FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

I found a need air/fuel gauge at autozone.
that it would be great to mount up to show me what im running!
only problem is that the Fzr doesnt have a O2 sensor or anywhere to put them.

I was thinking about drill and tapping my exhaust at the mid-pipe to install an O2 sensor.

my question is...
Do you think this will work?





heres the gauge.


here is where the O2 sensor mounts on some cars

I thought about doing this myself.

I haven't done too much research into it though.

i dont know if a guage and a o2 sensor will work with out some type of computer in there im not sure but the newer r6 headers have o2 sensors maybe you can make one fit

well, theres onlly one way to find out!



oh yea, and I always wondered this...what the heck are those bolts on each pipe on the headers???

did they need a hole there during manufacturing and just pluged them with a bold?

not sure if they are on my r6 headers...i know they were on my old fzr headers though

the best thing to do would be to buy 5 o2 sensor "bungs" and 4 o2 sensor "plugs" and weld one about 8 inches away from the head on each header pipe, and then weld one on the pipe after the header collector.
Then buy a " wideband" A/F sensor setup , you only need 1 sensor because you would actually just move it from header to header to adjust your'e carbs and then when you are done you can mount it in the sensor bung after the header collector for real-time A/F monitoring, " not adjusting" .

Mod, I thought of that as well, and am greatly considering it, i will do that if I can get the O2 sensors for cheap.
iv got a buddy that can weld up the bungs as well.

The stock welded in bungs are for a) drainage and b) for afr tuning/EPA compliance testing.

The gauge you showed Shred, WON'T work on a wideband O2 sensor. (wideband sensors will usually have four or more leads).

Those gauges are usually set up for two wire (non wide-band 02 sensors).

No, Haro, no computer required. It is just a voltage signal. You could use a Multimeter to read the sensor if you wished...in fact, that is how most auto mechanics diag the sensors on pre OBD vehicles-or just to double check the onboard computer's diagnosis.

Shred, you can get new narrow band sensors for fairly cheap..new wideband sensors are in the hundreds of dollars range....but you should buy BOOTS FIRST.

reelrazor wrote:The stock welded in bungs are for a) drainage and b) for afr tuning/EPA compliance testing.

The gauge you showed Shred, WON'T work on a wideband O2 sensor. (wideband sensors will usually have four or more leads).

Those gauges are usually set up for two wire (non wide-band 02 sensors).

No, Haro, no computer required. It is just a voltage signal. You could use a Multimeter to read the sensor if you wished...in fact, that is how most auto mechanics diag the sensors on pre OBD vehicles-or just to double check the onboard computer's diagnosis.

Shred, you can get new narrow band sensors for fairly cheap..new wideband sensors are in the hundreds of dollars range....but you should buy BOOTS FIRST.

, on that allready reel.

and that gauge has four wires. what do the other two go to? Battery and ground Im assuming?

shredex wrote:, on that allready reel.

and that gauge has four wires. what do the other two go to? Battery and ground Im assuming?

Good assumption.

Gotta power the lights in the gauge. The O2 sensor output will be in the 250-800millivolt range.


Myself, if I was gonna hook one of those up (and I've thought about it but decided unnecessary, talked to my automotive electronics specialist/ex- Roush Racing fuel injection and instrumentation expert friend who says you need to pay HUNDREDS of dollars to get an accurate gauge-the cheap dash mount units will lag by many seconds behind the mix ) I would go with one bung, post-collector and make collective adjustments to the bank of carbs after riding and holding 'x'revs/'x' throttle position against a load (uphill-or burn-out) and changing that circuit and re-testing.

Keep in mind that you have to actually load the engine to get any kind of accuracy at the gauge.

hi,
Seem to remeber that a German mag published a DIY LED guage that worked with 4 sensors & I think I posted the link way back last fall

I played around with a narrowband sensor and a multimeter for a while gives quite good ball park tuning for full throttle running. 2, 3 and 4 wire 02 sensors are all narrowband(3 and 4 wire incorporate a heater element), it's the 5 and 6 wire ones that are wideband. Narrow band sensor do what they are called they basically work over a small range and are either rich or lean although it's hard to determine how rich or lean with one.

Narrow band sensors can be picked up from wreckers for nothing, wideband sensors cost a little more (~$60 new). I think that the wideband sensor works by having 5V applied to them and it's the return voltage that determines how rich or lean they are.

In the end I got an innovate wideband tuner for about $250 on eBay, these things are really the way to go. You can hook up your rpm and log runs with them to determine exactly where the problem is.

If you have cv carbs and they are dialed in well it should read ideal the whole time??????????????
If this is the case then why fit the gauge?you could draw one on cardboard for free(no pick up sensors required).

Are you expecting it to move around alot and if so wouldnt that mean the carbs are jetted wrong.

mossy1200 wrote:If you have cv carbs and they are dialed in well it should read ideal the whole time??????????????
If this is the case then why fit the gauge?you could draw one on cardboard for free(no pick up sensors required).

Are you expecting it to move around alot and if so wouldnt that mean the carbs are jetted wrong.

Mossy,
Not all of us have a Dyno Tech as a mate or have deep deep pockets for return trips to the dyno & the workshop to tear our carbs apart.

One sensor is just loads of work & a tad futile because you get one bore working correctly for those conditions and then go on and tune the next bore that now works well but in fact the first bore is no longer correct as the load on the bore has changed as the second bore is not "lagging" or "pulling" this means that bores no 3 & 4 will make the error worse so you back to bore 1.

The idea of 4 -5 sensors is at least a better compromise as you see what is going on where on all the bores so you get to know what to richen & what to lean out where and all this is far easier if you have a data logger.
Fine for a team or a group of mates to divvy up the cost between them but for one guy how many times will he use the rig 2-3 in the life of the bike unless you race like you then may be twice a season

If you are fairly clued up that will lessen the amount of tearing down you will do, do not forget every time you alter some thing on a carb you will alter the synch slightly just to add spice to your job.

You could of course send it out to a Tuner and ask him to "sort" it trouble is you have no idea what he actually did rather what he said he did if any thing much .

yamaha_george wrote:

mossy1200 wrote:If you have cv carbs and they are dialed in well it should read ideal the whole time??????????????
If this is the case then why fit the gauge?you could draw one on cardboard for free(no pick up sensors required).

Are you expecting it to move around alot and if so wouldnt that mean the carbs are jetted wrong.

Mossy,
Not all of us have a Dyno Tech as a mate or have deep deep pockets for return trips to the dyno & the workshop to tear our carbs apart.

One sensor is just loads of work & a tad futile because you get one bore working correctly for those conditions and then go on and tune the next bore that now works well but in fact the first bore is no longer correct as the load on the bore has changed as the second bore is not "lagging" or "pulling" this means that bores no 3 & 4 will make the error worse so you back to bore 1.

The idea of 4 -5 sensors is at least a better compromise as you see what is going on where on all the bores so you get to know what to richen & what to lean out where and all this is far easier if you have a data logger.
Fine for a team or a group of mates to divvy up the cost between them but for one guy how many times will he use the rig 2-3 in the life of the bike unless you race like you then may be twice a season

If you are fairly clued up that will lessen the amount of tearing down you will do, do not forget every time you alter some thing on a carb you will alter the synch slightly just to add spice to your job.

You could of course send it out to a Tuner and ask him to "sort" it trouble is you have no idea what he actually did rather what he said he did if any thing much .

i guess im lucky as they let me alter mine and then just keep running it through to pick the changes.after all we are seeking fractions of torque and hp.
last time on the dyno we did 26 runs to get the results we wanted with recordings of where we plan to change it with the new slides etc.
Im sure that no one normally gets that kind of runs.It would be beyond most peoples pockets if the mechanic was doing the changes and the dyno runs.

mossy1200 wrote: i guess im lucky as they let me alter mine and then just keep running it through to pick the changes.after all we are seeking fractions of torque and hp.
last time on the dyno we did 26 runs to get the results we wanted with recordings of where we plan to change it with the new slides etc.
Im sure that no one normally gets that kind of runs.It would be beyond most peoples pockets if the mechanic was doing the changes and the dyno runs.

Mossy,
You are VERY lucky 26 runs even at 40 quid each =1040 UKpounds =2605NZ Dollars and that is with out the cost of the mechanic doing carb bits.
If doing it your self the amount of jet stock would be fairly expensive probably well in excess of 20 UKP per set of mains, do not talk about needle jets probably 100 a set