FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Trying to take off the back of the DAMN starter switch. There's not a f&#%ing phillips head screw on this bike that will come the hell off. The ones that aren't rounded by the jack ass that sold it to me WILL NOT COME OFF. Tried to take a break from the right hand controls and look at the left handed dimmer switch to clean...same damn deal. Thought I would take a break from all of it and was going to add some brake fluid to the front brakes because at least those screw were easy to access...WILL NOT F'ING BUDGE. Can I at least ATTEMPT to take off the R handle bar at the clip on where the two hex wrench bolts are, or will that mess something up. I'm running out of time before dark, have only basic tools, and am so frustrated I might have a coronary!!! I'm about to throw this bike off of a cliff so if anyone wants parts... Oh wait, I can't part it out, nothing will F'ING BUDGE....

Go down to the local auto store and get an impact driver (big fat screwdriver that you smack with a ball peen hammer); if this doesn't loosen the stuck screws nothing will. Pick up some fine valve lapping paste while you're at it; dabbing a little of this on the driver tip will allow better traction. A little goes a long way; the teeny can I bought lasted the better part of a decade before it separated and started to rust...

You do know the whole righty tighty, lefty loosey thing right? I fail to believe all those things are stuck solid. I've owned two 13+ year old bikes now and you really have to use the right size and shape bit to make sure things don't round out

Nah, I've seen some seriously stuck screws. When the moron PO did a half-hearted, half-assed job and the screw heads are already half-stripped, you're halfway to drilling them out...

you could try cutting a new 'slot' with a dremel type tool then using a larger screwdriver or impact driver.
Another way might be to try drifting the screw around with an old screw driver and hammer, had to do this a few times as the oem screws seem to be made of cheese!

Thanx all for some really good responses....as a little "rant" thread conclusion of sorts, a mechanic friend suggested "Penetrene" and also using a soldering iron to apply heat. And yes, I have heard the "righty tighty" saying. Its got me out of a few jams actually, but be aware, there are some screws and bolts that don't follow this principle. These weren't examples of this though. Getting the clip on off worked wonders, kind of...long story. The problem was PO + don't give a shit + cheap screws = rant post.
Thanx to all you guys. Your the best

emt803 wrote:Thanx all for some really good responses....as a little "rant" thread conclusion of sorts, a mechanic friend suggested "Penetrene" and also using a soldering iron to apply heat. And yes, I have heard the "righty tighty" saying. Its got me out of a few jams actually, but be aware, there are some screws and bolts that don't follow this principle. These weren't examples of this though. Getting the clip on off worked wonders, kind of...long story. The problem was PO + don't give a shit + cheap screws = rant post.
Thanx to all you guys. Your the best

E,
do yourself a favour,
a} buy stainless steel socket cap screws and replace EVERYTHING in sight
b} buy a tub of Copperslip.

Copperslip will stop the inter-metal corrosion between alloy case material & the stainless steel bolts that will lead to stuck bolts too if you forget. The one consolation is an Allen key either on an impact form or long enough will move just about anything worthy of movement.

As always, thank you George. As a side note on hex nuts, I went down to Lowe's the other day to look for the Allen screws that go around the gas cap and found the exact ones used on the bike for cheap. You could get them in silver and black. I think they were 1.0 x something. The black actually looks good around the tank on a black bike. I was just happy they had metric there. I hate the system we use here in the states. Those were all a little off. I wasn't able to find anything close to fairing screws unfortunetly.

emt803 wrote:As always, thank you George. As a side note on hex nuts, I went down to Lowe's the other day to look for the Allen screws that go around the gas cap and found the exact ones used on the bike for cheap. You could get them in silver and black. I think they were 1.0 x something. The black actually looks good around the tank on a black bike. I was just happy they had metric there. I hate the system we use here in the states. Those were all a little off. I wasn't able to find anything close to fairing screws unfortunetly.

E,
the tank screws are 6mm * 1mm pitch if memory serves. There are people on the net that sell screen metric screw kits & even complete engine kits in s/steel & standard steel black finishes.

i did all the engine bolts in stainless on two fzr400's for 14quid, just takes a bit of patience to find out how many of each you need then odering them from people who offer free postage! even got a few spares too! but def. try to replace with stainless allen head and coppaslip 'em. Saves so much pain in the long run!

taggy wrote:i did all the engine bolts in stainless on two fzr400's for 14quid, just takes a bit of patience to find out how many of each you need then odering them from people who offer free postage! even got a few spares too! but def. try to replace with stainless allen head and coppaslip 'em. Saves so much pain in the long run!

Taggy,
Yeh kits can come quite cheap but I tend to have a stock box from the "old days" of the workshop so I order mine thro a local nuts bolts house CWW in Shepherds Bush. I put an order thro day before and P/U next day.

The other thing is I can be sure that they are true austentetic stainless i.e. they are truly stainless like surgical tools (they are not effected by magnets is a quick test if memory serves)

taggy wrote:you could try cutting a new 'slot' with a dremel type tool then using a larger screwdriver or impact driver.
Another way might be to try drifting the screw around with an old screw driver and hammer, had to do this a few times as the oem screws seem to be made of cheese!

Excellent suggestion. Just wanted to add this if anyone doesn't want to invest in a dremel and is reading this. Had a friend take a hacksaw blade and carefully cut a flat head accepting slot in an EXTREMELY corroded screw on the left switch housing. After a two day soak in WD-40, new slot in screw, BOOM! Access to the switch and the problem. I must admit, when he approached the handle bars with a hack saw I started getting nervous, but the joy felt when that bastard finally started turning was well worth it. Thanx all. Problem solved again.....

EMT,
just be sure to use a good anti-seize compound when you put the new screws in (copperslip is my Favourite but to each his own )

Will do... Thanx for your time George and all....