FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

We had a bit of a discussion over on the Archives; a fellow was looking for a racing wiring schematic, and I tossed out this old chestnut:


After a day or so of discussion on the pros and cons of this specimen, I was motivated to warm up the EagleCAD and came up with this:

(Rev.0 schematic deleted)

Update 23 March - Here's Rev 1, with several changes. I've added the option of a 20A main switch, and restored the self-test for the oil light (different modes for push start and electric start). There's a few other changes; everything new is in BLUE.



Thoughts or comments?

Don that's a real nice diagram you have there. If I were to set up the Fzr for racing that would be the way I'd go. Hope you don't mind but I stole your images just in case. Lol

sent from a portable leash

What was that line about the sincerest form of flattery?

Use it, love it, change it - that's why I posted it. If you have any suggestions to improve it, let me know.

DonTZ125 wrote:What was that line about the sincerest form of flattery?

Use it, love it, change it - that's why I posted it. If you have any suggestions to improve it, let me know.

Don everything can be improved, I'm glad our bantering worked. I think you have this pretty much nailed. But if I find a fault well

na seriously very nice work.

In wiring race cars we like to have a master cut off switch that cuts power to everything. Is this not the case on race bikes? Would it hurt to put the coil power on the other side of the switch?

The only comment here is that wherever possible the components shown are the stock parts, a few connectors being the exceptions. The kill switch shown is the stock handlebar switch, which really isn't up to the load of the coils and doesn't carry it in the stock wiring. It would be a very small mod to add a 20A toggle or rocker switch between the battery and the 15A fuse.

There was some discussion on this over on the Archives; my suggestion was that since this was a racebike pulling the main fuse or unplugging the battery connector wouldn't be too arduous; no current flows through the coils unless the engine is running - a failed-shut driver on the TCI is VERY rare.

What should be noted here is.

This diagram is for a FZR 600.

Not a FZR400 or even a YZF600 those bikes are very different

; topic title updated.

DonTZ125 wrote:; topic title updated.

Update - Rev.1 schematic added to top post.

I'm sure I'd think that diagream is pretty cool if I could understand it LOL. I don't think I'm going to mess around with total loss but it is very cool that you posted this and are updating it as necessary.

I think the diagram is fairly complete; certainly there haven't been any suggestions to modify it in a year or so! I tried to make it fairly Newfie-proof - apparently I didn't make it Joisy-proof!

What can I explain about it?

It looks good to me. If I look at it long enough I'm sure I can figure it out. I'm just not a wiring / electrical person so iat first glance it looks like spaghetti to me.

BTW it's impossible to make something Jersey proof. We're geniuses at stoopid.

Massive necro bump, I know. But does anyone happen to have a copy of the diagram here? I want to build a new harness for my bike that eliminates as much unnecessary wiring as possible and this would probably be a great place to start.

As requested ...