FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

After finishing my 88 fzr750 ru and bringing her back to original, it's time to get started on a second 88 fzr that I bought a few weeks back.
This one is a 1000. Plan for this one is to leave her naked and modify a tiny bit: shorter tail and cleaned up front. Nothing too crazy.




The engine on the bike didn't look great and had a mount broken off. Luckily the 1000 came with what appears to be a brand new engine.
So I began to disassemble to bike and swapped the engine.



The new engine cranks, which is good, but I am yet to check the compression.
Over the week, I will do the wiring. Not sure if I will keep the original harness or build from scratch. But most likely keep what I have and just tuck it away nicely.
Carbs are dropped off for cleaning and should be back next week. This will give me time to finish most of the bike and get her ready for a first attempt to start her.


More to come.

Looks like a solid project bike. Should be a lot of fun.
.

Hey Don,

Yes, you are right. Bike, now that it's disassembled, looks solid. Only had 4200 miles on it but looked horrible.
Project is not difficult, just replacing/rebuilding all seals, new lines, tires, sprockets, chain, fixing the leaky fork etc.
If I'm lucky, the engine is all good and doesn't require any work. I'll see in about a week when I try to fire her up. But from now on, it's basically putting everything back together, which is easy. Oh, and spending a lot of money on parts.
I'm hoping to sell my other fzr to finance this project though.

Question: what's up with the design to route the carb overflow tunes to the top of the engine?
Am I missing something?

Also, where are good places to put the coils? I will no longer have the front stay

saftie wrote:Question: what's up with the design to route the carb overflow tunes to the top of the engine?
Am I missing something?

On other models its the same.
The crankcases have a hole through both that drains to the bellypan and is then blown clean to some extent.

Yeah, but I mean the potential of fuel on a hot engine?
I'll probably reroute

The fuel level sensor in the tank on the later models gets to 2 or 3 times higher temp than crankcases ever do when at reserve level !
The headers are the hot bits....

Try old British iron that you have to tickle and flood to start if you wish to see fuel steaming off hot aircooled barrels......and it drips onto the magneto....

Not hard to replace with an extended hose if concerned.
Vent away from vicinity of rear tyre...

Great info, didn't know/never thought about it. Thank you.

Any ideas/tips on the coil relocation?
This bike will be naked. I think there are years/models where they put them inside the frame?
I guess I have to check if there is room under the airbox.

Here the latest on the bike. Engine is in, clutch slave rebuilt and installed. I also just cut the frame and seat. I am going to build a new sub frame at some point in future, for now I just leave it as seen in picture. Advantage is that I can still use all attachment points for coolant reservoir, fuse box etc etc.
I still need to clean up the end and make a cover that also carries the tail light.

My new digital speedo arrives today. This means I can wire up the bike again overy the next few days.

Added wiring again and finished it up in the rear.
Now the "fun" part begins where I have to take apart the front wiring to wire in my trail tech.
Did a quick check and starter works, neutral light as well. That's good news.
My fuel pump didn't make a sound, I'll have to check if it's a goner or if the wiring is messed up. But could be the pump itself. I'll test it in morning.
Next on list is compression check.

The ignition coils are relocated. I just fabricated simple mounts and put them below the radiator. Looks alright and clean.
Just need to extend the wires, no big issue though.

Did the compression test.
All cylinders are pretty much the same, around 180, #2 a bit higher at around 210.
Now, all readings are higher than what is in the manual, but the difference is only around 10%, what is acceptable and common I believe. #2 is about 20% higher. I'll do the tests again once I managed to fire her up.

That's good compression numbers for sure. I'm worried the coils won't have adequate ground mounted to the radiator?

Hmm, excellent point.
Since I have to run new wires to them anyway, it might be a good idea to add a ground wire? Where would that go? Either side of the mounting points ok?

Direct engine ground if your mounting them remotely, and make it a fat wire!