Programmable ignitions for your bike

[olie05]

If it is megasquirt based there is always megajolt, which is the same idea:
89.95
http://www.autosportlabs.com/megajolt-l ... -p-39.html

then buy a couple of coil driver kits so you don't have to run EDIS.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/bosc ... 7c910b9640

build an lm1815 based signal conditioning circuit to condition the VR input

and get a missing tooth timing wheel to replace the odd shaped fzr unit...

...at that point you're just a set of throttle bodies and a fuel pump away from fuel injection. (if you switch the meagajolt out for a proper megasquirt)

Diztroy, how is your megasquirt setup working out so far?

[diztroy]

Yeah, I had megajolt in mind too. I was just wondering if he developed code specifically to read the RD400 or R1 trigger wheels or is just using a 36-1. If you'd have to modify the stock flywheel/rotor I personally think that at ~$200 usd the IgniTech would be a better/easier way to go because it works with stock hardware. For my project I'm trying to decide if I want to adapt a 36-1 wheel or try and use the stock parts....the 36-1 would interface with megasquirt better and provide better resolution on crank location, but it would be nice if I could interface with the stock parts, but I'll have to use the MSextra code. Once I get farther along I'll see what the gurus on the forums recommend.

I've swapped the EFI parts to my stock yzf600 (not the streetfighter) and got it running on fuel only, still working on getting a good base tune, but winter/snow has slowed tuning progress. After I get a good tune I'm gonna rewire it for fuel and spark, then install the turbo. Then after I finish some chassis mods on the streetfighter I'll swap all the parts back over. Anyways, I've got 2 videos here from when I first got it running, http://www.oldskoolyzf.com/forum/viewto ... &start=139

[yamaha_george]

Well the pair of you kept your work pretty quiet, but thanks for the links

[diztroy]

....I didn't mean to keep it so quiet; I hadn't been able to work on it for the past year so I think it fell of most people's radar (including my own, haha).

Don't worry, once I get it tuned and the turbo on and get some on-road vids, you'll definitly hear alllll about it.

[olie05]

I have no work yet... . I have plans to megasquirt my FZR but all i have so far is a set of r6 throttles and a gsxr fuel pump.

I have megasquirted my datsun 280z... and a honda f4i, which is how I know about megasquirt.

My FZR megasquirt install will be well documented if it ever happens.

Edit: I forgot to mention that grinding off the long tooth on the ignition wheel could be one solution, but then you would have a 4-1 wheel, which doesn't give very good resolution.

[yamaha_george]

I have no work yet... . I have plans to megasquirt my FZR but all i have so far is a set of r6 throttles and a gsxr fuel pump.

I have megasquirted my datsun 280z... and a honda f4i, which is how I know about megasquirt.

My FZR megasquirt install will be well documented if it ever happens.

Edit: I forgot to mention that grinding off the long tooth on the ignition wheel could be one solution, but then you would have a 4-1 wheel, which doesn't give very good resolution.

I wanted to ask about that (36-1 toothed wheel ) it is shown as being on a table with other bits (I have seen so many pictures of various projects of late do not ask me where )
I know it is part of the sensor for timing set up but where on a Yamaha would you fit it since the flywheel rotates between two sets of coils . Yup I know the old pickup is not required but surely ther is not enough room to fit what I saw.

Or do you have to have a 36-1 disc made for each model of bike ?
I am primarily interested in mega jolt rather than megasqirt which is just at present too far without a proper back up of garage / workshop space since computing & soldering are required

[diztroy]

I wanted to ask about that (36-1 toothed wheel ) it is shown as being on a table with other bits (I have seen so many pictures of various projects of late do not ask me where )
I know it is part of the sensor for timing set up but where on a Yamaha would you fit it since the flywheel rotates between two sets of coils . Yup I know the old pickup is not required but surely ther is not enough room to fit what I saw.

Or do you have to have a 36-1 disc made for each model of bike ?
I am primarily interested in mega jolt rather than megasqirt which is just at present too far without a proper back up of garage / workshop space since computing & soldering are required

I think this is the picture you are referring too?,



The right one is stock and you can see one of the 4 teeth (the square thing) on the front. The one on the left you can see he machined the stock teeth off and welded on the 36-1 toothed wheel. You can see the teeth don't take up any more room (diameter I mean) then the stock setup so I don't see why it wouldn't fit. The design of the 36-1 wheel is pretty simple and universal, you just need to make a metal disk with 36 evenly spaced teeth (i.e. 10 degrees apart) and then grind one off (36 teeth minus one tooth). The reason you grind one off is because this lets the computer know how to calibrate the tooth locations to the crankshaft locations. So yes, you'll have to make one for each bike.

However, with proper software it should be possible to interface with the stock components and basically work just like the Yamaha design. I've posted that question on the MSextra forums here,

http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?f= ... 3&start=23

So I'll be sending James a YZF600 and FZR600 flywheel and see what he can come up with for software. It won't have as good a resolution as a 36-1 wheel, but Yamaha made it work so I don't know why we couldn't.

[olie05]

Having the code be able to pick up the stock yamaha pattern would be awesome. It would minimize the work to simple wiring.

[yamaha_george]

D,
That is the picture but the angle is deceptive.
Yes you can see the Yamaha "humps" are gone, but that 36-1 ring seems awfully flimsily, held on by I can only see spot / tack welds at about 30 degree intervals.

Considering the centrifugal force at what up to 12K max, I would assume the lack of welding is to keep heat from destroying the magnets and that he re-balanced the wheel after assembly to save the c'shaft bearings.

I would be interested to see how the sensor was assembled into " the plot".

I will take a look at your new link tomorrows as i can feel my meds deadning my thinking
THANK you for your help in our quest for good mods

[diztroy]

I see what you mean about looking flimsy, but its not interfacing with anything (I mean like a gear set would) so I'm sure its fine. I suspect he was careful about where he put the welds (180 degrees apart) and didn't rebalanced it....I know I wouldn't worry about that little bit considering how much abuse the rotating assembly takes from normal operation.

I'm not sure what you mean by "the plot"?

Also just wondering, has anybody ever looked into just reflashing the stock chip in the ignition module? The HD6301VIP shown here, http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=tci-repair , it would take some work, I know this sort of thing is common with hondas, http://wikitest.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin/vie ... CUChipping

[yamaha_george]

I'm not sure what you mean by "the plot"?

Troy,
Basically how it all looks when it is finally mounted up & more importantly where the sensor is mounted .
Wondered if the old pickup space is usable or not?

[diztroy]

Troy,
Basically how it all looks when it is finally mounted up & more importantly where the sensor is mounted .
Wondered if the old pickup space is usable or not?

Well I'd say based on his pictures here, http://www.tr1x.org/?cat=11 , that after mounting up the 36-1 wheel everything mounted up stock and then it was just a matter of wiring it.

[RoadDogma]

I would be interested, but why not etch the circuit board ones-self or just employ point to point soldering if getting a supply of boards is a problem? A simple schematic could be all that is needed.

[yamaha_george]

I would be interested, but why not etch the circuit board ones-self or just employ point to point soldering if getting a supply of boards is a problem? A simple schematic could be all that is needed.

RD,
etching boards for high frequency circuits is not that simple even today.
Point to point has merit but some of the chips are subject to static damage I understand.

Anyways our man in Oz is sending me photo's about wednesday with any luck & he has two proto's built of the latest version so we may see some good stuff in the very near future.

Apart from that my own research has dug me up some interesting bits & bobs which when I have thoroughly read them I will pass on.