Bike died while riding, replaced battery now wont start

[bm11f]

Hello,
the other day i was riding home from work and the bike shut down as i started to move after being at a light. I still had electronics but the battery was not strong enough to start the bike back up. I had it towed and i replaced the battery. Once i replaced the battery i tried to start the bike and there was a loud crack sound on the right side of the bike towards the front. Ive tried again and sometimes it will do the crack but usually it just does nothing. I know its not the best description but its a starting point for the discussion.

Please help!!!!

Thanks
Brock

[HybridSport600]

First check to make sure you have all three of the following.....Fuel, Air, and spark!

[calorgaz]

Hi Brock,

I'm wondering if you are having the same problem as myself a few days ago, the loud crack when starting sounds very familiar. Have you tried moving the bike in high gear or is the motor locked solid?

I found that I was hydrolocked and after removing the plugs and rolling the bike in gear it emptied the cyclinders of fuel. I kept rolling it in gear to make sure I hadn't done any damage to the motor and the pistons weren't hitting the valves, then plugs back in and start her up.

My original post is here viewtopic.php?f=8&t=10544 and thanks to those that helped along the way.

Good luck,

Cal

[bm11f]

ok so i pulled the spark plugs out and did the push thing. The loud crack sound didnt happen once i put the spark plugs back in. My friend was the one looking at the plugs and he said we didnt have a spark. I do not have a inline spark tester. Now instead of not doing anything when i try to start it; the bike tries to start and did one maybe 2 real soft stutters throughout the whole process of trying. The sparks did not look fouled when i pulled them out but there was some black gunk around spark number 1/2. The ticking i mentioned on the right side went away on the first couple of tries after doing the push but now it does it every once in a while but not as frequently.

Hope this gives some clues,

Thanks for all of your help,

Brock

[JasonRDfan]

The ticking sounds like it may be your fuel pump. Check your fuses. You will need to see if you have good spark. Pull the spark plug wires. throw in an old plug. ground the spark plug. Ttry starting the bike watch for a goog spark. Make sure your battery is fully charged. Use a multimeter. They are cheap if you need to buy one, like $10 at Walmart. If you get the bike started you will need to start checking the charging system.

[bm11f]

ok ill check that tomorrow. Is there any chance that it being in reserve is the problem? I think it may be in reserve but it is hard to tell because the knob to twist it is broken off and i cant figure out how to move it. I screwed in a bolt to try and twist it but cant twist it left of course because it unscrews the bolt.

Thanks for all the help,

Brock

[JasonRDfan]

It's ok it's in reserve, just make sure it's getting enough gas.

[bm11f]

ok i pulled the tank out and put the gas on instead of reserve. After that i pushed it down a hill with the choke on and click it in to 2nd gear and it fired up i then shut the choke off and it idled. i left it idling for about 10 minutes and it was running strong but then it started sputtering and shut down. When i went to start the bike the battery wouldnt if power the starter. I jumped it and it fired up on the first try and ran for a little bit before it sputtered out again.
Let me know what you think,

Thanks

[DonTZ125]

The alternator doesn't produce enough power to charge the battery until 4-5000 rpm. Leaving the bike idling for extended periods of time just runs the battery down. A fully-charged battery will run a race bike for 1-2 hours; a partially-discharged battery, powering both ignition and headlights, will go flat a lot faster.

[bm11f]

The alternator doesn't produce enough power to charge the battery until 4-5000 rpm. Leaving the bike idling for extended periods of time just runs the battery down. A fully-charged battery will run a race bike for 1-2 hours; a partially-discharged battery, powering both ignition and headlights, will go flat a lot faster.

How long do i need to ride it for the alternator to do anything? i rode it for about 10 minutes and when i shut it off it started back up easily. Then i came back later and the battery was dead so i rode it around a little bit but if i am holding in the clutch for too long(ex: coming to a light or stop sign) it will die on me sometimes while riding it. It will start back up but i have to make sure to rev it to keep the idle up when i have the clutch in. Also, when i got back i parked it and it idled for about 30 seconds and i then tried to start it and the battery was dead. Let me know if you have any idea whats going on.

Thanks,

[DonTZ125]

Take your battery to the local NAPA, Canadian Tire, Walgrens - whatever - and have them test it. Sounds like it's shorted inside. The stalling at a stop light could be the battery, or it could be a misadjusted clutch dragging slightly, or the idle is set too low. The flat battery at restart after a 10 minute ride certainly points to a bad battery, but - what engine speed are you shifting at? I recall, many years ago when I started riding and we got our gasoline by milking actual dinosaurs, I was shifting my first bike at around 3000rpm (this was a clapped-out XS400, so you can just imagine the performance I was getting). My battery was constantly flat, until the nice man at the garage told me you have to let the engine spin to charge the battery.

[bm11f]

ok i rode it again after replacing with brand new spark plugs. it rode good for about 15 minutes, then i turned left and while turning with the clutch in it shut down. I fired it back up with the starter and rode it home. During that portion of the ride the bike sounded very muffled and seemed like it wouldnt do anything once it got to about 4000 rpms. It would go somewhat faster but even when i switched up gears it was muffled and sounded like it would flatten out around 4000 rpms and i think it was backfiring but it was a very suttle few times that just sounded like it was choking. Also, the battery is brand new.

Thanks for all the help

[HybridSport600]

ok i rode it again after replacing with brand new spark plugs. it rode good for about 15 minutes, then i turned left and while turning with the clutch in it shut down. I fired it back up with the starter and rode it home. During that portion of the ride the bike sounded very muffled and seemed like it wouldnt do anything once it got to about 4000 rpms. It would go somewhat faster but even when i switched up gears it was muffled and sounded like it would flatten out around 4000 rpms and i think it was backfiring but it was a very suttle few times that just sounded like it was choking. Also, the battery is brand new.

Thanks for all the help

Get used to it, thats the feeling of running out of gas......Check your float levels are correct and even across the four. Sounds like they are set too lean.

[bm11f]

My fuel pump is very loud when i set the bike to run and i just tried it and the digital ignitor is now ticking when in the run position also

[HybridSport600]

these bike only use a 3-5 psi pump, and can actually be removed if the fuel tank was fully above the carbs. that being said I also have to say the it will not let you run at WOT for verry long at all because the gravity fed supply will not be able to keep up with the demand from the carbs at higher rpm's. your problem appears to be either a fuel problem, or electrical issue. I would assure the charging sys and all electrical is in good order, if all is good then check to see if fuel hepls it.