FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

1993 FZR 1000 Genesis 35,000 miles and in otherwise mint condition.

My Bike takes 20 minutes to crank when it's cold. I have to hold the throttle wide open to get it to crank.
Bike shop sais the carbs have no back pressure and needs rebuilt or replaced.

Does this sound right?

I can't find a rebuild kit nor a carb set to purchase.

HELP

These bikes can be a bit troublesome in the cold. I know mine can be but the last time i rode my bike it was 40 out and it gave very little trouble. Sounds like yours really just needs a cleaning and carb synch, which is quite easy albeit time consuming. It'll probably be good to replace the orings and seals on the carbs in addition to cleaning. Once synched, the bike will give you less trouble.

Well, the temperature hasn't gone above 65.

At what temperature should I expect this thing to crank? 75, 80?

The shop sais if they take the carbs apart they will need rebuilt minimum and possibly replaced. Yes the bike has 35k miles but it has been pampered and it is super clean.

I don't want to ok the shop to take the carb apart right before the riding season and get stuck with a $2000 bill and/or a bike that isn't running.

The bike runs fine, it just takes a set of jumper cables and 20 minutes of my time to start it for the day. (real pain)

If it is going to start working during the summer, I may wait until after the riding season to "open and inspect" the current carbs.

Of course, I dont' want to get stranded outside some establishment and get whipped up on because my bike wouldn't crank either...

Know what I mean?

EHH so once you get it going it runs fine?? And you need a set of jumper wieres to start it??
You need to find out if it is the carbs or a bad battery?
Are the plugs ok? Are the air filter cloged up?

2000 for 2 maybe hours of carb work? Big rip. If you have the tools this is something you can do yourself. You can order the seals from places like cyclepartswarehouse.com (for example) or your local yamaha dealership and clean and rebuild them yourself. You can give a good "garage tune" and synch the carbs yourself as well. I say all that because it sounds like that's all it needs. Where are you located? There might be someone on the forum who can help you out.

Umm,


Valve clearances.

It's got 35k (MILES) on the clock. .


Classic symptoms--- tight valve-hard cold start, once warm, runs fine.

Well, this shop may not be the best.

They said the valves are "a little chattery" but nothing out of the ordinary.
I'm guessing they didn't check the valves with a check tool.

I'll probably pull it out of that shop and look for another one for a second opinion.

The bike has brand new spark plugs and a clean air filter.
I'm wondering how they checked to see the carb doesn't have back pressure.

I'll let you guys know what shop #2 sais.

Thanks,

S

I have to hold the throttle wide open to get it to crank
so i dont get how to quote yet but you shouldn't hold the throttle open at all. when you use the choke it sends rich fuel to the engine. the reason for this is when the engine is cold the fuel wont atomize (trun into a vaper) and gas wont burn as a liquid. with the throttle wide open the choke is bybass and your engines getting nothing but air. the reason its taken 20 min. is because thats how long its taking for the engine to worm up. If i were you i would clean and sync the crabs. its realy not that hard just take your time and do one at a time. I could be wrong i've never mess with a 1000 before but thats my thought.

s7000 wrote:Well, this shop may not be the best.

They said the valves are "a little chattery" but nothing out of the ordinary.
I'm guessing they didn't check the valves with a check tool.

I'll probably pull it out of that shop and look for another one for a second opinion.

The bike has brand new spark plugs and a clean air filter.
I'm wondering how they checked to see the carb doesn't have back pressure.

I'll let you guys know what shop #2 sais.

Thanks,

S

Yeah, RUN from that shop.

a) carbs shouldn't have "back pressure"....and don't need it to operate (vacuum, yes..."back pressure", no). If that shop even uses a term like "back pressure" in regards to the carbs, they aren't smart enough to work on your badass 5 valve engine.

b) loose (noisy/"chattery") valves won't cause a crank (turn on the starter) but no start cold issue. (YOU say "..before cranking" and I assume you mean "before starting up"). If anything, according to my theory/diagnosis, you have one cylinder or more with tight valves. Excessive cranking before starting is THE classic symptom of tight valves.

im in the same boat as him...except i just did a valve job on mine and it still takes a hit of starting fluid to start.

It appears I may need to clean/re-sync carbs and get the valves adjusted.

Are you turning the choke on and then spraying starting fluid?

no just hitting it with starting fluid. i can turn the choke on and crank on it all day and it wont hit. im thinkin my choke circuit is clogged or something along them lines

Is your 'choke' (starter jet plungers) actually hooked up? If the little screw clamp on the end of the cables comes loose, your starter jets stay firmly snug in their beds...

Grab some carb cleaner, take them apart they are fairly easy, be careful though the stock screw heads can turn to butter if you don't use an impact screwdriver

Clean them out and you can get new gaskets relatively cheap on ebay

but...

It is almost definitely in need of a valve adjustment, see how it acts as the weather gets warmer and you'll know more, same problems mean that it's carb related