i try to turn the wheel by hand barely does a quarter turn .. im thinking that the axle nut is tightened to much , but now im also thinkin my wheel bearings could probably be shot also ..

85 ftlbs is the FSM spec.

Did you re align the wheel before torquing?

Are you sure you've got all the parts installed? I know how swaps go sometimes; if you don't remove the parts from the donor bike yourself, you don't know whats missing.

Here's a diagram, if part number 12 is missing it might cause what your describing.

diztroy wrote:85 ftlbs is the FSM spec.

Did you re align the wheel before torquing?

Are you sure you've got all the parts installed? I know how swaps go sometimes; if you don't remove the parts from the donor bike yourself, you don't know whats missing.

Here's a diagram, if part number 12 is missing it might cause what your describing.

yea i did it to that spec .. and part # 12 i had ordered when i did the swap come to find out i had it on the sprocket carrier but i changed it out anyways put the new one but yet it still does it . im beginning to think my chain isnt long enough still because i barely have any room to adjust the slack but i wanted to keep the wheel at the front lines of the swingarm so not to change the wheelbase too much maybe ill add some links to the chain and try it again .. thanks for the pic tho

Ok, just checking, sometimes that part just falls right out of the bearing (and rolls away ) and othertimes it takes a press to get it out.

Just thinking out loud here, but if your concerned about keeping the wheelbase closer to stock FZR, couldn't you also grind out a little bit of the front of the axle slot on the swingarm so you could move the axle/wheel farther forward? I can't remember if there's enough tire clearance with a 180-55 to do that.....my memory says it is pretty close already.