FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Hi

Well iv had my FZR 1000 rebuilt and it runs like a bag of (S**T) pardon my french.

really fed up,

Ok it revs up fine when out of gear sounds fine, when i try and pull away in first under load it just starts to splutter and then i have to slip the clutch and rev the arse of it.

Have noticed that it is running very hot if i leave it ticking over for more than a couple of mins. When it gets above 4000 it flys. even on over run if i try and open it up it splutters.

Have been back to the bike shop and he said it needs new carbs £200, any ideas. it was running perfect before engine rebuild it was just a noisy generator chain.

really need some help guys.

Thanks

check your pilot circuit, does it run better when cold? might be running to lean. but that doesnt explain why its suddenly happening, ohwell

You probably just need to get into the carbs and clean them thoroughly. It is a shame that the bike shop gave you the bike back running like that.

will take the carbs off this week end and have a fumble, would that make it overheat?

Sounds like the carbs are not seated correctly since she is running seriously hot and will not pull off the line.(very lean)

OR the carbs are dirty in the pilot circuit.

The fact the shop is trying to sell you carbs instead of cleaning them makes me question their honesty.............

Do clean the carb individually, that way if the phone rings and you forget which bit goes where you have 3 others to compare too.
Once cleaned make your self the balance tool (in the WIKI HOW To:-'s) and balance the carbs

Hi George

Thanks again for you help, realy angry with the garage, going to give it a go myself, will make sure i do them one at a time, am i just looking for dirt and muck in them?

The Borg wrote:Hi George

Thanks again for you help, realy angry with the garage, going to give it a go myself, will make sure i do them one at a time, am i just looking for dirt and muck in them?

B,
I would check that the carbs are seated on the engine properly first , You will need to take the air box off first so you can inspect the rubbers between carb & engine. Just to be sure the rubbers are not perished/ cracked spray a little quick start round them see if the engine picks up speed whilst idling. If it does you ahve an air leak either through a .
crack or poor seating

If that proves one way or the other, you can then check the carbs for working roughly as you would expect ie slides all move together and butterfly valves are all more or less opening & closing the same amount. TAKE notes when doing this so you know what to adjust if required when you have taken the carbs off cleaned them & put them back.


Carb cleaning is fiddly and time consuming NEVER be in a hurry or you will screw up (even the most seasoned of us can do that if rushing).

Clean each jet (there are some good pics and a how-to in the WIKI !!!! ) clean each passage way as well with carb cleaner in a rattle can style make sure you WEAR GOGGLES to do this carb cleaner is like MACE not nice on the face and eyes (did it once and learned that lesson many years ago !!!)


When it comes to rubber O rings and the diaphram KEEP THEM AWAY from carb cleaner a damp soapy cloth at most. If the O ring looks deformed replace it ! Bowl gaskets same deal replace them if torn

Thanks George will give it a go, sounds like a Sunday job to me, will let you know how i get on with it, if you hear screams on Sunday its only me. Hee Hee

As everyone has said, check the carbs.

Also

Do you still have the exup valve? Is it working? Is it an exup?

The Borg wrote:Thanks George will give it a go, sounds like a Sunday job to me, will let you know how i get on with it, if you hear screams on Sunday its only me. Hee Hee

B,
yup that is a sensible move

'disassemble the carbs' does not mean removing them from their mounting brackets, they typically stay together except in the case of a Trans-Sahara racer after the contest! Just something to mention to a neophyte. Also, George's exclamation about eye protection is to be followed! Have you looked at the diaphragms yet? That could cause uneven running, but it wouldn't 'clean-up' at higher revs. An air compressor is needed to purge the tiny passages in the carb bodies after the carb cleaner. They may come clean by the carb cleaner but the air pressure helps. Unless the bike was lying on it's side for months where the gas evaporated while invading the circuits, the passages are usually pretty clean anyway. Remember, the gas sits in the float bowl assuming the Viton-tipped float valve shuts off the gas, not in the air passages above the level of gas in the float bowl.

The mention of the possible leaks in the carb boots is to be followed too. The old trick of heating them in boiling water to soften em up & then installing them onto the head spigots and the carb mouths is something to do if you have a difficult time getting them to seat properly, same for the air box to carb boots. Any air leaks as pointed out is going to result in poor running. What happens when you throw "on" the choke lever when the engine bogs? Does it help the engine to run better? That's a pretty good indicator of a serious lean condition.

Take your time and be sure to check your float levels too, against factory specs. FYI, I just replaced a defective float in my '87. 3 good, 1 bad. My ride just turned 25K mi & I just came back from Daytona Bike Week. I've had it 24 years. No payments, & I am used to the ride, & an R1 is a longer reach to the ground. Not so-much of an issue, as I am a bit < 5'11".

Hi

Thanks fire Medic will defiantly make sure i get a pair of safety glasses, and thanks for the information on the carbs, i think i may have found the problem, but not sure.

Took the tank off and had a look to see if all was connected and found on the bottom of the air box there are 3 pipes one in the middle is ok but on both sides there is a pipe and they both go to a Vapour filter (so the manual says) which then just ends up going to nothing near the rear shock. Well the one on the right hand side has broken off so there is just a hole there,

so im wondering if this could be the problem, If i block up the whole and the end of the pipe and give it a go or do i need this pipe in place?

Hope this sort of make sense

The Borg wrote:Hi

Thanks fire Medic will defiantly make sure i get a pair of safety glasses, and thanks for the information on the carbs, i think i may have found the problem, but not sure.

Took the tank off and had a look to see if all was connected and found on the bottom of the air box there are 3 pipes one in the middle is ok but on both sides there is a pipe and they both go to a Vapour filter (so the manual says) which then just ends up going to nothing near the rear shock. Well the one on the right hand side has broken off so there is just a hole there,

so im wondering if this could be the problem, If i block up the whole and the end of the pipe and give it a go or do i need this pipe in place?

Hope this sort of make sense

B,
as the saying goes a picture is worth 1K words...................

in the picture on the top you see the 3 air pipe connections above where the carbs seat its the one on the right.

Thanks

Borg,
take a look on the interweb for SUGRU , basically it is soft plastercine type moulding plastic that you can build with and it sets hard in 24hours . Buy a 6 pack of the stuff in black (about 8 quid if memory serves) and just "craft" back the bit that is misssing. Once it is hard it can be filed ,drilled etc. with no real worries ,although it is best to get the moulding right first time

You will get the drift of things from their "hackers" website, I have used it on mates car, the brats phone, some old geezers electrical plugs, all sorts .Ping me if you have any questions