FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Well guys, been on here searching and learning from the ground up for a few months now . Updated my sig with the things that I've actually "done" with the exception of very mondain tasks ie: pulled all the body work for giggles and learnings sake, soldered loose electrical connections, checking/ topping fluids, chain adjusting/ lubing etc. If any of the vet's here want to help an eager DIY'er by taking a look at some of the potential problems I've noticed, I've provided my "diagnosis" and proposed solution so that you realize I am not lazily blanketing the board with unresearched problems for you guys to do the work for. I am genuinley seeking advice on if I should go the route proposed or if I am in over my head. I think/hope it's pretty basic. Please forgive my terminology.

1. Bike lurches and jerks in low gears at low RPM. If I am going through a reduced speedzone in town (around 35-45 mph), it "feels" and sounds much smoother to be in a lower gear constantly accelerating (raising RPM) to maintain desired speed rather than being in the next higher gear coasting at the same speed but in a lower RPM range. I hope that makes sense, if not feel free to ask for better explanation. Basically, any lower gear being used at under 5k RPM is less enjoyable, clanky and jerky causing me to prefer riding around with the engine constantly screaming like "one of those guys". It just doesn't feel right. It also makes a rhythmic "whirring" noise especially at low speed ONLY under throttle (if the chain isn't moving, noise gradually subsides). It feels like there is a correlation with the noise and the jerkiness in lower gears, and in higher gears/speeds the jerking lessens A LOT and noise is still slightly present although at a higher pitch and faster speed. When I tightened my chain for the first time, I noted a decent "tight spot" in a small area of the chain, and found a single kinked link that I could bend straight by hand, but returns to kinked position after a ride irregardless. Haven't looked at front sproket yet (don't flame me for this. Honestly haven't had the time in between researching and fixing everything else haha), but rear sprocket is starting to get worn SOME.
MY SOLUTION: Replace the chain and sprockets. It's definetly in need of a chain right, why not change the sprokets to? Researching a 520 conversion, but am undecided and will do a seperate thread on that. I figured that replacing the chain and sprockets and watching them both wear from new would help my observation skills in the future, plus it's what most seem to recommend on here as well.

2. Rear brake has a slow fluid leak. Just noticed this a few days ago actually, or I would of already fixed it. Traced the line from the calipers back to the container you check the level for the rear brake fluid under the seat after having to refill for the second time in a month. I had been using the back brakes a lot when I first began learning and thought that maybe using them less would slow the leak, but I don't think that it's mattered either way. Since filling to proper level a month ago, I am now noticing the clean brake fluid slowly collecting on top of the fender directly underneath the container. Not tons of fluid, but enough that when the bike is kick standed, it will drip a drop or two from being leaned. Its not getting on any paint that I've noticed yet and I hope that it's not coming out and going under my tire while riding. Needs to be fixed either way. Only other observations were that the inner plastic ring that sits underneath the cap isnt connected to the cap and I am not seeing any rubber seals. I DO NOT see any fluid running down the actual line AT ALL leading me to believe it is coming out from under the cap.
MY SOLUTION: Pretty simple, start with replacing the cap or inner cap/ seal. While I am at it, unbolt the cylinder and inspect the bottom where the line connects and make sure it's not coming from there. After refilling, pump the back brakes and see if it is spurting out anywhere under the pressure. Kosher or am I missing something?

3. This is my first bike and unfortunetly she has been dropped a few times, but never actually moving haha. Seriously though, I always fell from a stop. By a few times I mean 3 or 4 with me being able to support her most of the way to the ground when I realized I was going down.... except for the last fall. The fall that broke my foot and required me to bend the left peg back out due to the chain buzzing it in lower gears. I fixed that little annoyance, but am now noticing that there is a VERY SLOW, SMALL drip of a leak that is coming out from where the shift lever goes into the bike. The fluid appears to be oil, but is a lot darker than the new oil I recently put in. I've read that this "shifter rod" (I think) has been known to break and there was plenty of force in the fall to accomodate that. Hopefully it's something like a seal.
MY SOLUTION: I don't really have a solution actually. Drain the oil, open her up and look around right? Take pics, post and wait? I've read something about this shift lever breaking and having to remove the broken pieces with a magnet I think? Sounds like a crappy job to do. Maybe it could be something easy since the shifter still works as well as always. I understand that a step-by-step tutorial would be asking a bit much, but is this problem one that I can just keep an eye on and go easy on the lever in the meantime? Or is the potential damage from it breaking worth immediate investigation?

If nothing else, this thread could possibly help other members out there that are new so please BE NICE haha.

emt803 wrote:1. Bike lurches and jerks in low gears at low RPM. If I am going through a reduced speedzone in town (around 35-45 mph), it "feels" and sounds much smoother to be in a lower gear constantly accelerating (raising RPM) to maintain desired speed rather than being in the next higher gear coasting at the same speed but in a lower RPM range.

This is very common for all sport bikes, especially for carbed bikes. They like high RPMs...

Sounds like your chain is worn out. If it breaks, it can potentially cripple your bike permanently AND severely hurt you in the process.

emt803 wrote:2. Rear brake has a slow fluid leak. Just noticed this a few days ago actually, or I would of already fixed it. Traced the line from the calipers back to the container you check the level for the rear brake fluid under the seat after having to refill for the second time in a month. I had been using the back brakes a lot when I first began learning and thought that maybe using them less would slow the leak, but I don't think that it's mattered either way.

Even though most riders rarely use their rear brake, it is nice to have in emergencies when you really need to stop quickly. Check all hoses from the cup to the master cylinder. The hoses can dry-rot. The caps are also known to crack over time.

emt803 wrote:3. This is my first bike and unfortunetly she has been dropped a few times, but never actually moving haha. Seriously though, I always fell from a stop. By a few times I mean 3 or 4 with me being able to support her most of the way to the ground when I realized I was going down.... except for the last fall. The fall that broke my foot and required me to bend the left peg back out due to the chain buzzing it in lower gears.

First off, stop dropping the bike. Never heard of someone dropping it so many times. I'm certain that you have bent the shifter shaft and damaged the seal inside and that is causing the leak.

Thanx for the replies rageD. Not making excuses for the drops, but all (except 1) occured on loose dirt roads with the bike being supported on the way down for the most part. Not even sure if some would consider it a true "drop", but it was embarrrasing nonetheless. The one that bent the left foot peg happened on asphalt though and is more than likely the culprit. I'm assuming since their is a leak and seals, I will have to drain the oil before taking a look around. True or false?

emt803 wrote:I'm assuming since their is a leak and seals, I will have to drain the oil before taking a look around. True or false?

Make sure you know where the leak is before draining the oil. Once you have the leaked tracked down, then drain the oil and do the work.

Just keep some cardboard and towels handy for any oil spills...

ragedigital wrote:Make sure you know where the leak is before draining the oil. Once you have the leaked tracked down, then drain the oil and do the work.

Just keep some cardboard and towels handy for any oil spills...

To trace the leak, I would need to loosen the two pinch bolts that connect the shift rod (part that goes into the bike, under the front sprocket) to the rod that is connected to the foot lever correct, and then remove the front sprocket cover and look around? Am I way off base here?

emt803 wrote: To trace the leak, I would need to loosen the two pinch bolts that connect the shift rod (part that goes into the bike, under the front sprocket) to the rod that is connected to the foot lever correct, and then remove the front sprocket cover and look around? Am I way off base here?

Yep. There is no oil behind the sprocket cover, even though it has a gasket, so no worries about a major spill when you remove that cover.

Good luck!

Since I've got you here, is it difficult to pull the rod and possibly straighten it? If it is broken, would pulling it to inspect it be the end of driving her until a new part is on hand. If it is relatively inexpensive, I could go ahead and have the part on hand or go ahead and replace it if bent. I think I've read about people having to use a magnet or something to get the broke piece out (and possibly a "ball" on it's end, I could be confusing this with something else however). I'm not familiar with this sort of magnet making it difficult to do a specific search and begin pricing. And lastly, the gasket that you referred to, is this the "seal" that we were thinking might be the culprit? I'm assuming that there isn't a way to pop that back in place without draining everything.

You're confusing the shift rod with the clutch push rod.

Before you do anything - buy a Genuine Yamaha Service Manual - NOT a Haynes or Clymer version and NOT an owner's manual. And certainly don't buy a manual on disk... they're nice to have since you can print off what you need, but the scans are usually very poor and hard to read.

I would imagine that you'll have to pull the clutch cover and clutch assembly out to get the shift rod out since it is doing all of the action behind the clutch assembly.

Check out the parts fiche on RonAyers.com. They also have the lowest prices including shipping on the net.

ragedigital wrote:You're confusing the shift rod with the clutch push rod.

Before you do anything - buy a Genuine Yamaha Service Manual - NOT a Haynes or Clymer version and NOT an owner's manual. And certainly don't buy a manual on disk... they're nice to have since you can print off what you need, but the scans are usually very poor and hard to read.

I would imagine that you'll have to pull the clutch cover and clutch assembly out to get the shift rod out since it is doing all of the action behind the clutch assembly.

Check out the parts fiche on RonAyers.com. They also have the lowest prices including shipping on the net.

Will do... and thank you. It seems that everyone suggests the Clymer and Haynes for some reason, but you sound like you know what you're talking about so I will go with the Yamaha manual since, after all, it is their product. I'm assuming that the English translation isn't too terrible. I've had a lot of issues with Japanese to English translations in the past with product repair instructions that were TERRIBLE. Almost humorously terrible, but I already knew what I was doing and the jobs were simple enough that I didn't need the instructions anyway. Otherwise, I would of been rather upset and confused. Is this a job that I can excercise a little patience on beginning? The SLOW leaking oil shouldn't really mess anything in that area up terribly should it? I was thinking that I could wait until getting the manual and the new sprockets/ chain and do it all at once since I have to remove the sprocket cover for both.

It doesn't sound like you have major damage, so I would think you'd be fine until you get the manual and parts acquired. Don't forget that you'll need a new clutch cover gasket when you remove that side cover.

ragedigital wrote:It doesn't sound like you have major damage, so I would think you'd be fine until you get the manual and parts acquired. Don't forget that you'll need a new clutch cover gasket when you remove that side cover.

Damn, good save man. I was just about to go out there and take off the sprocket cover and look around a bit. But wait, you're not referring to the sproket cover with that last post are you?

No, the clutch cover is on the opposite side and the gasket will be destroyed when you remove that cover.

You can reuse the sprocket side gasket since it doesn't hold oil.

ragedigital wrote:No, the clutch cover is on the opposite side and the gasket will be destroyed when you remove that cover.

You can reuse the sprocket side gasket since it doesn't hold oil.

Makes sense, thank you. Although, it does appear that my sprocket gasket is currently holding oil quite effectively . I will hold any remaining questions until I begin the job or at least have a chance to look at the manual or we could be here all day with me dreaming up stuff. I appreciate your time bro. Keep an eye on my thread for "issues" upcoming on the topic please.

I would create a new thread concerning each issue that you're having and the process that you're going through for each. That way if someone in the future wants to know how to do it or get answers, they can simply find your specific thread.

Good luck!

Excellent suggestion... will do...