FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

OK so I get down to the electrical and I have a rectifier but it is not the original one and I have no clue what wires are what.

S question if what is a cheap rectifier that will work and hopefully work better than stock.

If the stock YZF600r Rectifier is OK then I will just get on of eBay unless some one her has one up for sale????????

I just bought a YZF 600 for my 95, and I was told that as long as you have one with the fins like the yzf it will fit nicely, if it's an older one like the 94 and older there is some modification you have to do. And there is a link on the main page that gives a pretty good description about that.

http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=r ... conversion

There is a guy on the fzrarchives that is selling a brand new fzr vr in the box, he told me 45, but I just bought a salvage YZF off of ebay for 12 dollars. His name is shift96.

Chris.

China_Racer_1 wrote:OK so I get down to the electrical and I have a rectifier but it is not the original one and I have no clue what wires are what.

S question if what is a cheap rectifier that will work and hopefully work better than stock.

If the stock YZF600r Rectifier is OK then I will just get on of eBay unless some one her has one up for sale????????

Steve,
not sure what you are asking. If it is YZF VR on FZR yes the FZR old style like sardine can full of black rubber was 5 pin and the newer YZF is 6 pin (used on R1 & R6 as well) all mounted in a cast finned box

There is somewhere in the wiki an ohm read out for each of the pins. usually 3 allong the bottom edge are the for the input and the two top outer ones are the battery etc. side leads . Again there are pictures in the WIKI of the layout

The one I got with the rig looks like this.... which looks pretty far off what a stock or modern VR should look like huh?

I have no clue how to cross check the wires on this. So maybe I will just go buy a used one off flea bay.

As far as a cooling issue. I think got that covered.

The body work I have is off a Kawi zx600rr and has a big hole in the front for the venting system which I will not use so I will mount it in the front of the bike so the airflow jams across it and keeps it as cool as possible. I saw a Suzuki that had this done as well and the owner said the VR gave him mo problems in the high heat during races.

Not to change the subject much but anyone got a good idea what plugs I might need to be using.

I got NGK available so I need an NGK plug. I got numbers form the manual but I was thinking with the engine mods I might need to put something else in there.
I got accell coils as well.

Any input?

Thanks
steve

Steve,
I would say three yellow wires go to the alternator , red / black are fairly obvious, green measure what appears (if any thing , probably another ground )
as for plugs I use precious metal fine point plugs for racing I keep a set either side of standard depending on air temp & length of race.

That looks like an old Suzuki unit. Should be fine in itself.

Yeah, the trio of yellow connect to the three phase legs of the alternator. The red is charging output to battery+. The black is ground to chassis. The green is either accessory output (12v+) or electronics ground (ground wiring point).

The green can be determined last in a running test with a test light.


You can get OEM style connectors:

http://street.parts-unlimited.com/4/68/7865274

OK Dumb question but if I chose not to use the Voltage regulator would I not just have made the bike Constant loss?

I got 2 new batteries and another one that a year old but still working fine for this bike

I can also take off some parts on the left side cover and maybe actually be able to use teh case guard I have for that side.

Locally its a 15 minute sprint race. at the F-1 its a 30 minute session. I think I can run Constant loss with out much discomfort. I will just make sure my batteries are always charged up.

Does this sound do-able?

Oh FYI I started her up fir the first time ever since the build, Man what a sweet sound. She Rrrrred a bit, then we choked her and she sputtered and then that was it she was revving.

I have all the body work in place and will finish this bike before the weekend. I got little to do to her now. Just a few detail things I been putting off. New GP style loud as hell carbon can arrives on Friday as well. So I can detail the exhaust hanger now as well.

Only place to practice is at eh F-1 track before the race. i have no chance to set this bike up at the track I will be racing on in two weeks. So I will use the F-1 track to break the engine in.

I got a break in plan that I have proven and will stick with it.

Suspension will be an obvious issue. But there is a place on the F-1 track that is very much like most of the turns at the F-3 track. So I will set the bike up to hit that corner as best as I can and then just go with that. I have a single practice on race day morning for 15 minutes to warm up and do a double check and final adjustment to the suspension then its race time at 1:00PM.
Nothing like last minute. Dead line to enter s tomorrow. Got her running today I got two weeks to sort her out. Yeah I will be entering this race.

China_Racer_1 wrote:OK Dumb question but if I chose not to use the Voltage regulator would I not just have made the bike Constant loss?

Hey Steve,

I am by NO means a bike electrical expert (film lighting power is a different story ) but simply removing the VR/R does not make a total loss system. Total loss means you're running without the charging system. I don't know fully what gets taken off the bike. However, here is a quick link to get you started on understanding it:

http://www.fzrarchives.com/fzr400/FZR40 ... tions.html

Click on the "Can I run total loss on the bike?" link toward the right hand side.

I'm sure the other guys will pipe in with more details.

Brandon

Yeah, if you are gonna ditch the VR, you may as well ditch the stator coil too. If you do this make SURE the battery is FULLY charged before you go out to run for more than 20 minutes. High end misfire will be your first indicator of low voltage.

Remove the flywheel cover and remove the stator coil and pickup coil. Slit the plastic wire conduit and separate the pickup coil wires from the stator wires. Discard the stator and it's wires, remount the pickup -consider this: viewtopic.php?f=43&t=4303&p=47639&hilit ... nce#p47639

You can also shave the flywheel down while you are at it. The magnets coming out will lighten it considerably. You can shave/mill it down leaving just the timing bumps and enough material to handle the revs.