FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Ok guy's I just put pods on my bike and I know that there is some tunning required, I have a hunch what the problem is but before I go tearing into the carbs I want to confirm.

My Fizzer is stock (except pods) and I wanted to try them because I am already at 4500 FT and I know that I am running rich from the color of the plugs and just the way it runs.

I installed the pods last night and rode the bike to work today, I noticed that the bike stumbles noticeably between 7.5 and 8.5K pulls like a BANSHEE before and after that RPM range.

My Dirt bike experience tells me that this is most likely a needle jet that needs adjustment.

Thoughts on this?

Thanks
Scott

You already answered your own question.

Sweek... I was looking for a confirmation on this assessment more or less and maybe advice if it is or is not the needle's not a lot of experience with road bikes this is my first "project" bike.

Thanks
Scott

89FIZZER wrote:My Dirt bike experience tells me that this is most likely a needle jet that needs adjustment.

I think Sweekster was telling you that adjusting the jet needle is correct. I would lean it out by allowing the needle to go into the emulsion tube further.

However, since you probably don't have Jet Kits installed, you'll have to order a complete set to get an adjustable needle for each carb.

Yeah ... I think the jet kits at over $100.00 bucks are a total and complete RIP off but what do you do? I mean I can go to the dealer and get an over priced mukuni jet for $8.00 each and a needle is considerably more ...

GRRR anyone got a jet kit they want to sell?

Thanks
Scott

89FIZZER wrote:but what do you do?

You buy the Jet Kit and get rid of those damn pods. I tore my pods off, put the stock box back on with a K&N filter, jumped the main jets up a couple steps and my bike ran better than ever.

But I'm in St. Louis, so you're situation might be different. DynoJet sell High Altitude Jet Kits for the FZR.

Yeah that's what I was trying to say. You have not needed to switch to pods-just smaller jets and adjustable needles. Suffice to say, pods and high altitudes can be done. MrFreeze is in Denver and runs his FZR600 hybrid with pods and the correct jet sizes and his bike does fine.

Yeah, the pods I got for a STEAL so I thought I would give them a shot.... $25.00 so hey and making the bike breathe better (ANY BIKE) helps out the most.

I do also LOVE the sound that they produce, I got the PODS with a complete valve train so shipping was included for the $25.00. The valves on the bike currently are about shot (valve guides ect). I would like to see if I can tune the PODS correctly and do a few more mods, like I said it SCREAMS above the dead spot and below it.

Thanks
Scott

89FIZZER wrote:$25.00 so hey and making the bike breathe better (ANY BIKE) helps out the most.

$25-30 is a fairly typical price for 4 of them.

Just making a bike breathe better doesn't equate to better all-around performance, especially if it is ridden on the street.

Interesting thing happened bike is running better as the day warms up, it started at 37 degrees on my way into work now it's about 60 went to lunch and noticed that the hesitation is becoming less.

As the Air warms up there is less oxygen so it makes the bike run a bit more rich. So I think I will swap back to my air box till next summer and work on the jetting then.

Thanks
Scott

89FIZZER wrote:Interesting thing happened bike is running better as the day warms up, it started at 37 degrees on my way into work now it's about 60 went to lunch and noticed that the hesitation is becoming less.

As the Air warms up there is less oxygen so it makes the bike run a bit more rich. So I think I will swap back to my air box till next summer and work on the jetting then.

Thanks
Scott

Scott,
what everyone seems to forget is that the carb rubbers to the air box are the major part of the carbs working ability.
If you remove them & just stuff the pods on you have negated half the darn carbs working bits.

What you do is go down to the local shop that sells plumbing supplies amd buy about 2ft of plastic pipe that is either the same size or slightly smaller than the carbs mouth (ie the same internal diameter the carb rubbers are )

What you do is slide the pipe inside the rubbers and cut the pipe say 3/4" longer put the rubber back on the carb and put the pod onto the exposed bit of plastic tube. Now the pods will be at the right length away from the butterfly and you tuning will almost be spot on again.

I have this on all my bikes that run pods, the only picture i have (the bikes are 4080 miles away so no new pics anytime soon:-{{{) is:-
http://www.saltmine.org.uk/pics/bs17.jpg

You can see the grey plastic waste pipe between the carbs & the pods (hidden by the side fairing)

I run pods and Im in Denver(5800ft), but ride the mountains up to 10-12kft occasionally too. I found that a stage 3 jet kit was not worth the money as a whole. I used the needles out of the kit and that was it. I ended up buying new jets from the local dealer(112.5 mains) instead of the 115(smallest with the FP stg 3) and keeping the stock pilot jets. Now, at sea level, my bike is happy with a 117.5 main. It took quite a bit of tweaking on my bike to get it right, but once I did, holy crap, it screams. The only issues I ever had with it being temperamental because of the pods was on cold humid days, and once it warmed up it was fine. And even then, it just gave me the occasional problem starting under those conditions. Once it does, its good to go.

Now that ive got the carbs right, it runs damn good at the higher altitudes as well, although it does have the occasional stumble at WOT at the higher reaches.

Scott
Something else you may want to look @ as Y-Geo mentioned

yamaha_george wrote: what everyone seems to forget is that the carb rubbers to the air box are the major part of the carbs working ability.
If you remove them & just stuff the pods on you have negated half the darn carbs working bits.

Geo even has that in the WIKI

http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=pod-tuning

Good Luck
Mal.

mawler wrote:Scott
Something else you may want to look @ as Y-Geo mentioned

yamaha_george wrote: what everyone seems to forget is that the carb rubbers to the air box are the major part of the carbs working ability.
If you remove them & just stuff the pods on you have negated half the darn carbs working bits.

Geo even has that in the WIKI

http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=pod-tuning

Good Luck
Mal.

Hmm deja vu seems to happen a lot lately

Hahaha. I'm glad I read the other posts first because I was gonna pop in here and post it tooo, but yeah y- geo has it listed ...