FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

can I put yamaha r1 carbs on my 1994 fzr1000 ? my friends say they are 40mm and fzr original mikuni carbs are 38mm ....it's real ? they are very cheap on e.bay.de .....

and well it seems that it is possible by retrieving the cables and the throttle and the R1 to change at the pipes.
but it is still experimental.

You can do anything your heart desires... You'll have to space them to how they should be.. Then you'll also have to worry about the TPS sensor but yes its possible.

Too much work to make it worth while. The FZR carbs has the throttle cables in the center of the carb bank. The R1 has them off to one side. So you would have to take the carb bank apart then come up with the correct fittings to build it back to the correct spacing for the FZR. You would spend almost as much or more to build it to fit the FZR then you would to buy FZR carbs. The TPS sensor is a non issue. Because the FZR does not use it, then you don't have to worry about plugging it in. If you went the other direction though it would be a problem as bikes with TPS sensors do not like to run without it plugged in.

YZF750 carbs are the same size (with different jets) and would bolt on. The YZF1000 (Thunderace) uses the same size carbs as well but needs a little bit of work to get them on. Yamaha staggered the imports on the Thunderace for some reason.

What is wrong with your carbs? Or are you just looking for a little extra HP?

I need more power ....I like too much power wheeling ! I'm thinking about KEIHIN FCR 41 , Turbo ( I have a rebuilt SEAT IBIZA TDI turbine with A/R 0,33...) , cams ( yzf 750 r ? ) , ignition ( yzf 750 r or Vance e hines power pack ? ) ....,other....
what do you thinking about ? experience with keihin fcr 41 ?

The Keihin carbs will give you power, but not really usable for the street. Those carbs are more like an on / off switch. Lots of people have turbo'ed, used nitrous, or a big bore kit. Also, its not like using a set of performance carbs or a bigger set of carbs will give you a lot of power. The Keihin carbs are only good for about 10hp more. You would find less hp using the R1 carbs.

I would only do minor things like head work, cams, and coils. If you want real power go with a turbo. Just keep in mind that the FZR has a week point in the tranny and once you get above 150hp it usually turns to butter. Which is way you don't see much about nitrous on these bikes.

Ever consider going with a larger rear sprocket? That would certainly help you wheelie the beast easier.

ALSO based on where the oil pickup is in these motors, youre asking for trouble doing wheelies for any long time. The oil level sits to the back of the sump and youre sucking up nothing.. Then you end up spinning bearings... If you want to, Id make a baffle.. I brought this up over on Exupworldwide and we were coming up with ways to keep the oil circulating...

You can always convert to an FI set up which will deff add power. Along with what Rob(CAD) was saying about head work, big bore kit... You can reallyyy end up dumping alot of money into the head. you can go with over sized valves, a ton of time spent on a flow bench, degree the cams, get some redicolous cams with high high lift but honestly I'd stick with youre YZF 750 cams as Im going that route and for what it is, is probably best suited to street

You have a YZF 750 powerpak? that wont work on the exup but i would however send CAD600(Rob) a message as I bought his for an exup which was suppose to be for a 750 and I dont know if he needs it or not but i'd ask since its not doing you any good!

Jetting the carbs will increase the bikes preformance all around but its not like omg im going to be doing power wheelies in every gear...

If you want power, it cost $$$$$

Money spent on a dyno tuning the shit out of those carbs with a proper kit and mods and motor work is the best thing to do.

ALSO yes the 5 speeds are butter... GET those gears undercut and hardened if you plan on making REAL power ya digggg

cad600 wrote:The Keihin carbs will give you power, but not really usable for the street. Those carbs are more like an on / off switch. Lots of people have turbo'ed, used nitrous, or a big bore kit. Also, its not like using a set of performance carbs or a bigger set of carbs will give you a lot of power. The Keihin carbs are only good for about 10hp more. You would find less hp using the R1 carbs.

I would only do minor things like head work, cams, and coils. If you want real power go with a turbo. Just keep in mind that the FZR has a week point in the tranny and once you get above 150hp it usually turns to butter. Which is way you don't see much about nitrous on these bikes.

I'm not sure I translated what you said but I found a small can compare the large turbo FCR41 carburetors.

it's a big power gain but it's not as brutal a turbo

fcr 41 is good or not for power increase ? I found them at 500,00 Euro and I'm thinking for them ..... ; my target is 160/165 hp on rear wheel .

hello. you can't just bolt on the FCR's and expect to be at 160rwhp. Have you not been reading that they aren't the best carbs for street use due to them being finaciky and they are only good to a make of maybve 15hp.

enber wrote:my target is 160/165 hp on rear wheel

Buy a different bike. An R1 of GSXR1000 will be a better platform to achieve a rear wheel HP number like that. It can be done to a FZR1000, but you are looking to spend a ton of money on the engine to make it reliable at that HP range (I.E. - more money than buying a different bike and upgrading it).

To give you an idea, the FactoryPro Dyno numbers for a Thunderace (which is the same engine as a FZR1000) is around 115-120hp at the rear wheel with a jet kit and pipe. A 04-06 R1 stock runs about 140hp at the rear wheel on the same dyno. The R1 is just a better starting point. Plus it weights about 30lbs less than a FZR1000.

cad600 wrote:

enber wrote:my target is 160/165 hp on rear wheel

Buy a different bike. An R1 of GSXR1000 will be a better platform to achieve a rear wheel HP number like that. It can be done to a FZR1000, but you are looking to spend a ton of money on the engine to make it reliable at that HP range (I.E. - more money than buying a different bike and upgrading it).

To give you an idea, the FactoryPro Dyno numbers for a Thunderace (which is the same engine as a FZR1000) is around 115-120hp at the rear wheel with a jet kit and pipe. A 04-06 R1 stock runs about 140hp at the rear wheel on the same dyno. The R1 is just a better starting point. Plus it weights about 30lbs less than a FZR1000.

pretty accurate quote about power there. although when i had the Ace on the dyno (it did indeed put out 120rwhp) it was close to 100F and i had an issue with my exhaust being severely blocked, and apparently had a bit of wheel spin toward the topend... a few hours later a ?05ish(newer) R1 decided to have a go as well and managed 133rwhp.

Ya, the Thunderace has an advantage over the FZR1000 in a little better flow characteristics from the head, larger jets, and a TPS. All those things help get a little more out of the engine.

I like the Factory Pro HP listings. The way the Factory Pro system is suppose to work, if you take out inconsistent variables such as humidity, altitude, ambient temp, then any bike should run the same numbers no mater what shop the dyno is in. The DynoJet numbers can be altered by the person running the Dyno as it uses an algorithm to approximate HP. Not to say a DynoJet can't give accurate numbers, but there are a lot of "adjustments" that can be done. I talked with one performance shop owner near me about this for a while. He uses a DynoJet, but does not change any variables so his customers can see performance progress in mods that are done. He had one guy complain about the HP his bike was putting out so he showed him that by changing a few variables when the bike made a pull, he could affect the so called HP rating and make his bike show any HP he wanted to but that it wasn't real.

Fcr41mm carbs on a stock engine ...total waste of time, the power increase wont be that much verses the cost to buy them, setting them up and then the running costs they make your bike really greedy for fuel, you'd be far better getting your cams reprofiled (source race cams as i did),the head flowed 1st at the very least+ a good exhaust.

I run 41 fcr's on my own but tbh they dnt work all that great even on mildly tuned engines either but hey if thats the route you wana take get the engine mods done 1st after throwing bucket loads ov cash at my engine i understand your search for more power

Steve