FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

i have a 1988 fzr 1000 that will not rev past 4000rpm. i recently put the motor in the bike after someone else rebuilt it and they never put the adjustment pads in and i didnt find out till after i started the bike. could i have damaged the cam? i put the pads in and have .006 intake .008 exhaust and she still wont rev. i hold it half throttle and she spits and sputters. i synced the carbs and rebuilt them so thats out. could it be ignition? she purrs like a kitten until i gas it, it starts rite up when hot or cold. it will go 80mph on 1/8 throttle but cuts out when i gas it and will not clear up. it feels like ignition. can i bypass the rev limiter?
chris squid

Fuel switch? I'm just guessing by the way. But I know that some of these bikes have a switch that tells the TCI that when the bike is in reserve mode as far as fuel goes. It is my understanding that when this is done, the TCI puts the bike into limp mode so that you can make it to a gas station. The only other things I can think of is the timing being off or your TCI being bad.

But then again, I really have no idea as I have no experience with the 1k engine.

Yeah, what Cad said as far as the not revving...that's my understanding of the 1k's 'reserve' position-cut's top end running in order to get your attention/conserve fuel til refilled.

As far as having 1/8" or so of valve lash...I doubt it could cause any damage to the cams...not very nice for the valves. As long as you didn't run it a LOT, it shouldn't be anything that caused long term damage. Had to make a terrible racket tho, I bet.

let me find out this bike is smarter then me! thanks guys. i will check it out in the am.
chris

Fuel reserve switch will make it miss but it'll still rev through the rpm range. Here's a question is it an 88 Genesis or an 89 EXUP? I ask because people sometimes mistake them. 89's had the exup valve in the header and if it gets stuck closed the bike won't rev past 4k rpm.

i believe its an 88. when i put the exhaust on there was no cable or servo. i bought the bike not running. its way to nice to push off a cliff! i ordered a title through the international title service and figured it to be an 88. after 4000 it cuts out, spits and sputters, cuould that be valves? it does it when cold and when warm, even if i choke it warm.
chris

Does it have a jet kit? If so, you may need to tune the carbs..

If its genesis motor then the motors is black.
Is your rev counter connected and running?
Spark plug leads and plugs can ground out if faulty cutting spark.
Check your main jets havent fallen out.
Do you still have airbox?
Are the carbs installed onto intakes correctly and the intake rubbers not split?
Are you sure the cam timing is correct and have the cams been out?

i looked and did not see an electrical reserve switch however i did see one unaccounted for black wire. i will research the harness today, thanks everyone, i will post if i get it running rite.
chris

I have owned (7) 87/88's 1000's and now have a 1990 I got cheap which is in "fix up" mode right now...

Wow, no valve shims. Makes the previous owner suspect, eh? I would guess you got the cam timing right when you put the pads in.

As far as the reserve system is mentioned I've never heard of "limp mode" and certainly mine never changed performance regardless of the amount of fuel in the tank.

Easy check first: Since the Digital Ignitor (as Yamaha so proudly printed on the label) has only the one pickup to determine crank position you might have the cams timed correctly on the top end/sprockets but it might be off at the crank, making the adavnce off or confusing the Ignitor. If you look at the factory manual you will see the sharp jump in spark advance- I would make sure the crank was set to the TDC mark and not the Firing mark when you reinstalled the shims... retarded timing makes engines start easily and run at low revs but not at higher RPMs. If you are not sure of marks a piece of wood (chopstick/pencil) inserted in the #1 plug hole while turning the engine slowly would allow you to create a cheap, easy "TDC tool" to make sure you are looking at the right mark through the timing hole- when the dowel starts to drop you have passed TDC. In the Bad Old Days that is how you had to set TDC on Triumphs, Nortons etc. - there was no crank position hole at that time.

Sounds more like fueling than anything else. I'd guess needle jets in some outrageous clip position or main jets way off- bigger is not always better and as long as the motor is running fine at low revs I'd say the cam/buckets are OK.

Brittus

Hough Racing wrote:i looked and did not see an electrical reserve switch however i did see one unaccounted for black wire. i will research the harness today, thanks everyone, i will post if i get it running rite.
chris

theres isnt one if its an 88, the reserve is on teh petcock(and they often dont work worth a shit cuz the tube will break off the petcock IN the tank)

are the headlights perfectly round?

brittus wrote:I have owned (7) 87/88's 1000's and now have a 1990 I got cheap which is in "fix up" mode right now...

Wow, no valve shims. Makes the previous owner suspect, eh? I would guess you got the cam timing right when you put the pads in.

As far as the reserve system is mentioned I've never heard of "limp mode" and certainly mine never changed performance regardless of the amount of fuel in the tank.

Easy check first: Since the Digital Ignitor (as Yamaha so proudly printed on the label) has only the one pickup to determine crank position you might have the cams timed correctly on the top end/sprockets but it might be off at the crank, making the adavnce off or confusing the Ignitor. If you look at the factory manual you will see the sharp jump in spark advance- I would make sure the crank was set to the TDC mark and not the Firing mark when you reinstalled the shims... retarded timing makes engines start easily and run at low revs but not at higher RPMs. If you are not sure of marks a piece of wood (chopstick/pencil) inserted in the #1 plug hole while turning the engine slowly would allow you to create a cheap, easy "TDC tool" to make sure you are looking at the right mark through the timing hole- when the dowel starts to drop you have passed TDC. In the Bad Old Days that is how you had to set TDC on Triumphs, Nortons etc. - there was no crank position hole at that time.

Sounds more like fueling than anything else. I'd guess needle jets in some outrageous clip position or main jets way off- bigger is not always better and as long as the motor is running fine at low revs I'd say the cam/buckets are OK.

Brittus

thanks for your input. i set the crank to tdc with a pencil and it was on the mark i have been using, however when i pulled the valve cover the cams were 180 out. could that be the problem? when i set them i never checked which was the key stroke.

Hough Racing wrote:thanks for your input. i set the crank to tdc with a pencil and it was on the mark i have been using, however when i pulled the valve cover the cams were 180 out. could that be the problem? when i set them i never checked which was the key stroke.

Your cams aren't 180° out...your crank is 360° out. (haha..I crack myself up)

but, it shouldn't matter as we have a 'waste spark' ignition. #s 1 and 4 fire simultaneaously, as do #s 2 and 3-which means each one of each pair is 360° from the other.

I think brittus is on track here, maybe you timed the cams with the wrong flywheel indicator..that would put you 10° or more off.

And if the bike has an 'advance kit' using an offset flywheel key....THAT must be removed and replaced with a straight flywheel key to properly time the cams.

If yo get a timimg light with advance mode, you can quickly double check the timing and move on if necessary.

your crank timing mark and cam timing mark wont line up everytime due to the 4 strokes it has to be on the no. 1 cylinder on the compression stroke i think the crank turns 2 times to the cam 1

reelrazor wrote:

Hough Racing wrote:thanks for your input. i set the crank to tdc with a pencil and it was on the mark i have been using, however when i pulled the valve cover the cams were 180 out. could that be the problem? when i set them i never checked which was the key stroke.

Your cams aren't 180° out...your crank is 360° out. (haha..I crack myself up)

but, it shouldn't matter as we have a 'waste spark' ignition. #s 1 and 4 fire simultaneaously, as do #s 2 and 3-which means each one of each pair is 360° from the other.

I think brittus is on track here, maybe you timed the cams with the wrong flywheel indicator..that would put you 10° or more off.

And if the bike has an 'advance kit' using an offset flywheel key....THAT must be removed and replaced with a straight flywheel key to properly time the cams.

If yo get a timimg light with advance mode, you can quickly double check the timing and move on if necessary.

i have a timing light but how do i know if it has advance mode. i do not see how a timing advance key can be added to the crank, where would that be? the mark i am using on the crank is just below the T on the crank veiw hole.