FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Brought my bike to the shop because it was running all wacky. No low end power, sputtering, sometimes would die. Tech found melted wiring and saw that the battery was overcharging, I think something like 15.5-16 volts at rev? Sent my alternator off to get fixed and hopefully they can, but he said that an oem alternator for this bike is $1500 . Do you guys know any reliable remanufactured ones that are not as absurdly priced?

In the german FZR-Forum ( http://www.fzr-forum.de ) there's actually a guy who would part out his Streetfighter.Modded FZR 1000 3LE ... he would give the whole Bike for around 1000 € + Shipment,but also selling it in Parts,maybe you should contact him for getting the working Alternator for a realistic price plus shipment
Link: http://www.fzr-forum.de/wbb/index.php/T ... chlachtet/
Most Sellers here in Germany don't have a problem sending parts to anywhere in the world if the parts and their Shipment is paid in advance, but mostly the want to get contacted before (if the Parts are sold via Ebay instead of Forums) due to checking the shipment costs, maybe customs costs (depending on the Parts Value if higher than a legal-without-customs-limit) etc.
Last Alternators for the Kilo FZRs i saw there where clearly and guaranted running ones with a price between 60 and 180 Euros depending on the milage ..not such bad-joking-prices like 1500 $ ..even new ones for racing-mods (lighter flywheels and so on) are around 800 € to 1200 € here in Germany...and these are definitely weight-optimized, not so heavy like the original ones (usually a reason for a higher price than the original ones)..

Edit:By teh way: Based on your description i guess its not the complete Alternator which is defect in your bike but only the Voltage Regulator, which here in Europe costs around 400 € at yamaha directly or via a yamah-dealer, because its sitting inside the alternator/generator..but its nevertheless nonsense to buy a new regulator if you can get a complete used working alternator including the regulator for much less than the price of the regulator

By the same token, shipping from Germany for a used regulator is probably less than for an entire alternator!

Thanks guys! Thankfully I was able to find a company here in the US that rebuilds them and got one for $200 with a 1 year warranty . Sadly though I live in Minnesota and winter is approaching . On another note, do you think my bike was running because I burned some electrical parts out with the regulator being bad? Or can too much voltage alone cause that?

With the losses in voltage in connections, wiring and kill switch, the TCI was probably not seeing that voltage and likely fine. The processors have a voltage regulator before them which flat lines the voltage to the processor and typically when they fail it's either short or open meaning your bike would not run at all. So my vote would be no, not directly because of over voltage, but maybe yes if the melted wiring was causing a voltage drop on the TCI supply circuit.


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Cool thanks for calming my worries. There was melted wiring right where the alternator wire came out and connected to the bike with the clip, had to solder on the new one. Hopefully should be riding again soon!

Cool keep us updated!


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The motorcycle gods hate me Got the remanufactured alternator on the bike and it was charging low at idle, then fine at revs. Then failed completely. So I need to mail it back to get repaired. My bike has been dead longer than it has been running this summer and now winter is here

Sounds like buying a complete (so including the VR) cheap and working used one here in Germany for around 80-140 € plus shipment would have saved you a lot of time+money...
By the Way: How old is the battery and which kind of battery (Acid? Gel? AGM?) is it? Maybe a defective Battery has been killing your VR and Alternator when it took to much current for charging over time due to a cell-shortcircuit..Acid Batteries have the highest risk of getting such shortcircuits over time,especially due to waterloss by overheating (not possible with closed Gel or AGM Batteries) or extreme lowest-discharging if unused/uncharged for a longer time...

I actually think now the alternator I have is fine. It charges until the bike starts to get hot then goes haywire. The bike is also draining batteries just sitting a couple days, and we checked some of the main engine wires and it's making connections places it shouldn't. It must have fried a lot of wiring from before when it was overcharging. Anyone know common places to look?