FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

After year's of trying to get rid of the rusty rattle of my exup valve ...it is being retired. So I'm putting the v&h ss2-r 4-2-1 system on it that I've been sitting on for 2 year's. My Dynojet kit is on its way.

So ...I soaked the studs with PB Blaster. Gave it some time to soak into the 17 year old rusty studs/nuts and crossed my finger's.The 1st 3 studs stapped off just behind the nut, in front of the flange. The stud itself came out with the rusted nut still on 4 of the next 5. Only 1 nut actually came off a stud.So, I consider myself lucky at this point .... I'm going to try extracting the broken studs tomorrow evening with some kind of kit my friend has.

I did a search for the studs and nuts online with only an ebay.uk auction being found. Does anyone know a direct site I can purchase them from to get them quicker?? I know I can order them from my local dealer, but I wanted to try a less expensive route if I could.

Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks

I would advise NOT using an "easy out" to remove the stud. These are the ones where you drill a small hole on the center of the broken stud and screw a reverse thread in until it locks and starts to turn the stud out. If you break off one of these in the hole you will be in a whole pile of poo.

The studs are nothing special, take a sample to your local metal/engineering supply shop. Should be easy to get an equivalant.


From experience the best way is to remove the head and drill and re-tap the holes.

ofloinn3 wrote:After year's of trying to get rid of the rusty rattle of my exup valve ...it is being retired. So I'm putting the v&h ss2-r 4-2-1 system on it that I've been sitting on for 2 year's. My Dynojet kit is on its way.

So ...I soaked the studs with PB Blaster. Gave it some time to soak into the 17 year old rusty studs/nuts and crossed my finger's.The 1st 3 studs stapped off just behind the nut, in front of the flange. The stud itself came out with the rusted nut still on 4 of the next 5. Only 1 nut actually came off a stud.So, I consider myself lucky at this point .... I'm going to try extracting the broken studs tomorrow evening with some kind of kit my friend has.

I did a search for the studs and nuts online with only an ebay.uk auction being found. Does anyone know a direct site I can purchase them from to get them quicker?? I know I can order them from my local dealer, but I wanted to try a less expensive route if I could.

Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks

I agree ...I have never had an contractor bit not break on me. I believe the kit he has has a nut that you hammer on and then hat
chet off. Thanks for the tip on the studs bro.

Reverse drill bits, start small, work your way up and odds are once you remove enough material to relieve the stress the stud will come out with the bit.

Kurlon wrote:Reverse drill bits, start small, work your way up and odds are once you remove enough material to relieve the stress the stud will come out with the bit.

I agree 100%. I have tried nearly every method (including EDM drill) and the reverse drill is the cheapest option with the highest probability of success.

Reverse drill to the largest hole and if the offending stud is still in there then use the largest easy-out you can fit in the hole, (and get more than just the very tip into the hole.)

Don't go anywhere near it with a right hand drill bit, it will only make your problems worse.

The best option is prevention - a $15 propane torch will do great things towards getting the studs out intact.

ofloinn3 wrote: Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks

ok DonTZ is part way there with his advice the use of heat to break the corrosion lock of the differential of metals.

The way that ALWAYS works and is simple and cheap is to weld onto the broken stud (ie it is heated) and then weld a "T" bar onto the studs new extended length. Simple i have done this trick on on all sorts of bike over the plus 50 odd years.

If you look in the achive you will see I wrote this up and why other methods fail due to simple metalurgy fact.
as for replacements studs get them made at alocal workshop 1/2 case of beers or a bottle of JB or JD has always won the argument for me.

recently read somewhere that the studs are the same as used on many vauxhall cars...cheap as chips at you local GM dealer and they keep them on stock

Easy enough to check over the phone and nothing to lose if they dont have them in the right size

ive got a set of stud removal things that are like a socket with a cam type device, they lock down on to the renmains of the stud (there was enough on mine when it went behind the nut) and they have never failed to remove anything i've tried them on!

yamaha_george wrote:ok DonTZ is part way there with his advice the use of heat to break the corrosion lock of the differential of metals.

I actually meant to heat the studs FIRST, to avoid breaking the damn things in the first place ...

taggy wrote:ive got a set of stud removal things

are they a named make. I've been looking at these for some time with the intention of buying but am not sure if a major brand is needed to get the necessary quality

I had the same problem in my Kwak GT550. The stud was snapped flush to the engine. I put a nut on the end and dropped a bit of weld down the middle, thus creating a head. A bit of heat and then used the welded on nut to turn the stud out.

The studs are normal M8 threads, I made my own from stainless threaded bar and stainless nuts.

As for removal methods, it depends how bad they are, none of the above methods worked on my block. The stud just kept snapping lower and lower. A machine shop fixed it in the end, cost 70GBP.

Post up how you get on with that exupless exhaust....

Ok guys ...I found a stud removel tool at advanced auto. They also stock the 8mm 1.25 studs in a 2 pk. They come with a non-flanged nut. So I just ordered both thru my local cycle shop with stainless flanged nuts. They were more expensive but flanged nuts are what were stock.

Thanks for everyone's input on this. I did use my propane torch to heat them up and that helped for sure. So use the torch first and prevent breaking the studs like I did and going thru the headaches. Ride safe fzr brothers.

I've had good luck with easy outs on the studs. Just be careful your drill bit doesn't walk. The trick is to make sure it's seated deep enough, make sure the easy out you're using has enough of it in the hole.