Since I now have the FZR400 framed / YZF 600R engined superbike ready for the track, I wanted to know about running constant loss.
What is involved to ensure the bike runs well and what exactly do I need to remove?
I hae a charging system and three batteries sitting here so juice is not an issue.
What ever rotating mass I can nix is best for me since this is a total 100% track bike. I plan to delete the starter motor and related gear once I get her tuned in properly as well.
so any suggestions on a blank of plate? I think I simply used a freeze plug when I did this back in the day on the FZR-400 bike I used to race.
Thanks for any help provided.
constant loss system
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Re: constant loss system
You can remove the starter, starter drive and it's idlers and driven gear/sprocket and put the peanut cover back on. I am pretty sure a freeze plug will still work-if you can locate one in the proper size. Easy enough to use the starter nose as a pattern to have one machined (or even disassemble the starter motor and have the shaft hole welded closed on the nose piece and clamp that in place)
Of course, the starter solenoid goes bye bye too..along with it's heavy battery leads.
You can pull the magnets out of the flywheel (heat gun) they are ceramic magnets so they'll probably chip into chunks.
And, you can pare down the flywheel in a mill, leaving towers surrounding the timing trigger 'bumps'..... like this from the side: _____/~\_____
Or you can leave the outer 'rim' and just mill holes evenly spaced around the flywheel.
Or, you could buy a timing wheel already pared down....I think Falicon still sells them.
The stator coil goes..strip the plastic conduit off it's leads and separate the three stator wires (three, white) from the two pickup coil wires (white with red trace, white with black trace). KEEP the pickup coil, it's wiring and connector.
VR goes as well..it's leads will disappear...the three white are from the now missing stator, the red is battery charge, the black is unit ground.
Of course, the starter solenoid goes bye bye too..along with it's heavy battery leads.
You can pull the magnets out of the flywheel (heat gun) they are ceramic magnets so they'll probably chip into chunks.
And, you can pare down the flywheel in a mill, leaving towers surrounding the timing trigger 'bumps'..... like this from the side: _____/~\_____
Or you can leave the outer 'rim' and just mill holes evenly spaced around the flywheel.
Or, you could buy a timing wheel already pared down....I think Falicon still sells them.
The stator coil goes..strip the plastic conduit off it's leads and separate the three stator wires (three, white) from the two pickup coil wires (white with red trace, white with black trace). KEEP the pickup coil, it's wiring and connector.
VR goes as well..it's leads will disappear...the three white are from the now missing stator, the red is battery charge, the black is unit ground.
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http://www.youtube.com/user/reelrazor
Re: constant loss system
fzr660/400: fzr400 3en1 frame, 3en2 swinger, custom single seat subframe, fzr660 motor conversion, APE adjustable cam gears, full D&D 4-2-1 exhaust, falicon clutch basket, ignitech ignition, R6 front end with tz250 wheel, ohlins shock, storz steering damper, tzr250 rear wheel.
weighs 166kg wet (25kg lighter than my stock fzr600).
weighs 166kg wet (25kg lighter than my stock fzr600).