Bleeding bloody brakes

[coops]

Was reluctant to post here about air in the system but im bloody over it. Ive been pushing air out the master cylinder by spreading the calliper pistons with a screwdriver and getting heaps of air bubbles out the master cylinder. thinking I have success, a few days later...sponge. Mustive pushed 100 bubbles out in the last few weeks. I have R6 calipers and the standard splitter and don't know about the master cylinder except its not standard but it is Nissin.
Ive bled many brakes in my time but this thing is starting to take the piss. Ive read about bleeder banjos but it never had them before and ive spent that much time here I don't want too open the system again. My mate recently bought one of the vaccum bleeders, il try that next.
Just venting my frustration.

[~JM~]

The vacuum bleeders work great. Just make sure that you have plenty of new fluid to keep adding to the reservoir. If it goes dry & sucks any air, you have to start all over again. It really helps to have a buddy keep an eye on the reservoir & keep topping it off. The other option is to use a squeeze bottle full of fluid & feed it into the caliper until you overflow the reservoir. Be careful to have plenty of rags placed strategically to catch any brake fluid so it doesn't eat up your paint.

Here are a few instructional videos that you might find helpful. http://www.galferusa.com/motorcycle-bra ... on-videos/

Good luck
~JM~

[~JM~]

Oops... Double post.

Be prepared to find more bubbles a few days after you think that you're done. Just keep at it until you have good lever feel.

Good luck
~JM~

[dan83590]

Hmmm, I have never had a problem bleeding mine and I have a similar set up to yours. I used your standard type bleed kit with the non return valve, the type which pushes over the bleed nipple. Undo the nipple just enough to allow fluid to pass then pump like fook on the lever whilst keeping the reservoir topped up (it may help to have someone else do this bit for you).

Another way I have tried but this time on a car was to fit a tube between the nipple and the res. Again it is important to only open the nipple JUST enough to allow fluid to pass. Pump the brake until fluid is pushed all the way through the tube and back into the res, all the time keeping the end of the tube below the fluid level in the res. Once a full circuit is made pump the brake until no more bubbles come through. Once you have made the full circuit this way you can pump away for hours if you wished whilst not having to worry about filling the res constantly.

If you are still getting air in then you must have a problem with your braking circuit.

[DonTZ125]

Clamp / strap / zip-tie the brake lever against the bar overnight. It forces a LOT of the tiny bubbles out of solution and encourages them to form large bubble, that will more easily come out with bleeding.

[coops]

Clamp / strap / zip-tie the brake lever against the bar overnight. It forces a LOT of the tiny bubbles out of solution and encourages them to form large bubble, that will more easily come out with bleeding.

Thanks for the replys everyone.
Are you sure about this Don? I actually thought doing this had the opposite effect. by clamping and applying pressure overnight the air bubbles dissolve into the fluid, and gives the impression there is no air in system. Then a day or three later (if the bike is left sitting) the bubbles return with sponge. That's whats been happening with my brakes.
If I pump my spongy lever 20 times or so, the brake feels good again, then a couple of days later sponge.
I thought the bubbles were dissolving (like I said above)
Am I completely wrong here??? Probably am wrong cos I was really just guessing and making assumpsions and you know what they say about assumptions....Theyre the mother of all phukups HeHe
No, serious question here...Have I got it the wrong way round??

[~JM~]

I used the zip-tied lever trick & it helps. I only pulled the lever back halfway though. The zip-tie method is shown in one of those videos that I posted.

If you think bleeding the brakes is a P.I.T.A, try doing a hydraulic clutch. It's about impossible to get rid of the bubbles. I gave up & called it good when I had a good lever feel & the clutch operated cleanly.

Just keep at it over the course of a few days. Starting or riding the Bike will also help "vibrate" the bubbles to the top.

Good luck
~JM~

[DonTZ125]

I may be misremembering or misunderstanding the the mechanism at work here, but as jm testifies, it does work.

[~JM~]

Here is the 8 or 9 minute video with several tricks illustrated.
http://www.galferusa.com/bleed-brake-li ... torcycles/

Good luck
~JM~

[Exupblue]

Dos you try this ?? It really works !!

http://www.speedbleeder.com

All my bikes and the car Also have them !!!