FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Hello I'm new to the page and have a few questions if anyone has an answer it would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 94 fzr 1000 that's been sitting for a lil over a year after I hit a deer. It still ran until it sat all winter. I've been working on it this summer and have ran into multiple problems.
It won't start unless choke is on, can't turn choke off or it dies. Changed spark plugs and found the 3rd one to be rusty. Very rusty. Replaced them all and cleaned carbs and it's still doing it. Moved on to put a new clutch in and now it will go into gear with out even touching the clutch. I can even roll it while in gear without touching the clutch. I'm stumped!! Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

k, the clutch cable will probably need adjusting.
To do this, slacken the adjuster on the left hand bar completely.
take your left fairing off.
on the front sprocket cover, there is a big rubber bung, pop that off with a flat head screwdriver.
behind that, you'll find a lock nut, and a bolt, undo the lock nut, lefty loosey, slacken the bolt off, lefty loosey again.
next, turn the bolt slowly to tighten up, when you feel resistance in the bolt, back it off half a turn.
HARD PART, keep the bolt where you set it, but tighten the lock nut up to hold it in place.

as for the carb issues. start simply. for the rev's to pick up, you need fuel. Is there fuel getting through? How much fuel is getting through?
have you tried to run the bike on an auxiliary fuel tank? first thing i'd look at is either fuel hose for kinks, or fuel filter for blockages.

for the 3rd plug. It sounds like there is moisture getting to it. you may want to give it a good coating of WD40/ACF-50, preferably the latter. Also copper slip the threads so that it comes out easy next time round.

I'm sure one of the more informed will be along shortly to give better advice, let us know how you get on

Pr1ngle wrote:k, the clutch cable will probably need adjusting.
To do this, slacken the adjuster on the left hand bar completely.
take your left fairing off.
on the front sprocket cover, there is a big rubber bung, pop that off with a flat head screwdriver.
behind that, you'll find a lock nut, and a bolt, undo the lock nut, lefty loosey, slacken the bolt off, lefty loosey again.
next, turn the bolt slowly to tighten up, when you feel resistance in the bolt, back it off half a turn.
HARD PART, keep the bolt where you set it, but tighten the lock nut up to hold it in place.

Good luck with that procedure on a hydraulic operated clutch.

Cassidy1989 wrote:Hello I'm new to the page and have a few questions if anyone has an answer it would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 94 fzr 1000 that's been sitting for a lil over a year after I hit a deer. It still ran until it sat all winter. I've been working on it this summer and have ran into multiple problems.
It won't start unless choke is on, can't turn choke off or it dies. Changed spark plugs and found the 3rd one to be rusty. Very rusty. Replaced them all and cleaned carbs and it's still doing it. Moved on to put a new clutch in and now it will go into gear with out even touching the clutch. I can even roll it while in gear without touching the clutch. I'm stumped!! Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

When you did the clutch or at any recent time have you had the sprocket cover off.

It is not unknown for owners to take the cover off, inadvertantely displace the clutch lever a few times (or if cover left off for a long period the clutch slave piston slides outward ) and when the cover is replaced the slave piston cannot return back enough and is already pushing the pushrod in...release bleed nipple to check.

When a 4 cylinder engine is stopped 2 cylinders are always up/ 2 down .
Depending on which exhaust valve is open...then one of those cylinders is always in a position where atmosphere can gain access via the open exhaust valve...hence a rusty plug and cylinder walls.
This is often why a good engine left over a period and not suitably mothballed/sealed develops low compression on one cylinder.

The reason why it wont run without choke is the pilot circuit is obstructed...jets/ passageways/ airways.
Carburettors require thorough and PROPER cleaning.

willandrip wrote:Good luck with that procedure on a hydraulic operated clutch.

Don't you have an adjusting screw on your banjo bolt?

Given the tiny PRECISION passages of the pilot jets, it's often quicker cheaper easier to simply replace them. It IS possible / practicable to gently rod-out a main jet with nylon filament (NOT metal!!), but the pilots are just to finicky.

Someone told me ;

The best way to clean pilot jets is with the high pressure gun on the airline.
This blows the jets out of your fingers,across the workshop, never to be found again.
The result is you are forced to buy new jets...which should have been done in the first instance .....

my head's in FZR 600 clutch mode as that's all i seem to be f*cking around with at the moment... apologies! :O