Project Fizzer Fixer Uper (94 FZR600)

[MOzarkRider]

Most of you know that I recently picked up a 94 FZR 600 that needed a little work to become road worthy again.

I guess to kick things off I should tell a little about the back-story of the motorcycle. The owner before the Previous owner (PPO) laid the motorcycle down for one reason or another on the right side. This destroyed the right fairing, bent the Headlight/Fairing stay, ground a hole in the starter cover, and smashed the instrument cluster. When the hole was ground in the starter cover it allowed 90% of the engine oil to be returned to the ground from which it came.

From there the PPO began to part out the bike. He managed to sell the exhaust off the bike before he sold it to the Previous Owner (PO). The Previous owner was one of those guys who just searches Craigslist all day long for bikes that are sold cheap enough to part out. Then he parts them out to make a profit. He bought this one because he needed the CDI/CTI ignition computer box for his own FZR. He also used the Main Relay and Flasher Unit. He began taking the bike apart but I caught it on CL before he sold any parts.

I picked the bike up off Craigslist Chicago for $500 which is a fair deal IMO.

Here we go

Starting out, this is what I was looking at on Craigslist




My plans are to
1. See if the bike runs
2. If the bike runs then Fix it up
2a. If the bike doesn't run my Seca will see some major upgrades.
3. Make a decision, keep it or sell/trade it :cruise:

Here's a better look at the bike and the problems it came with:





The rear wheel was taken off and whoever took it off didn't put the rear part back on the axle. I am not sure why


The missing electrical components as mentioned before, CDI box, the main Relay, and the Flasher unit:




Broken starter peanut cover on the right side:


Missing Exhaust and Header:


The bike also has a mess of parts on the front end that are either missing or broken. And all the cosmetic issues and missing fairing pieces.

But there is hope there are a few pieces that came with the bike that are savable:


More updates will come soon, we will see if we can get the bike up and running and back on the road. Im pretty excited about this project.

[MOzarkRider]

The next step in the process is to see if this beast will actually run. If it won't there is no need to go any further and my XJ will be getting upgrades. In order to get it to run I need the parts listed above that are missing. I received the missing pieces a couple days ago. Thank you ThatKid for the parts.


The only thing left is the peanut cover with the big hole in it:


I talked to our expert welder at work and although he did not have the necessary equipment to weld aluminum, he knew someone who did. The cover was ground down by an accident and it also cracked under the hole. This was quite a difficult repair for a welder but he was able to get it back to holding oil for me so I could try and start the bike up. I did not use a proper gasket under the cover since I still do not know weather the bike will run. I used a copper blended silicone that I use on most engine parts that require a silicone gasket. It seals a little better than the standard black silicone.



So now I have all the parts I need to try and start the bike.

[MOzarkRider]

While I was waiting for the other parts to show up in the mail I decided to clean the carbs out. The bike has been sitting for 2 years so I suspect that they are nasty and filled with gunk....
Onward and downward my friends first off I had to remove the tank. The petcock has an off setting so I didn't bother draining the tank first.


Taking off the tank is a fairly straight forward process. First thing remove the mounts. There are two, one in front and one in back. Then remove the selector knob from the petcock.


In reality all you need to do to pull the tank now is to remove the main fuel line to the carbs and unplug the fuel pump and pull the tank and pump out as a unit. I didn't know this at the time so I disconnected the fuel pump from the tank and pulled the
tank out without the pump.




And here is the bike without the carbs or the airbox.

BIRDNEST!!!!!!!! :laughter: I think it's actually a mouse nest but none of the wiring on the bike has been chewed through.

Fuel pump...


On to removing the Carbs...
I took the front gas tank mounting bar off of the frame. The Intake-Carb boots are held in place with allen hose clamps, first time I have seen them on anything....


I get everything loose and pop the carbs off the boots and whoops I forgot the Choke.


With that taken care of the bank is off.




Whenever you take an intake part off you really need to put something down to plug the holes. Rags, towels, plugs. In this case I just used some plastic bags bunched up:


While all this was going on I drained the old fuel out of the tank... It didn't look good, I do think the Blue Bucket makes it look worse though.


More updates soon

[reelrazor]

PURPLE WHEELS!

Good luck on the fixing up!

[MOzarkRider]

Moving toward the goal of getting the bike ready to start I went about cleaning the carburetors.




The first thing I usually do when rebuilding, cleaning, ect... a carb bank is remove the diaphragms. So I set about doing that.... I have found that Original Armorall is absolutely the best investment you can make for working on anything especially carburetors. If your are in a pinch it restores O-rings to a useable condition. Although if you are looking long-term just get new O-rings. But it is the absolute best for diaphragms it takes old, stiff, ready to crack diaphragms and restores them to their old flexible rubbery selfs.




I will let these diaphragms sit for a couple days. I also put the little O-rings under the diaphragm cover in a small puddle of Armorall to restore them as well.


While I am here I might as well pull the EPA plugs. This is similar to the XJ Carbs in the fact that it covers the A/F adjustment. Also it is the same process to remove them.
Find an appropriately sized drill-bit for a self tapping screw that I have lying around the shop. And carefully drill a hole through the center of the plug, making sure to stop before hitting the Pilot Screw.
Then screw the machine screw into the hole and connect it to my trusty sheet-metal slide hammer.


Slight knock and done:




Next I usually separate the carbs before taking off the float bowls.


I took the center pieces off too, the cable guides and such. This makes it easier IMO to put more pressure on the screws in order to get them out with large Phillips head screwdriver.


Time to see what is in store for the carbs... I'm thinking grime and varnish from 2 years of gas sitting in the bowl plugging every orifice in the carb.


Would you look at that they are damn near spotless!!
From here I did not go any further... The carbs are in decent enough shape to attempt a start. I put the float bowl cover back on and called it a night.


A couple days later I came back and finished putting them back together.
Look at how good those diaphragms look after a couple days soaking with Armorall you do want to take a dry non-shedding soft rag or towel and wipe off the access armorall before installing the diaphragms.


And everything back together and ready to install on the bike.

Up next..... We will see if this old beast yet lives

[MOzarkRider]

With the Carbs all back together and the parts I need sitting on my living room floor I am ready to put the bike back together and attempt a start.
It was a cold and dreary night here in Northwest Indiana, the kind of cold and miserable that can only be compared to the darkness of a Yukon winter. Well, I may be exaggerating a little but It was snowing pretty good:


Great night to work on the bike.... Especially since I have to move it into the garage from the shed where it sets


First up is to drain the remaining oil out of the sump and add a new oil and filter. Pretty straight forward especially since the bike has no exhaust on it...


Found some good news here, upon inspection of the oil, it appears to be free from metal flakes and other chunks of piston or other engine or clutch internals.
Out with the old, in with the new:




Now that that is taken care of I needed to do some discovery since this is the first time for me working on this bike. So I took the radiator off. Pretty simple really, a couple hoses, a couple bolts and it comes right off.
So first I loosened the support bolts to lower the right side lower than the left to drain all the fluid out


Then some drainage:




And done:


I took this moment to see how well the PO's were and tested the fluid to see if the bike had been winterized properly:


PASS

Underneath the Radiator I can see what else is missing


Hmmmm... It appears that I am missing wires for the number 1 and number 4 cylinders...
Oh look the whole coil is missing


I got a walmart sack of spare pieces with the bike when I got it so I checked that to see if I have one.
Lookie there... got one


I fixed the ends and reinstalled the coil where it is supposed to be.


Now it's looking better, by the way that black cover that was under there was a pain in the arse to get out... Not as bad going back in though




While we are on the ignition, I might as well reinstall the TCI/CDI box:


Also the Turn Signal Flasher and Main Relay can go back where they belong:


Break time

On the way out to the garage I couldn't help but snap this little gem


Ok Back to work...

Since the chain is useless anyway and just getting in the way I got rid of the Tet-nus trap that used to be the chain:


After a gratuitous amount of beating with a punch the chain surrendered and I went about the front sprocket cover.
Which I see now that I neglected to take a photo of, oh well... what I found here was actually significant, the PPO took shitty care of this bike judging by the front cover and clutch adjustment.
The cover had backed out about 3/8 of an inch. The clutch actuator is located in the front cover... Instead of tightening the cover and readjusting the clutch, he just screwed in the clutch adjustment without tightening the cover So when I tightened the cover up the clutch was insanely too tight, All is well though the clutch is now adjusted back to where it should be as per FSM.

Exhaust time....
Headers going up, without gasket I should mention, again why spend unnecessary money before knowing if the bike runs.


Just so I save my eardrums for my future I'll throw the muffler on...


I guess that leaves the Fuel System... My bank is already to go so


I reinstalled the Radiator and the Coolent, old coolent, I will replace the coolent if the bike runs.


I went ahead and replaced the old cracked fuel lines with new ones, along with a new filter


Hooked up the fuel system as a unit this time... Learned from the destruction...


And the last line is installed:


Time for gas


Final step... I need a battery.... Hello old friend,


It's not the same battery but it will work for a test:


Follow along with me on this journey In HD
Part 1


Part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MgEhk_1w-sQ

I couldn't get the youtube [youtube][/youtube] to work
put it in like this like the other forums I have encountered
[youtube]HNJF3D1SZo8[/youtube]

Is there a trick for this forum ?

[thatkid]

sweet! Now it looks like you need to buy lots of pretty parts!

[MOzarkRider]

sweet! Now it looks like you need to buy lots of pretty parts!

I bet you were counting on this weren't you

I still have a lot of work ahead of me but first thing is to get it in rideable condition and since I didn't really clean the carbs last time... I need to do that, It won't idle and mid range isnt great so there is probably some crud in the idle circuit that needs cleaned out.
Will update when I have more

[Kevadlilleke]

Nice project, nice progress. It seems you started out even worse than me ([Project thread] The Yellow FZR - 1990/1993 FZR1000). I'm still waiting for the winter to end and snow to melt.

[sweekster]

Lets see if that makes the YouTube function work. Nice progress so far reminds me of when I got my 1k running for the first time.

[Rob1969in]

Any updates on this?