FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Stumbled on this when looking into putting seafoam into the oil. I found this on another forum, its a response from a seafoam employee when asked about putting it in your oil
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Sea Foam is an OIL PRODUCT, not a chemical, so do not worry about any secondary affects.

Have you used Sea Foam in your fuel?, Read the attachments for more information.

If your bikes engine began to create enough residue to "STICK" part of your valve train, IT IS TIME TO GET THAT OLD OIL OUT OF THERE!

Yes, the Sea Foam cleans the old deteriorated oil back to liquid, but your crankcase oil will quickly make more residue, your oil has reached the end of its SERVICEABLE LIFE!

Change your oil, read the attachment I have given on CRANKCASE OIL, treat the NEW oil with Sea Foam at 1 1/2 ounces per quart of oil capacity, then MONITOR YOUR OIL and change it when it gets dirty.

Oil is still cheaper than an engine!

Thanks for using Sea Foam!

Attachments with the reply:

Attachment 1:

Sea Foam Motor Treatment used in Crankcase Oil
All Gasoline and Diesel, Rotary style engines

Sea Foam Motor Treatment is a Blended Petroleum Product, NOT A CHEMICAL and is widely used as an old oil residue cleaner and moisture drier in any oil crankcase.

Sea Foam Motor Treatment is most commonly used as a pre service, old oil residue re-liquefier / cleaner and moisture drier, and is also used as an after service additive. Sea Foam Motor Treatment does NOT add significantly to oil volume, so removing oil is NOT required for use, when used according to printed directions on the product container.

1. As a PRE SERVICE CLEANER for old oil residue, (sticky rings or valve train noise), pour 1 ½ ounces of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for EACH quart of crankcase oil capacity including filter. (Diesels use 1 pint Sea Foam to 4 gallons of oil, please.) Drive a MINIMUM of 30 minutes/miles, MAXIMUM 100 miles, and then do your oil change service (LOF). This is the process of safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty. Great for Turbocharged & Supercharged applications where hot oils deteriorate so quickly due to heat, and leaves those residues that NEED CLEANING. (LOF = Lube oil & Filter service = OIL CHANGE).

2. As an AFTER SERVICE ADDITIVE into fresh oil, nearly fresh oil, or oil (used condition) that is NOT ready to be changed (by mileage), put 1 ½ ounces Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the crankcase per quart of capacity as described above, then SELF SET a program to MONITOR your oil for level, color and clarity on a mileage, timed, or event basis (like every time you add fuel, etc.) to determine when an oil service is necessary. (LOF) When the oil gets dirty, CHANGE IT!

Sea Foam Motor Treatment will safely and slowly re liquefy old oil residue, This will make your oil need changing BEFORE your normal scheduled LOF service. Only your monitoring of the oil for color and clarity can tell when it is time to do LOF - oil change service, or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first.

Synthetic oils, both blends and 100%, were engineered and are manufactured to be 100% compatible with petroleum based oils, all brands, and vice/versa. Without compatibility, oil manufacturers and engineers would be liable for the results of mixing non-compatible lubricants.

Check your oil; monitor its level, color & clarity to determine need for LOF service!
Change your oil when it gets dirty!

Technical Services Department May 2008 DD
Sea Foam Sales Company

Attachment 2:

Sea Foam Uses in Fuels

Sea Foam Motor Treatment #’s SF-16 (16 ounce), SF-128 (gallon container) and
SF-55 (a 55 gallon drum) is used as a fuel additive in Gasoline, Ethanol Blends, Gas/oil mixes & ALL Diesel fuels. This includes all brands and qualities of available fuels.

When added to these fuels, Sea Foam Motor Treatment was specifically designed to Safely do five (5) simple tasks for you. They are:

1. Sea Foam Motor Treatment is a 100% blended petroleum product. That means Sea Foam is OIL, so adding Sea Foam to ANY fuel, adds lubricity to Fuel systems, Induction systems (Including Drawn through Supercharged applications), upper cylinders, fuel pumps, and related fuel system & Exhaust (Turbocharged) components.
All fuels lack “Protecting” lubrication, Advantage: “Sea Foam”.

2. Sea Foam Motor Treatment contains an oil component that dries fuel system moisture. Moisture breaks down into its basic components of hydrogen and oxygen when Sea Foam Motor Treatment is added to any of the above listed fuels, allowing Sea Foam Motor Treatment to help eliminate problems caused by moisture, like diesel fuel gelling and poor run .Advantage: “Sea Foam”.

3. Sea Foam Motor Treatment contains an oil based high detergent fuel residue cleaner. Using Sea Foam Motor Treatment in your fuel system makes that old fuel residue safely back into liquid. Moisture becomes a “non issue” and allows contaminants to be filtered, as engineered by the manufacturer.
Advantage: “Sea Foam”.

4. Sea Foam Motor Treatments exclusive formula is blended specifically to clean carbon out of the engine as the engine is run. This is accomplished by our cleaning oil formula eliminating old sticky oil residue that holds carbon and allowing that carbon to flow out of the engine dust particle by dust particle. Advantage: “Sea Foam”.

5. Sea Foam Motor Treatment adds volatility to fuel and slows down the rate at which that fuel looses its ability to properly burn. When added to fuel and the fuel is in properly sealed containers or fuel systems, per printed container instructions, Sea Foam Motor Treatment is a fuel stabilizer for up to 2 years. Always run the engine for a long enough period of time to assure the entire system is protected.
Advantage: “Sea Foam”.

Technical Services Department
Sea Foam Sales Company

Updated May, 2008 DD

Last Attachment:

Sea Foam Amounts in Fuel

4 Cycle Type Engines
Diesel
Rotary (Wankel)
2 Cycle type Engines



Sea Foam Products recommends an average of 1 ounce Sea Foam Motor Treatment to each gallon of Gasoline (including 10% & 15% ethanol) and Diesel fuel (including low sulfur & Ultra Low Sulfur blends). With any vehicle or system FACTORY DESIGNED for E-85 fuel, use 2 ounces Sea foam per gallon of the fuel.


Parameters are: 1 – 16 ounce can of Sea Foam Motor Treatment to a MINIMUM of 8 gallons of fuel, Maximum 25 gallons fuel to a 16 ounce can for maintenance. Follow the instructions above for OIL INJECTED engines also. (NO Sea Foam Motor Treatment ever goes into the oil reserve tank for oil injection).


***For all gas/oil mixed fuels (2 cycle) and E-85 Ethanol to be used in systems NOT specifically factory designed for E-85 fuels, DOUBLE the amount of Sea Foam Motor Treatment used per gallon.


Sea Foam Motor Treatment is blended OIL, and will not run a gasoline, Gas/oil mix or Ethanol engine without introducing HYDROCARBONS (gasoline / ethanol) to the mixture at a minimum 50%.


Fuel injector cleaning machines in a controlled environment use Sea Foam Motor Treatment as their safe Cleaning agent mixed with gasoline or ethanol blend at a ratio of 50% Gasoline/Ethanol blend & 50% Sea Foam Motor Treatment.



Technical Services Department
Sea Foam Sales Company
Minneapolis, Minnesota


Updated May, 2008 DD

Now if they would only make thier cans more user friendly (e.g. clear window on the side like modern quart oil bottles to measure from and a different seal). That white plastic seal sorks as I always manage to get some of that stuff on my hands when I open a new bottle.

On a side note I've been running Seafoam in my lawn mower (fuel additive style) and I am diffenately using less fuel per mowing session. She still burns a little oil but hey its a 17 year Briggs and Stratton what do you want. Seafoam FTW!

Good information! perhaps this should be a sticky??

TomGun wrote:Good information! perhaps this should be a sticky??

It's now Stuck!!

Nice..definatly sticky worthy

THANKs!

SeaFoam is indeed awesome stuff. Poured a bunch down my carbs this spring and completely smoked out my neighborhood. It idled a lot smoother afterwards.

Luke-a-Tron wrote:SeaFoam is indeed awesome stuff. Poured a bunch down my carbs this spring and completely smoked out my neighborhood. It idled a lot smoother afterwards.

Definitly great stuff. It got rid of my buddies check engine light on his car! .

It made the valves on my old Civic 10 times quieter too.

This is an awesome thread to say the least!

This backs up all he good Ive ever head about Seafoam. I've used it in an old jeep that would bearly idle, and after 1/3 pint down the carb it idles like (almost) new. Well, for a 20 year old Jeep it runs pretty good.

I've used it as a fule stabilizer for a couple of years but was hesitant about putting it in my oil. I'l try that next time I change my oil to get the gunk out.

Thanks for the info!

Oh man, it makes a huge difference when you change the oil. I've never left it in as long as they suggest though, only like 10 miles. In fact I'd probably not suggest doing it the first time like that because a lot of crap will come out with it only there for 10 miles. My oil looked like tar when I did it on my Civic the first time. I wouldn't want that circulating any longer than I needed to.

I also didn't realize you throw in with fresh oil. Might have to do that before I head out on vacation in a few weeks. Then again, maybe right before a long road trip isn't the best time to try something new.

Luke-a-Tron wrote:Oh man, it makes a huge difference when you change the oil. I've never left it in as long as they suggest though, only like 10 miles. In fact I'd probably not suggest doing it the first time like that because a lot of crap will come out with it only there for 10 miles. My oil looked like tar when I did it on my Civic the first time. I wouldn't want that circulating any longer than I needed to.

I also didn't realize you throw in with fresh oil. Might have to do that before I head out on vacation in a few weeks. Then again, maybe right before a long road trip isn't the best time to try something new.

hahaha the classic dilemma right?

I ran it in my oil for 2 trips to work and back which equals 68 miles. The oil looked the same as it always does. Dark and thick with no clumps. I run my oil through a coffee filter, and kitchen strainer I took from my wifes kitchen stuff. I do it just to see if anything is coming out of the oil.

sweekster wrote:

TomGun wrote:Good information! perhaps this should be a sticky??

It's now Stuck!!

wiki?

I ran it in my oil for 2 trips to work and back which equals 68 miles. The oil looked the same as it always does. Dark and thick with no clumps. I run my oil through a coffee filter, and kitchen strainer I took from my wifes kitchen stuff. I do it just to see if anything is coming out of the oil.

she must really love that.

jsph.mitch wrote:I ran it in my oil for 2 trips to work and back which equals 68 miles. The oil looked the same as it always does. Dark and thick with no clumps. I run my oil through a coffee filter, and kitchen strainer I took from my wifes kitchen stuff. I do it just to see if anything is coming out of the oil.

It's really dependent on the maintenance history of the vehicle. My Civic seized up at 80k miles, about 8k after I bought it. The mechanic said it looked like the previous owner was not very good with maintenance as there was a lot damage to nearly every bearing surface. Looking back, it's not that surprising given the amount of crap that came out the first time I seafoamed the oil. It was like black gear oil coming out. There was probably a ton of metal in it, had I bothered to strain it (I do that too sometimes). Oh well, that car is long gone now.

jsph.mitch wrote:I ran it in my oil for 2 trips to work and back which equals 68 miles. The oil looked the same as it always does. Dark and thick with no clumps. I run my oil through a coffee filter, and kitchen strainer I took from my wifes kitchen stuff. I do it just to see if anything is coming out of the oil.

i get a half gallon empty milk jug, pour the oil in it, let it settle for a couple weeks, then take it to the recycle facility and look in the bottom of the jug. All the "crap / sludge" will settle to the bottom.

Makes good gravy for steak.