FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Im converting a 89 street bike into race so im sussing the wireing out now.
What is the speed sensor in the speedometer? the wire runs back to the turn signal relay
And what does the clutch switch do? Am i OK just disconnecting these two circuits?
While im here, is there anything i must or mustnot do with the wireing?
Im just unpluging evrything except the tacho, temp gauge, oil light and going to wire it back to main harness later. And keeping right hand handlebar switch, just remove the lights switch from it. And keep ignition switch stock, with key.
Sound allright?
Cheers.

Total loss wiring diagram - 600

It's for a 600, but the idea is certainly there, and there won't be many changes. You have to do things to keep the TCI happy, or else it won't spark; the clutch and neutral switches are good things to keep if you plan on keeping the electric start - there are few greater embarrassments than having your bike start up without you on it, and toddle across the paddock to meet folks and make friends!

DonTZ125 wrote:Total loss wiring diagram - 600

It's for a 600, but the idea is certainly there, and there won't be many changes. You have to do things to keep the TCI happy, or else it won't spark; the clutch and neutral switches are good things to keep if you plan on keeping the electric start - there are few greater embarrassments than having your bike start up without you on it, and toddle across the paddock to meet folks and make friends!

I dont want to go total loss at this stage for a few reasons i wont go into here. I did plan on keeping the neutral light just for the hell of it. And starter motor.
So my origonal question stands about the clutch switch and the speed sensor. Speed sensor!! what the hell is that? Well im not sure if its a speed sensor as i can hardly read the wireing diagram im looking at. It is a pair of wires that comes out of the speedo (not meter lights)
And what is the clutch switch for?
Cheers.

The reed switch in the speedo is for the self cancelling turn signals, and can be safely yanked.

The clutch switch is part of your safety interlock system. If you're keeping the electric start, I'd suggest keeping the clutch switch as well. Leave the main relay assembly alone, it's got your fuel pump relay, the starter cut-out relay, and the diodes for the safety interlocks and the oil lamp self-test. Jumper out the sidestand switch, or the engine will quit every time you put it in gear!

Since the 1k alternator has an internal regulator, adding it to the diagram is just two wires to the battery.

DonTZ125 wrote:The reed switch in the speedo is for the self cancelling turn signals, and can be safely yanked.

The clutch switch is part of your safety interlock system. If you're keeping the electric start, I'd suggest keeping the clutch switch as well. Leave the main relay assembly alone, it's got your fuel pump relay, the starter cut-out relay, and the diodes for the safety interlocks and the oil lamp self-test. Jumper out the sidestand switch, or the engine will quit every time you put it in gear!

Since the 1k alternator has an internal regulator, adding it to the diagram is just two wires to the battery.

Awesme Don thanks. That all sounds good.
Except it didnt get the last bit about the 1k alternator with an internal regulator?

The alternator needs no external regulator to operate, it's more like a newer car alternator that that only requires two wires. It's way simpler is what DonTZ125 is trying to say. does that answer the question?