FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Hi all.
Im in the Uk and have just bought an FZR600 which i plan on using a a cheap trackbike over the summer - (if we ever get one here in England.) so i wanted to ask you wise oracles of knowledge about some budget mods for the bike on track.

I've worked out the following on my own, i dont really plan on spending to much - These projects can snowball and im unemployed at the moment!!!

1. The front forks will need thicker oil as a minimum and stiffer or progressive springs would be a good use of my money... Does anyone have experience of riding both?
2.Reel Razors R6 conversion kit for the rear shock seems like good value.

Im probably going to leave the motor alone (too exspensive but if anyone has any other suggestions, dropping through the yokes, home-made or cheap fork brace etc..

Thanks

tattysteve wrote:Hi all.
Im in the Uk and have just bought an FZR600 which i plan on using a a cheap trackbike over the summer - (if we ever get one here in England.) so i wanted to ask you wise oracles of knowledge about some budget mods for the bike on track.

I've worked out the following on my own, i dont really plan on spending to much - These projects can snowball and im unemployed at the moment!!!

1. The front forks will need thicker oil as a minimum and stiffer or progressive springs would be a good use of my money... Does anyone have experience of riding both?
2.Reel Razors R6 conversion kit for the rear shock seems like good value.

Im probably going to leave the motor alone (too exspensive but if anyone has any other suggestions, dropping through the yokes, home-made or cheap fork brace etc..

Thanks

Suggest you take alook thro our WIKI tech book & URL page for things that can be done..

The best mod is to get a set of PD valves the Yanks gall them Emulators & get your self a set of fork springs made (a lot cheaper than buying "named" sets )

See also:-

http://www.saltmine.org.uk/fzr/project-1.html

& the relavent pages there on suspension mods etc.

Geo,

Is your spring guy's contact info at the saltmine site?

reelrazor wrote:Geo,

Is your spring guy's contact info at the saltmine site?

YUP

Cheap MODs:

The R6 shock is definitely a good MOD.

Thicker oil in the front forks - maybe add more preload.

Although, not always cheap, but a good set of racing case covers will help in a fall. Otherwise, it can be really "expensive" to fix the bike. Just check eBay frequently.

Stainless steel brake lines in the front. If you can find a complete outfit, a YZF600 front brake set-up (MC and calipers) is a huge improvement.

K&N Filter.

V&H Supersport Exhaust - these can be found inexpensively if you look hard enough.

The stock forks come with progressive springs, so just adding preload will stiffen the front end up a bit (search the site for the spedifics). People have used pieces of PVC plumbing pipe for the new spacers, so cost should be minimal.

If you want to run premium fuel (91+ octane) an Ignition advancer from factory pro helps throttle response a little. Also, Yamaha George know a thing or two about modifying these carbs, so check with him on a few race tricks he may have up his sleeve.

regardless if you get suspension work done or not, the best $$$ you can spend on a track bike is to get the suspension tuned for your weight. pick a reputable suspension company/guy at the track and let them set you up. if you can afford upgraded suspension, i highly recommend it. even a stock shock reworked with new internals gives a noticeable amount of feel and handling to a bike. i put 2 washers on my r6 shock to shim it up a bit. the result was that the tail of the bike was 11.7 mm higher at the rear axle (from 4mm of washers) which made the r6 more flickable in the corners. talk about a cheap mod with great results....

i wouldn't waste money on engine mods for a few hp. a few more hp doesn't really make you any faster. just look at all the guys in the beginner group on new liter bikes. fast guys go fast even on 50 hp bikes.

used adjustable rear sets are good. they give you more ground clearance and can make your riding position more comfortable on the bike.

if you don't have a damper on the bike, get one. they aren't cheap, but they can save your ass from a serious headshake or tank slapper which leads to a crash. rotary designs are less likely to be damaged in the case of an accident than the piston style.

someone already said stainless steel brake lines, and i will second that. i had the goodridge -2 ss lines and they provided serious stopping power even with stock master cylinder and calipers. 1 finger braking lifts the rear wheel pretty easily.

tattysteve wrote:Hi all.
Im in the Uk and have just bought an FZR600 which i plan on using a a cheap trackbike over the summer - (if we ever get one here in England.) so i wanted to ask you wise oracles of knowledge about some budget mods for the bike on track.

I've worked out the following on my own, i dont really plan on spending to much - These projects can snowball and im unemployed at the moment!!!

1. The front forks will need thicker oil as a minimum and stiffer or progressive springs would be a good use of my money... Does anyone have experience of riding both?
2.Reel Razors R6 conversion kit for the rear shock seems like good value.

Im probably going to leave the motor alone (too exspensive but if anyone has any other suggestions, dropping through the yokes, home-made or cheap fork brace etc..

Thanks

you want race tec non progressive springs on track.progressive no good.Up the oil weight and overfull slightly also.Spacers about 10mm if you retain stock springs.I tried fork brace and it was crap.Just biffed it out.Wasting time with that one.
Rear static sage about 25-28 mm.Very important then adjust rebound to suit the way you ride.
Vortex chain set was the biggest bolt on performance mod that you can get for a fixed known figure.
Twin pods and jet kit biggest hp gain.to get the most you need dyno money.Dont drill the slides before you take it in.
i ran 26 dyno runs developing mine so far to learn that slides shouldnt have been drilled for our petrol so I am fitting another set of undrilled slides then dyno tuning again.I have at this stage soaked $1000NZD into dyno tuning.
If you are keeping stock air box lift the front of your tank 10mm.A couple of free hp that wont show on dyno but will on track.
baffle block your carbs to stop hot air warming fuel.
I have also insulted the tank base with silver roof repair tape to keep fuel cold.
cold fuel can give you 6hp on the 1000 so would give you 3hp approx on 600 and that good gains for $10 in tape and $10 in baffle block.

mossy1200 wrote:

tattysteve wrote:Hi all.
Im in the Uk and have just bought an FZR600 which i plan on using a a cheap trackbike

Thanks

you want race tec non progressive springs on track.progressive no good.Up the oil weight and overfull slightly also.Spacers about 10mm if you retain stock springs.I tried fork brace and it was crap.Just biffed it out.Wasting time with that one.
Rear static sage about 25-28 mm.Very important then adjust rebound to suit the way you ride.
Vortex chain set was the biggest bolt on performance mod that you can get for a fixed known figure.
Twin pods and jet kit biggest hp gain.to get the most you need dyno money.Dont drill the slides before you take it in.
i ran 26 dyno runs developing mine so far to learn that slides shouldnt have been drilled for our petrol so I am fitting another set of undrilled slides then dyno tuning again.I have at this stage soaked $1000NZD into dyno tuning.
If you are keeping stock air box lift the front of your tank 10mm.A couple of free hp that wont show on dyno but will on track.
baffle block your carbs to stop hot air warming fuel.
I have also insulted the tank base with silver roof repair tape to keep fuel cold.
cold fuel can give you 6hp on the 1000 so would give you 3hp approx on 600 and that good gains for $10 in tape and $10 in baffle block.

Mossy

he is in the UK race tech will Faff about with excuses not to sell to him as he is not a Yank and by default not to be trusted . Use their website to work what springs he needs and then get a local UK company to make them FAR FAR cheaper @ 40 Quid a pair.

Your cool carb baffling has my curiosity peeked ---- pictures ??

Dyno runs here are 40-50 quid a throw not under any circumstance cheap best I have ever seen was on GSXR day at the Ace Cafe' at 35 quid as a one off.

Stick with a SINGLE OEM replacement K& N filter not pods for ease of tuning until cash flows in then the double pods and cash for dyno work to get the carbs working properly.

Yer bike is looking sharp

some vinyl decals are pretty cheap

George i dont have my carb baffle block on as im dyno tuning again next week and i dont have photos existing.
it is basically mat that covers carb base and bowls.I have used firemans jacket material.
I went to fire station and asked if they had damaged jacket that they would sell me and they gave me a old jacket for 12beers.
i sit it under carb base then lock wire it up with fuse wire.Dont cover the top half of carbs just the bottom and manifold side as you want the ram air to pass under airbox and cool the carbs.the idea is to prevent hot air from jugs and gearbox from reaching carbs.

yamaha_george wrote:

mossy1200 wrote:

tattysteve wrote:Hi all.
Im in the Uk and have just bought an FZR600 which i plan on using a a cheap trackbike

Thanks

you want race tec non progressive springs on track.progressive no good.Up the oil weight and overfull slightly also.Spacers about 10mm if you retain stock springs.I tried fork brace and it was crap.Just biffed it out.Wasting time with that one.
Rear static sage about 25-28 mm.Very important then adjust rebound to suit the way you ride.
Vortex chain set was the biggest bolt on performance mod that you can get for a fixed known figure.
Twin pods and jet kit biggest hp gain.to get the most you need dyno money.Dont drill the slides before you take it in.
i ran 26 dyno runs developing mine so far to learn that slides shouldnt have been drilled for our petrol so I am fitting another set of undrilled slides then dyno tuning again.I have at this stage soaked $1000NZD into dyno tuning.
If you are keeping stock air box lift the front of your tank 10mm.A couple of free hp that wont show on dyno but will on track.
baffle block your carbs to stop hot air warming fuel.
I have also insulted the tank base with silver roof repair tape to keep fuel cold.
cold fuel can give you 6hp on the 1000 so would give you 3hp approx on 600 and that good gains for $10 in tape and $10 in baffle block.

Mossy

he is in the UK race tech will Faff about with excuses not to sell to him as he is not a Yank and by default not to be trusted . Use their website to work what springs he needs and then get a local UK company to make them FAR FAR cheaper @ 40 Quid a pair.

Your cool carb baffling has my curiosity peeked ---- pictures ??

Dyno runs here are 40-50 quid a throw not under any circumstance cheap best I have ever seen was on GSXR day at the Ace Cafe' at 35 quid as a one off.

Stick with a SINGLE OEM replacement K& N filter not pods for ease of tuning until cash flows in then the double pods and cash for dyno work to get the carbs working properly.

Yer bike is looking sharp

mossy1200 wrote:
George i dont have my carb baffle block on as im dyno tuning again next week and i dont have photos existing.
it is basically mat that covers carb base and bowls.I have used firemans jacket material.
I went to fire station and asked if they had damaged jacket that they would sell me and they gave me a old jacket for 12beers.
i sit it under carb base then lock wire it up with fuse wire.Dont cover the top half of carbs just the bottom and manifold side as you want the ram air to pass under airbox and cool the carbs.the idea is to prevent hot air from jugs and gearbox from reaching carbs.

Mossy,
Ah a carb blanket rather than a block I was expecting to see /hear about some CNC'd fire proof foam block of material that slipped over the bowls & fittings.

Still simple is always better, Although a fireman's jacket was a stroke of genius

Just done first track day done at Rockingham, Apart from the tyre guy dropping my bike and cracking the timing cover before the first session even started (repaired with quicksteel.) and an unplanned trip into the gravel in session 3 (no major damage done) It went great, i certanly wasnt outclassed by newer stuff.

The mods so far are:-

1. Stiffer fork springs from Yamaha Georges contact (o.85kg/mm) the biggest single improvement, although i think one of them may be binding in the tube
2. Running 15wt oil in the forks
3. Set of braied front lines
4. 520 chain conversion with 15/47 ratio - worked out cheaper than replacing the standard knackered chain!!!

as well as this i cleaned out the carbs, rebuilt the brakes, changed the oil etc etc.

Im pretty happy with what ive got for the money. my r6 shockj kit is on the way and ai cant wait for that!!!

sounds like you are doing good!!!

I'll be paying attention to this thread... I'm picking up a 400 trackbike today