FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

FZR 1000 (87) Genesis 42000 miles

Could do with some help on this one

From start up for the first 20-30 seconds quiet as a lamb, then it starts to rattle at the top end at low revs go over 2000 and it shuts up drop back down and there it is again.

Have changed the oil, filter, air filter, fuel filter. gave up trying to change the plugs.

Have taken talk to the local bike shop and they aren't sure but it sounds bad, as the oil pressure is at its highest when the bike first starts (Uhh, thought you build oil pressure up).

Lamb not sure but it could be shims or the timing chain/adjuster??

Any help would be great, the bike man says it engine out and needs to be split if the cam chaine is at fault and he reckons it will be about £600 to £1200 only paid £750 for the bike.

The bike runs fine and goes like a bat out of hell, dosent smoke or leak oil.

Thanks

if i were you i would look behind the motor closest to the seat, and remove thatcam tentioner and see if its fully released, if not then it might not be the cam chain, but either way thats as far as you can go with that, unless your taking the engine apart, then try a compresion test, if all are good, i would do a valve adjustement, well thats all you can easiely do just check your oil for metal also!

oh and if the bike blows up on you, sell me your plastics!

Hi Apsolus

Will take a look at that, the oil was dirty but no metal in it.

Thanks again, will try not to blow it up but if i do i will give you a shout, found a brand new left rear panel still in the yamaha wrapper at a bike sale, just got to find the rest now.

Thanks

does the sound resempble a deisel?

in other words, is it a constant frequency (tap tap tap tap tap tap _ )
or does it have a flappity tap flap flappity sound?
(I am laughing as i type this!!)

I know it goes away at higher revs, but which does it sound like at idle?

chris

Borg,
at 42K it is probably the valves / valve shimming.
If you are even reasonably mechanical that is some thing you can do yourself.
There is good group of UK fzr1K owners and some are Extremely good mechanics ( as in anoraks ) who can help out if you get stuck.
Your Profile says UK wanna try for North err South etc UK, I might be able to give you a direct link up if I had abit more to work with.
If you want you can PM a rough location

+1 to YG. Sounds like the valves need to be adjusted. At that mileage I'd also replace the stem seals and look at the guides...

I dont think it would be the Cam chain tensionor but I could be wrong... They're usually very strong on our bike and once their set they shouldn't need anymore attention... Unless there is the option that the PO thought hey let me loosen this... and well you know...fook something up...

Check the valves. As YG did its pretty straight forward, Just need to get yourself some long tappered feeler gauges if you dont already have some along with some basic tools and an afternoon and some shims...

Hi

Chris, would say its more of a tap then a flap, i know what you mean was reading you message and laughing as well.

MC Fizzer, Going to give the valves and shims a try, where is the best place to buy these parts?

George, im in North Devon, nice area in the summer a bit glum in the winter, like i said to MCFizzer will give the valves a go, the thing that puzzles me is that it does it after about 20 seconds, is that normal?

Im to be honest to Diy and bike maint, frank spencer. Iv got arteritis in most of my joints, but still can get around and ride.

Thanks to everyone who has got back to me for your help so far, they really are fantastic bikes i really love mine. always wanted one since i was about 18.

Thanks to everyone again

Have you tried balancing the carbs as mine was rattly till balanced raising revs a bit noise went

haha-- tap vs. clattery

clattery is chain (usually), and consistent rhythmic tap is valve train related (usually) -- if the rattle has a bit of a thump to it (you can feel it in the seat) it is piston or cylinder related (usually).

I just did 2 jobs, one was a complete head rebuild on an FJR 1300-- that was a low rpm tap which was valve related-- the valve guides were worn, and the valves in the 3rd and 4th cylinder exhaust ports were worn so that the valves were actually striking the seat asymmetrically as they closed. The other job was a cylinder rebuild - -that tap was more pronounced and was a piston slap in a big bore cruiser. in both of these cases it was a rhythmic tap tap tap tap tap tap.


anyway, not much helpful info, but just relevant to recent work.

Sounds like you need a valve adjustment. If you get a puff of smoke on startup then your valve guides are worn. If not, then they should be good. Could also be the clutch basket rattling around because the clutch fingers have been grooved. That is easy to check, just pull your clutch cover (right sie of the bike, its the cover that has the oil fill on it). Your pressure plate has size bolts which hold the springs and plate on. Take those out, then remove the pressure plate, be careful there is a washer behind the plate that slips over the clutch pushrod, dont lose it. You should be able to look at your clutch back without removing the firction plates, springs boss, and metal plates. Check for gouging and such on the fingers of the clutch basket. If you decide to take the plates out to look furthers just keep them in order and put them back in the same way they came out.

But, it really sounds like vavle tap.

One problem i had like this,turned out to be a loose flywheel.Worth a check,its only one bolt.

Hi

Thanks for all the advice, took it down to the local bike shop.

They checked the valves clearences and if anything they were to small, Cam chain was looking like it could be a problem. Asked him to regrind the valves and re shim, valve stem seals and replace the cam chain and tensioner.

He has checked the bottom end and says its not that, must admit when i walked in and saw it in bits i S**t my self.

Getting it back tomorrow i think so fingers crossed its all ok.

Will let you know.

Thanks

Well i went to pick up my bike and found it even more stripped dwn than when i last saw it.

Now the bad news, the Cam chain guide is shereded and the tapping noise has been found, its the chain that drives the alternator from the crank shaft.

Have been told parts are about £170 for chain and guide (no including the Cam chain or Chain tensioner)

I have already bought the Cam chain gasket set and tensioner + new plugs.

Have asked for a grand total and so far its at £800, feeling a bit sick at the moment, the only good thing is that once this is done it should be all ok all good.

So now we know, could have bought a second hand engine but that could have been a bit naff as well, the trouble is im not good at fixing these things myself so its mostly labour, at that price its time to learn i think.

Thanks again

well -- i would be willing to bet that the mechanic has never done such a job on your model either-- but, he is probably more experienced generally than you...
however
you can do it yourself, and actually take some time while you are doing it to check all the other things down there that you otherwise wouldn't have a chance to check up on-- make sure all is good, and then have an engine you are completely confident in. A factory manual will be a great investment.

we are all here to help you too!

chris