valve check

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Redoliander
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valve check

Post by Redoliander »

So I just ordered a new valve cover gasket so I can check the valves. I got this bike from a friend that had it in storage for the past 10+ years. He said he drove it into the storage unit. I haven't tried to start it up yet, just got my 600 running that I got from the same guy. As I understand you need a special tool to turn it at the crank. So instead I put it on a rear stand, put it in 5th gear, and spin the wheel. But when I spin it the cams aren't moving. And the wheel isn't too difficult to spin like my other bikes when in gear. What could be wrong?
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Stig
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Re: valve check

Post by Stig »

clutch plates may be stuck together as if its been in that situation for 10 years the oil will certainly have drained out the parts thats not immersed in oil
If its not broken it dont need fixing

http://www.exup1000.co.uk
Redoliander
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Re: valve check

Post by Redoliander »

So should I pull the plates and soak them in oil over night and retry it? When I move the shifter it feels like it goes into all gears. I can tell it is in neutral as the wheel spins somewhat freely like normal. When I put it in any gear it is a bit harder to turn but not hard like my other bikes.
Redoliander
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Re: valve check

Post by Redoliander »

I've never pulled a clutch and not sure what I'm looking at or for. I don't have a manual so I'm having to search the net for everything. Are the bolts that hold the springs supposed to be torqued? I can back them out with my screwdriver with ease. I'm not really sure what the clutch has to do with the bike going into gear and not moving the cams. If I roll the rear wheel a bit and pull up on the shifter I can feel the bike go into gear but its not moving the crank and cams. Am I missing something here?
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Re: valve check

Post by DonTZ125 »

The clutch is what connects the engine to the transmission; if the clutch is completely slipping, then the turning wheel (and transmission) won't turn the engine.

The torque for the clutch spring bolts is 5.8 lb.ft - VERY low. The threads in the spring towers are very easy to tear out, and you can't repair them with an insert kit.
Redoliander
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Re: valve check

Post by Redoliander »

Thanks Don. I was doing some more searching and read up some and understood about the clutch. When I was taking the bolts for the springs out I noticed I have 3 long springs and 3 short springs alternating. Is this normal? It also appears to be a billet basket. I was told from the PO that it has a 1040 kit in it. Is there a trick to getting the plates out and back in, in a certain way/order? What are the minimum thicknesses for the plates and the springs since I don't have a manual? And I should soak them overnight?
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Stig
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Re: valve check

Post by Stig »

Redoliander wrote: I don't have a manual?
theres a link at the top of the section about manuals...but in short theres a gen Yamaha one free to download at my site

http://www.exup1000.co.uk/tech/fzr1000r/index.html
If its not broken it dont need fixing

http://www.exup1000.co.uk
Redoliander
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Re: valve check

Post by Redoliander »

Got it figured out. The master wasn't getting any return flow when the lever was released. I could have swore it was before. So I'll have to pull that apart and clean it and might as well as do the slave. Might just buy the rebuild kits for them too. When I took the springs off the clutch plate there was some plastic washer material that was all broken up. Should I replace those? Can I just get some Teflon washers from the hardware store to put in between the spring and screw head? That's as far as I have gotten on the bike. Ive been working on my FZ6. New cam chain, cam sprockets, cam guide, valve adjustment, plugs, and coolant flush. Thanks for the help!
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