FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Hey 1st post.

So im putting an fzr1k engine into a Fazer frame. All the heavy lifting is done and as of now I can't get the clutch to completely disengage.

In order to do the swap I had to change out the fzr shift spindle to a fazer shift spindle. That required me to completely dissemble the clutch, so something could be off in there.

So far I can confirm that the hydro clutch is completely bled. I did another extensive bleed yesterday and there is much better response from the lever as well as slightly more disengagement from the clutch. Also yesterday I went in and smeared a ton of oil on all the plates of the clutch, they were definitely being stuck together.

Also worth noting is that I see the plates move within the basket when I depress the clutch lever. Movement seems good, but it's not completely letting go. There is a difference when i rock the bike back and forth in gear when I have the clutch in and out. So its disengaging, but not all the way.

Also also worth noting is the kickstand is up when I try to put it into gear

Where are some places where I can start to look at this issue? Anything I might have missed? Not my first bike build but def my 1st fzr.

Thanks all.

What do you mean by shift spindle?

Are they new plates?

might be the wrong term, but the rod that you use your foot to shift gears with. that had to come from the fazer.

Checked the wear on the plates, its within spec.

some of the lads on my site have had similar issues with the clutch (think it may have been DAN in particular). Check for warped steel plates in the clutch set up. Also EBC plates tend to be slightly oversize in thickness when new, causing drag. Also check the oil grade/viscocity

Oh and make sure the steel ball bearing is still in at the far end of the pushrod....good luck

I'll bust it apart and give it another look then i guess...

as far as oil, its yamaha brand 20/40

I re-read that post of yours. Am I right in thinking ita the gear lever adjustment arm thats been swapped? If so are you aware theres a centre mark on the end of the gear lever selector shaft that has to line up with the gear selector. if they arent in the right position it makes gear changes difficult...that said, it wont stop the bike creeping once gear is engaged

BTW, 20/40 seems a bit on the heavy side dependant on where you are. 10/40 is more suitable if your climate is similar to the UK

Thanks for the replys!

I think the gear selector is a good place to look given thats the new part, but you think thats the culprit here? Regardless if it isn't aligned properly, if the clutch was working properly I'd still be able to idle the bike while in gear?

As far as oil weight, I live in northern california. Its fairly cool year round believe it or not

the 20W is the viscoscity of the oil at its colder rating. if its cool outside the oil will need to be thinner to circulate hence the requirement for 10W. 20W is usually for warmer climates or in very old worn out engines. If the outside temp isnt warm enough to thin the 20w to running temp it'll cause the clutch to drag between the plates

changed oil to 10w40 didn't make that much of a difference, but i'll keep the 10w40 thanks for the suggestions.

went through the clutch again, the only off thing was the spring that sits after the 4th plate was in the wrong position, it was after the 3rd. Changed that and i did see a bit better movement but not complete disengagement.

The spring was pretty warped, think I should buy a new one?

Only thing I haven't done that i've seen posted around is soak the plates in oil overnight, lmk if thats the piece i'm missing.

The issue regarding soaking the rings usually refers to when a new clutch is installed. You didnt menetion if its new or the original item being refitted

Also the spring plate, many folk usually swap them for a standard steel one. Check the steels for warping on a flat surface. Try feeding a feeler guage under the edge when they're laid on a flat surface (pane of glass usually surfices if no surface plate is available)

unsure if the bike ran proper prior to me getting into it. parts bike and all, no idea of the history of the engine.

i'll replace the spring, but do you think thats the cause?

So i took the new wave spring out and tried again. Clutch works properly now.

Will my bike explode without the spring?

bike will be OK. The spring plate swap has been done by quite a few folk without any issues

Glad you got it sorted

The wave spring was included to counter-balance the clamping force of the coil springs, reducing the lever force needed. The wave spring was installed in a modified friction plate with a larger ID; this modified plate proved to be a weak point and the cause of many grenaded clutches. The clutch pack was redesigned at some point to replace the modified plate with a standard friction and delete the wave spring.