Charging system

[et_miller_87]

Just some inputs requested here. I'm pretty positive the stator is good but I question the regulator.
At normal idle the voltage reads just over 12 vdc. At revvs, I've seen it up t0 18 vdc. I'm thinking that regulator is toast. And yes, there was a battery installed and connected free of corrosion during time of test. Anyone agree/ disagree with my diagnosis? Why yes or no?

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[djalbin]

Which FZR and engine are you referring to? The FZR1000 charging voltage should be between 14.3V and 15.3V at 3K RPMs.
Check your voltage at 3K RPMs and if it's still over 15.3V (e.g. 18V) it's probably the voltage/rectifier.

But here's the measurements if you want to check your stator:
The stator coil resistance should be between 0.16 and 0.18 ohms at 68 degF (20 degC). The stator coil resistance is easy to measure by removing the generator cover and connecting the ohmmeter to the stator coils. Tester (+) lead goes on top left post, Tester (-) lead goes on top middle post for first stator measurement, Tester (-) lead goes on top right post for second stator measurement.
You can remove the brushes holder from the outside of the stator to inspect the brushes and spring. Brush length limit is 4.7 mm
To check the field coil (rotor) resistance ... with the brushes holder removed ... attach the ohmmeter (+) test lead to the rotor outer ring and the (-) tester lead attaches to the rotor inner ring. Resistance should be between 3.8 and 4.2 ohms at 68 degF (20 degC).
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[et_miller_87]

Which FZR and engine are you referring to? The FZR1000 charging voltage should be between 14.3V and 15.3V at 3K RPMs.
Check your voltage at 3K RPMs and if it's still over 15.3V (e.g. 18V) it's probably the voltage/rectifier.

But here's the measurements if you want to check your stator:
The stator coil resistance should be between 0.16 and 0.18 ohms at 68 degF (20 degC). The stator coil resistance is easy to measure by removing the generator cover and connecting the ohmmeter to the stator coils. Tester (+) lead goes on top left post, Tester (-) lead goes on top middle post for first stator measurement, Tester (-) lead goes on top right post for second stator measurement.
You can remove the brushes holder from the outside of the stator to inspect the brushes and spring. Brush length limit is 4.7 mm
To check the field coil (rotor) resistance ... with the brushes holder removed ... attach the ohmmeter (+) test lead to the rotor outer ring and the (-) tester lead attaches to the rotor inner ring. Resistance should be between 3.8 and 4.2 ohms at 68 degF (20 degC).
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I probably should of mentioned in the beginning that im an aviation electrician by trade. Helicopters and bikes are a little different when it comes to voltage rectifiers and regulators.

The 18 vdc was read at about 3200 rpms, and my mistake, this is the 600cc engine.

I appreciate the advice none the less! I'm pretty sure the stator is good as I'm reading upwards of 18. My experience on car batteries and charging systems tell me that that number is way high, but motorcycles are a different beast to me. So would you agree that the r/r is bad?

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[DonTZ125]

Yes, the VRR has failed high and is spit-roasting your electrical system. That lovely odour you're smelling is a combination of boiling electrolyte and magic smoke.

Park the bike until the VRR is replaced!

[et_miller_87]

No odors present. If youd been tagging along to some of my post, youd see that it's currently in pieces in my garage for a good overhaul. Check it out. I'm taking care of what I find wrong as I go. The bike hasn't really been ridden in a good 5 years.

But thanks for confirming my suspicions.

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[djalbin]

So would you agree that the r/r is bad?

Typically the voltage regulator/rectifier will go bad more often than the stator. Some bikes seem to be worse than others (e.g. 90's vintage Hondas). The voltage R/R is also cheaper and easier to replace.
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