FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Hey, I haven't been here in a while but come here all the time to read up on mods and stuff. Anyway, I know people on here like to drop yzf engines in there fzr. I'm not looking to do that but go naked with my kat. I got it torn down to the frame and thinking real hard about going naked but the air ram is holding me back. So my question is, has anyone gotting around the air ram. I figure that I'll lose some HP but if I can keep a smooth power band I'll just gear it up. Right now I'm running 5 dgree advance, crazy loud chopped D&D and config 10 jet kit and I already have to mess with the jets anyway. I read about there being a dead spot around 4k to 6k rpms but hoppen I can just screw with the carbs.
If anyone can give me any input or point me in a drection it would be great and thanks.

I ran a YZF600 engine without the ram air. I used a stock FZR airbox.

Far as I remember you'll need a carb set from the 95-96 fox eye models as they didn't have ram air.

I've read reports (on the YZF600R board) of streetfighters dropping down one main jet size (I think down from stock 152 to a150) to run the airbox minus ram-air with good results. Typical Config 10 kits call for a155 main jet with an aftermarket pipe, so that should give you some point of reference.

I ran the 95-96 YZF600 air box on mine. You have to cut the box up a little bit to fit it into the frame, but all you have to do is to use "Duck Tape" to seal it back up. Worked very well for me. I did not have any dead spots in it once I got the jetting figured out. And you won't miss any HP. If you do your only talking about 3hp anyways.

Just make sure you use the one way air valve that runs from the carbs. It would typically be plumped in from the ram air collector directly to the carbs. My experience is that it was needed. When removed, the bike ran a little worst. But that may have been jet tuning more than anything.

sandards yzf600 jets are a 155s from memory. i think i ended up going down to 118s when i had my bike running with the standard fzr600 airbox. When you rejet do the main jet first and make sure this is correct before you change the needle or other settings.

since you are dropping air quantity & velocity you can drop your main jets a size and work from that as mentioned by another poster leave the start & needle alone until you have the bike running at the top end well.