FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Iv noticed that iv got rust inside of my gas tank, and I was wondering if there is any home remedies to clean the rust out...
please post any cheap efficient ways to cleaning the inside of a gas tank....

Well, you could run it down so that you only have a few ounces of fuel and then remove it and put a handful of clean bolts, nuts and washers in it and shake it around like a madman and then rinse the bejeezus out of it. After that, soak the inside down with silicone spray.

Or you could Kreem it.

reelrazor wrote:... put a handful of clean bolts, nuts and washers in it and shake it around like a madman and then rinse the bejeezus out of it...

That sounds like fun!

They make a fuel tank cleaner and sealer and works really well. Its called Kreem. Its a 2 part cleaner and sealer.

Or you could buy my already Kreemed fuel tank.
It's just sitting, collecting dust.

Shredex, here's my suggestion for the good of society. Do not use Kreem or any Kreemed tank. I have personally witnessed some one pulling chunks of a Kreem sealer out of his tank after it delaminated and choked off his fuel supply. Granted I have no idea how he prepped his tank but that sight was enough for me. I use POR 15 fuel tank sealer. This is a 3 part system that you buy as a kit for about $45. It has everything you will need to clean and prep the metal prior to sealing as well as the sealer. As I restore vintage motorcycles whose parts are as rare as rocking horse poop or hen's teeth I need solutions that work for fuel tank preservation. Follow their directions to a T. The only suggestion that I would give is to add some nuts and bolts or a hunk of chain to the tank during the cleaning process to more aggressively lossen any rust scale. Additionally, you will need some type of plugs for the petcock and filler hole which ever product you use. Again my suggestionis to take your tank to the hardware store and visit the plumbing section and look for drain service plugs of an appropriate diamter or simple rubber or cork stoppers. Here's an example of what I used.

Yeah i heard the POR-15 kit is pretty good. Too expensive for my blood. I say this is a great excuse to do the yzf tank swap!

megaloxana wrote:Yeah i heard the POR-15 kit is pretty good. Too expensive for my blood. I say this is a great excuse to do the yzf tank swap!

, im actually doing a 02-03 yzf R1 tank swap!

shredex wrote:

megaloxana wrote:Yeah i heard the POR-15 kit is pretty good. Too expensive for my blood. I say this is a great excuse to do the yzf tank swap!

, im actually doing a 02-03 yzf R1 tank swap!

Oh boy this old chestnut of rusty tanks.the advice to stay away from Krap sorry kreem is well founded more web traffic is created over its issues than any other topic on bike lists.

PQR is expensive but as M in KC says follow the rules it works.

However if you want cheap suggest you follow:-

http://www.saltmine.org.uk/kgb/faqindx.html

see the pdf on rust removal by electolysis (rust removal with a battery charger / car battery )

The basic ingredient is washing soda (ask yer mom) an old iron nail and abattery charger.

Theory bit:-#
Turns red iron oxide (active rust) into black inert iron oxide.

Did my Rd tanks back in '83 no problem since !!!! cost about 5c

thanks george!! thats awsome...washing soda??? Is that the same as baking soda??

why the heck dont they just make tanks out of aluminum! then we wouldnt have to deal with rust ever

shredex wrote:why the heck dont they just make tanks out of aluminum! then we wouldnt have to deal with rust ever

regulations regarding puncture-resistance/rupture.

shredex wrote:thanks george!! thats awsome...washing soda??? Is that the same as baking soda??

Shredex,
NOPE baking soda is sodium bi-carbonate, washing soda is sodium carbonate, ask you mom or grandma they used it for washing clothes before pre packaged soap powders which now contain God knows what.

George is right electorlysis can work wonders on rust. I've seen a few examples and wow! Only draw back is it has some safety risks in the hands of some. You need good ventilation, and time for the conversion process to run its course. But yes it can work marvelously. If you end up going this route please use caution.

And for the rest, keep your tanks as full as you can and run your bikes as often as you can even in the off-season especially for us in the colder climates. All fuel contains some amount of moisture. Any air gap in your fuel tank can allow for moisture/condensation to form and subsequently begin the oxidation process. So keep them full and use the fuel as often as you can.

M in KC wrote:George is right electorlysis can work wonders on rust. I've seen a few examples and wow! Only draw back is it has some safety risks in the hands of some. You need good ventilation, and time for the conversion process to run its course. But yes it can work marvelously. If you end up going this route please use caution.

And for the rest, keep your tanks as full as you can and run your bikes as often as you can even in the off-season especially for us in the colder climates. All fuel contains some amount of moisture. Any air gap in your fuel tank can allow for moisture/condensation to form and subsequently begin the oxidation process. So keep them full and use the fuel as often as you can.

Mark,
I am a little disturbed by your words of caution on electrolysis, apart from the care needed to operate a battery charger around liquids I see no problems unless you are thinking washing soda (sodium carbonate) is washing lye (which is extremely alkaline & caustic hence its common name of caustic soda )


It is washing soda sodium carbonate that makes up the solution for the conversion of red oxide into black inert iron oxide