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Commuting and 520 Quick Accel Conversion

Posted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 3:02 pm
by emt803
Will be changing chain and sprockets very soon. Have looked into the pro's and con's from members here and other sportbike forums that Google saw fit to direct me to. Seemed like people either loved it, or thought that it really didn't make a huge difference for streetriders/commuters. No one really had a HUGE problem with it per se though. I primarily commute pretty good distances at a clip (minimum 100 mile round trips) at speeds averaging 55-80 mph (mostly highway). I don't care about losing a little off the top end, would love to be less jerky in low gears (could possibly be remedied with simply a new chain that doesn't have tight spots), and wouldn't mind being able to take off faster in traffic to get out of hairy situations if need be. Being at a higher RPM in gears and losing a few miles per gallon were concerns, along with the aluminum sprockets supposedly wearing faster, but there were some solutions to those issues as well. Either way,

Do any of the commuters or 520 conversion members here have an opinion specific to my situation? I am a distance rider 90% of the time and drive my bike if I am going anywhere, so she runs a good bit quite often. I would like the stock lower gears to be a little less "herky jerky", but am weighing what a conversion might also due to fuel consumption and engine strain. As you can tell, I like saving money on vehicle maintenance, like to attempt doing my own work if feasible, and can't afford to have the bike in a shop for days and days if I mess it up changing a chain for the first time. Should I start researching different options or do the pros outweigh the cons to FZR 600 commuter/ DIY'er's on the board.

Re: Commuting and 520 Conversion

Posted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 4:08 pm
by ragedigital
"520" simply refers to the width of the chain itself.

What you're referring to is changing the sprocket sizes. If you average 55-80 mph, then stick with the stock sprocket sizes (15/45). They will give better fuel mileage. If you want a little more take-off and still save some mpg, then go with a 15/49 set-up. That will save on chain wear since the front sprocket will not be smaller than stock. However; if you end up wanting more kick, then you can simply change the front to a 14 and it will be a nice little terror. I ran a 14/49, but didn't commute. It was a nice fit for the FZR on the street and track.

Re: Commuting and 520 Conversion

Posted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 5:09 pm
by emt803
Ok, that makes sense. The only real difference that I was able to discover was basically what you we're referring to in regards to the lighter aluminum 520 sprockets being used due to the lighter 520 chain. I never have been able to make the connection with why those couple of oz/lb's would make that huge of difference to a street rider, although terms like "revolving and rotating mass" where thrown about, but I was already too perplexed with the bike to dive into physics. I'm sure that somehow the chain being lighter has to give more of an edge than simply reducing weight, but then again, I know how crazy some of you track guys are. I guess I should of given a little more background info, as I PROMISE I can't even count the posts that I have read on it and have done a good share of web surfing on the topic. Let me make sure I understand here though. WE CAN USE 530 chains/ sprockets "toothed" like the 520 quick acceleration kits online correct (as long as sprockets/ chain are both 530)? In going that route, we would still have the same effect on the gearing (depending on sprocket teeth used), but would be using longer lasting materials. Will the strain on the chain going around a 14 tooth front sprocket be just as tough on a 530 chain as a 520?

Re: Commuting and 520 Conversion

Posted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 5:44 pm
by ragedigital
emt803 wrote:WE CAN USE 530 chains/ sprockets "toothed" like the 520 quick acceleration kits online correct (as long as sprockets/ chain are both 530)? In going that route, we would still have the same effect on the gearing (depending on sprocket teeth used), but would be using longer lasting materials.
Sure, they make different sized sprockets for the stock chain. You can simply order 530 sprockets. Usually the selection is limited though. The reason the stock rear sprocket lasts longer is that it is made from steel. Aluminum rear sprockets can last a long time too as long as they are properly installed and maintained. In either case, the front sprocket is made from steel.

The updated chain found in most 520 kits is new technology using different o-ring designs that prolong chain life.
emt803 wrote:Will the strain on the chain going around a 14 tooth front sprocket be just as tough on a 530 chain as a 520?
Yes, the tighter radius is the reason why. I really wouldn't worry about it though. The bigger issue with chain wear is improper maintenance. Most people don't use the proper lube or regularly.

There is another sprocket alternative - Supersprox. They meshed the weight savings of aluminum with the durability of steel. (http://www.supersproxusa.com/)

Re: Commuting and 520 Quick Accel Conversion

Posted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 6:18 pm
by emt803
As far as lube and frequency, I lube it up after every ride. If the bikes lucky, maybe her chain gets a squirt or two while I'm at it. Haha, I'm sure that jokes been done a million times. I do actually use PJ1 after every ride that could possibly warm the chain up a little bit so I use it A LOT (probably a little too much actually if my rear rim is any indication of too much). I get a little lazy with the thorough cleaning, but as much as I HAVE TO ride on sand and clay it's an unwinnable battle. Being in S.C., the chain actually gets very clean from the rain I inevitably have to ride in once or twice a week. I definetly lube after that, chain warm or not. I've noticed much smoother riding from obsessive lubing alone.

I'm going to look into keeping the front stock and teething the rear. Never really considered that even after looking through a ton of ratio charts for the FZR. Anyone else have any opinions/ experience using 14/47 or 15/49 chains/ sprockets in 530?

Thanks for the link rage . Very interesting.

Re: Commuting and 520 Quick Accel Conversion

Posted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 8:29 pm
by blensen
I use a 14/47, 520 chain combo on my FZR and commute with it. Like you, much of my commute is between 55-80 and the bike does just fine with it. I never feel like I'm cruising at too high RPM, but I do get slightly worse fuel mileage than a friend of mine with stock gearing. It did make a quite noticeable difference in the bike's feel, but I attribute that more to the shorter final drive ratio than to the lighter weight components. my2cents

Re: Commuting and 520 Quick Accel Conversion

Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 10:49 am
by emt803
blensen wrote:I use a 14/47, 520 chain combo on my FZR and commute with it. Like you, much of my commute is between 55-80 and the bike does just fine with it. I never feel like I'm cruising at too high RPM, but I do get slightly worse fuel mileage than a friend of mine with stock gearing. It did make a quite noticeable difference in the bike's feel, but I attribute that more to the shorter final drive ratio than to the lighter weight components. my2cents
Can you describe the "feel" that she has now since doing the conversion? Lower gears smoother? Since determining gas mileage is sort an approximation of sorts (at least for me it is) I am assuming that the difference, as compared to your friends stock sprockets, is a good bit. Approximately how much? With gas prices and the miles I ride, it might be a pretty big determining factor. Was the change in "feel" an equal trade off for the reduced mpg?

Also, to anyone reading that has done the conversion, are there any specialty tools that I will need to DIY? I have all of the bare neccesities rachets,torque wrench etc, but I've read that the back wheel should be secured from turning with a piece of wood or something similiar as the front sprockets nut is turned. To keep it in neutral and NOT PUT IT IN GEAR TO BREAK IT LOOSE. A pipe connected to the ratchet to get enough leverage to break the nut may be required. And I'm guessing that I should buy a new lock nut instead of rebending the tabs. Is that all the additional items I might need? The directions on "sumofallparts" website has a basic walk through, but following directions is never my problem. I always inevitably run into a stubborn/ rounded/stripped screw or some other nuisance that leaves me temporarily unable to perform the necessary work. This is my only mode of transportation currently, so when I go to do this it'll be a "must complete in two days" event. Am I in over my head? Suggestions from the DIY'ers here would be much appreciated.