FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

So i have this whole setup hopefully coming in this week .. my question is .. Does anyone have pics of their setup ??
Will the yzf resevoir clear my fairing stay? Will the lines be too short /long? pics pics and more pics and step by step process WOULD be lovely and GREATLY APPRECIATED >>!!!!!

YamahaGeorge has pics of his here
http://www.saltmine.org.uk/kgb/FZR.html

PIMPMYFZR wrote:So i have this whole setup hopefully coming in this week .. my question is .. Does anyone have pics of their setup ??
Will the yzf resevoir clear my fairing stay? Will the lines be too short /long? pics pics and more pics and step by step process WOULD be lovely and GREATLY APPRECIATED >>!!!!!

see:-
http://www.saltmine.org.uk/fzr/project-1.html

I have stock hoses and everything is perfect for the swap.

Psst... add some braided lines....

Yes, everything will clear, but the reservoir will get in the way of the gauges a little.

Who looks at the guages anyway?

You can see the placement in these shots:

It clears the fairing stay.

Whatever works!

Well after being bored as hell yesterday and sick of watching Fox News , i couldnt wait so i went into the garage and decided try to take off my brake system , first off with the upper fairing still on the bike its kind of a bitch to take apart the master cylinder and the Y part of brake lines thats connected triple .. after getting everything dissasembled without draining the master cylinder or lines it was a hassle getting the whole thing to slide down thruough the front end but i got it .. Now if only i can bleed these damn things .. im not getting no pressure what so ever out of these lines ..
but here is my new brakes and also my new pilot power front tire .. still thinkin where im going to mount the resevoir ..
Ive read all the write ups on bleeding and back bleeding and what not but i cant get no pressure from the lines ..wtf gives .. all my bolts r tight plenty of fluid , damn thing just doesnt wanna work ..

Loosen the banjo bolt on top of the caliper till fluid runs out of it. Do it on each side.

You might also want to pick up some speed bleeders. They are really nice!

I had a hard time manually bleeding my system. Then I got a numatic bleeder and did it in 4 minutes.

man this sucks I'd pay money right now to have my brakes bled ... its like 75 degrees outside and my bike sittin in the garage all broke down ! but im still at work yet so ill live i guess

so i get home from work , bleed the line , ok, start bleeding calipers , ok , after about 10 differnt times doing it about 20-40 times , im not building no pressure whatso ever in these god damn things ... wtf gives shouldnt be this god damn hard i see that when i pump it , pump it half way then open the screw then pump in all the way , close the screw repeat over n over and nothing , can i just leave open the bleed screw and use somthing to suck or pull out the oil

do they sell numatic bleeders at auto parts store or home depot ?

slayermd wrote:I had a hard time manually bleeding my system. Then I got a numatic bleeder and did it in 4 minutes.

HI,
I am guessing that you have just two lines on this set up straight to the MC.
Let the system settle 3-4 hours and undo the bolt at the MC, DO NOT TOUCH the lever,
now tighten it back, there should be some pressure not alot but some, squeeze the lever tie it up in FULL pull, now slowly open the top banjo again,it will squirt so rag handy to save the paint job..Tighten it back,untie the lever and try again. should have somemore pressure.

If there is a splitter block that will need turning so the feed to the MC is top most to let the air in the system rise (tap the sucker to make sure) to the MC bolt. do as above.

People make such a drama out of this.
rules to follow:-

the MC bolt should be one with a bleed nipple on it

never pump the lever fast or the air gets splintered into fine bubbles and make a harder bleed.

air /gas rises in liquids if you screw up let it sit and tap the caliper/ splitters/ MC to persuad any sticking bubble (like the ones on yer beer glass ) to rise

from scratch a brake job is 30-40mins including strip out old put in new and fill brand new fluids.
However I use bleed tubes from the caliper nipples into old fluid as air trap removers.

PIMPMYFZR wrote:so i get home from work , bleed the line , ok, start bleeding calipers , ok , after about 10 differnt times doing it about 20-40 times , im not building no pressure whatso ever in these god damn things ... wtf gives shouldnt be this god damn hard i see that when i pump it , pump it half way then open the screw then pump in all the way , close the screw repeat over n over and nothing , can i just leave open the bleed screw and use somthing to suck or pull out the oil

do they sell numatic bleeders at auto parts store or home depot ?

I got mine at Harbor Freight. I think Ive seen them at Checker/Auto Zone/NAPA.

i went to auto zone and bought a vacumm pump , i gotta be the biggeest dumbass because i dont know how to work this damn thing its sucking out the fluid , but what gives ... whats the process or just pump the fuild and close the screwww , pump brakes and supposed to get stiff ?? this is bulshit man thing cost me 35 dollars ..