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FREE HORSEPOWER
Posted: Sat May 16, 2009 7:29 am
by mossy1200
Yes you heard it first here first.
Got to talking to guy that developed fzr race bikes 20 year ago and this is 4+ free horsepower.Its so simple.
The fzr1000 and owo1 has a design flaw.
The distance between tank shell and airbox entry is to small.
If you lift the tank front mount 6 or 7mm the intake air into snout increases with less restriction and more air comes under the front half of tank between frame and tank front area bottom edge.This air is cold and fresh and has nowhere to go but into the supply area of your airbox.Its not ram air but positive pressure air thats cool and fresh.
This is free horsepower.It wont show on dyno without large fans but it is there at speed.
Re: FREE HORSEPOWER
Posted: Sat May 16, 2009 1:37 pm
by ragedigital
Hard to get anything for free these days... good tech bit.
Re: FREE HORSEPOWER
Posted: Mon May 18, 2009 5:23 am
by chefen2006
A must do NOW thing. Good stuff. Thank you sir.
Re: FREE HORSEPOWER
Posted: Mon May 18, 2009 1:36 pm
by ofloinn3
Yes please ...I'll have what there having. Thank You!!!
Re: FREE HORSEPOWER
Posted: Mon May 18, 2009 2:34 pm
by Fartblood
Better than that - how about 15bhp for free?
The 1000EXUPs in the UK were restricted to 125ish BHP, by means of a little 'web' or 'half moon' in the inlet rubbers. Memeory fails me now, but IIRC it was in the rubber mount between the carbs and head. Carbs off, scalpel out, and remove the half moon so you have a nice smootch cyclindrical shap and power suddenly jumps to in excess of 140bhp, a marked and very noticeable difference.
Re: FREE HORSEPOWER
Posted: Mon May 18, 2009 7:03 pm
by mossy1200
Fartblood wrote:Better than that - how about 15bhp for free?
The 1000EXUPs in the UK were restricted to 125ish BHP, by means of a little 'web' or 'half moon' in the inlet rubbers. Memeory fails me now, but IIRC it was in the rubber mount between the carbs and head. Carbs off, scalpel out, and remove the half moon so you have a nice smootch cyclindrical shap and power suddenly jumps to in excess of 140bhp, a marked and very noticeable difference.
I have the derestricted model.You can also trim the rubber seal above filter until it is same size as the filter inside round.I have also cut top ovals on top of the snout.i have at this stage 140rwhp lineer dyno which is around 155bhp as the two are measured differently.Brake horse is the measure of the force required to break a holding rev and lineer is the measure of how quickly a fixed resistance can be speed up.1 lineer =1.1bhp approx.Yoshis going on now and dyno tune again so looking for more.
lifting the tank alows more fresh air between tank and airbox.The original height has very little clearance between the two.
will give results aftyer dyno of the latest mods.
Hope not flogging dead horse
Re: FREE HORSEPOWER
Posted: Wed May 20, 2009 3:24 am
by sbutler
Im doing a mod to the snorkel now. I will be drilling two BIG holes in the top right were it sits over the filter. This will need the carbs to be re jetted. But the old saying, more + more fuel= more power. I will be lifting the tank a little as well.
We have the base wheel HP figures, so as soon as i get it finisher I'll tell ya what we gained.
Re: FREE HORSEPOWER
Posted: Wed May 20, 2009 3:50 am
by mossy1200
sbutler wrote:Im doing a mod to the snorkel now. I will be drilling two BIG holes in the top right were it sits over the filter. This will need the carbs to be re jetted. But the old saying, more + more fuel= more power. I will be lifting the tank a little as well.
We have the base wheel HP figures, so as soon as i get it finisher I'll tell ya what we gained.
Hi Steve I got 2hp from two holes in shape of slot 25mm by 80mm each.These are half over filter and half towards snorkel entrance.
Have not dyno run since lifting tank as im doing yoshi headers so will need dyno once thats finished to get jets and gas mixture 100%.
Got my dyno base figures ready for overlap.Will post them.
The tank lift works best in flowing air so strong fans may be required to see the full effect.
I lifted mine by removing the front bolt from mount.
Then put bolt back in tank mount holes and sat it onto frame mount instead of through the holes.
I then got ally L shape that locks over front and used the two threaded wing mirror bracket holes and bolted the ally down.
Ended up 11mm higher at front.Then made spacers for under side tank rubbers.
Doesnt look a neat as original with the gap but if it works its good.
Re: FREE HORSEPOWER
Posted: Wed May 20, 2009 9:36 am
by Soaringman
I was surprized when I took my tank off that the holes that go through the frame towards the air box at the front are not lined up with holes in the air box.
Has anybody reading this cut 2 maybe 3 inch holes in the air box to line up with these holes in the frame ? I am sure at 100k
air would be rammed in to the airbox.
Re: FREE HORSEPOWER
Posted: Wed May 20, 2009 11:06 am
by sweekster
mossy1200 wrote:sbutler wrote:Im doing a mod to the snorkel now. I will be drilling two BIG holes in the top right were it sits over the filter. This will need the carbs to be re jetted. But the old saying, more + more fuel= more power. I will be lifting the tank a little as well.
We have the base wheel HP figures, so as soon as i get it finisher I'll tell ya what we gained.
Hi Steve I got 2hp from two holes in shape of slot 25mm by 80mm each.These are half over filter and half towards snorkel entrance.
Have not dyno run since lifting tank as im doing yoshi headers so will need dyno once thats finished to get jets and gas mixture 100%.
Got my dyno base figures ready for overlap.Will post them.
The tank lift works best in flowing air so strong fans may be required to see the full effect.
I lifted mine by removing the front bolt from mount.
Then put bolt back in tank mount holes and sat it onto frame mount instead of through the holes.
I then got ally L shape that locks over front and used the two threaded wing mirror bracket holes and bolted the ally down.
Ended up 11mm higher at front.Then made spacers for under side tank rubbers.
Doesnt look a neat as original with the gap but if it works its good.
Speaking of holes being drilled
....
Not sure if it's helping me any though.
Re: FREE HORSEPOWER
Posted: Wed May 20, 2009 1:56 pm
by mossy1200
Your about a quarter of the way Sweeks.
The frame tubes are not lined up and this is because they are designed to blow air under the air box.This keeps airbox base cool and carbs cool and provides air baffle that stops hot air rising up to air box intake.
I dont think trying to funnel ram you airbox is good plan with the CV carbs.I think you may end up with slides that wont want to go up and down correctly.
You would also end up with air intake on wrong side of filter.
You would be better off with twin pods and stage 3 jet kit and ditching the airbox.
Re: FREE HORSEPOWER
Posted: Fri May 22, 2009 7:18 am
by sbutler
sweekster wrote:mossy1200 wrote:sbutler wrote:Im doing a mod to the snorkel now. I will be drilling two BIG holes in the top right were it sits over the filter. This will need the carbs to be re jetted. But the old saying, more + more fuel= more power. I will be lifting the tank a little as well.
We have the base wheel HP figures, so as soon as i get it finisher I'll tell ya what we gained.
Hi Steve I got 2hp from two holes in shape of slot 25mm by 80mm each.These are half over filter and half towards snorkel entrance.
Have not dyno run since lifting tank as im doing yoshi headers so will need dyno once thats finished to get jets and gas mixture 100%.
Got my dyno base figures ready for overlap.Will post them.
The tank lift works best in flowing air so strong fans may be required to see the full effect.
I lifted mine by removing the front bolt from mount.
Then put bolt back in tank mount holes and sat it onto frame mount instead of through the holes.
I then got ally L shape that locks over front and used the two threaded wing mirror bracket holes and bolted the ally down.
Ended up 11mm higher at front.Then made spacers for under side tank rubbers.
Doesnt look a neat as original with the gap but if it works its good.
Speaking of holes being drilled
....
Not sure if it's helping me any though.
Well I just cut the top right out of the top of the snokle, now you can see right into the K&N got rid of all the snorkle. Its going on the dyno tomorrow hopfully. I'll have some results tomorrow night Aust time.
Re: FREE HORSEPOWER
Posted: Thu May 28, 2009 3:26 am
by sbutler
The bikes been on the dyno & get ready
ITS LOST POWER. Its got a big hole in the mid range & is only scratching to make any sort of decent HP!!!!!
We have gone from 122.5/125 main jets to 140s & it did respond. So we will be lifting the needles from the centre clip to as high as we can get them. To try & drag back some mid range. If that doesnt work, we will have to change the needles & pilot jets..
Re: FREE HORSEPOWER
Posted: Thu May 28, 2009 4:34 am
by mossy1200
sbutler wrote:The bikes been on the dyno & get ready
ITS LOST POWER. Its got a big hole in the mid range & is only scratching to make any sort of decent HP!!!!!
We have gone from 122.5/125 main jets to 140s & it did respond. So we will be lifting the needles from the centre clip to as high as we can get them. To try & drag back some mid range. If that doesnt work, we will have to change the needles & pilot jets..
wheres mid range hole etc and whats your gas analiser results like?
Re: FREE HORSEPOWER
Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 11:27 am
by sbutler
Thats a good number Mossy. My bike is run on a dynojet dyno which may come up with a defferent figure. But im 10+ hp down on your bike. Going by your numbers.
Do you have a torque/tractive effort sheet??
Is your Exup still in place??
My AFRs before were 13to14 so thats fine.
We are trying the tuning it on the rich side of normal this time.
If you look at the torque you'll see why my bike is so easy to ride. It make torque from 3000 & starts to fall at 10000.
