FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Hi All,

I'm brand new to the forum. Over the weekend I bought a 1990 FZR 1000 - pretty damn excited! Its going to be a work in progress, but the winters here are made for garage projects. One of the first things I want to take care of is the cracked/broken rear plastic set (its a bit beyond repair); can anyone tell me if there is another model year I can swap one out with? I want to know what options I can look for on craigslist and at the salvage yard.

I'm also interested in lowering the footpegs a bit but don't want to drop 300 on a rearset kit. I'm 6'2" and need my knees to come down about an inch to fit comfortably in the tank insets. I've seen this option online (http://www.whaccessories.com/FootPegLoweringKit.htm), but is there a cheaper alternative? Perhaps some incredibly low-profile pegs that I should know about?

Thanks all.

KonaTheHusky wrote:Hi All,

I'm brand new to the forum. Over the weekend I bought a 1990 FZR 1000 - pretty damn excited! Its going to be a work in progress, but the winters here are made for garage projects. One of the first things I want to take care of is the cracked/broken rear plastic set (its a bit beyond repair); can anyone tell me if there is another model year I can swap one out with? I want to know what options I can look for on craigslist and at the salvage yard.

I'm also interested in lowering the footpegs a bit but don't want to drop 300 on a rearset kit. I'm 6'2" and need my knees to come down about an inch to fit comfortably in the tank insets. I've seen this option online (http://www.whaccessories.com/FootPegLoweringKit.htm), but is there a cheaper alternative? Perhaps some incredibly low-profile pegs that I should know about?

Thanks all.

Hi,
about the seat would help us to see wether it really is beyond repair we(most members) use plastex to fix stuff (my front fairing has done 140MPH + and is still together.

Re the foot pegs a 6mm alloy plate inserted between frame and the original foot pegs will make an ideal lowering kit (I'm 6'2" and 90Kg .) and have done this on countless bikes.

What I do to get the position right and the holes to match up is use 6mm MDF which is easy to drill and shape with a Jig /sabre saw & a course file.
Once the spacer is correct for you double sided tape it to your alloy plate and cut round it with the jig saw after drilling the holes. Smooth the whole thing off with afile and buff to a hi-shine or powder coat/ spray to match the frame (peugeot silver ??)

yamaha_george wrote:
Hi,
about the seat would help us to see wether it really is beyond repair we(most members) use plastex to fix stuff (my front fairing has done 140MPH + and is still together.

Re the foot pegs a 6mm alloy plate inserted between frame and the original foot pegs will make an ideal lowering kit (I'm 6'2" and 90Kg .) and have done this on countless bikes.

What I do to get the position right and the holes to match up is use 6mm MDF which is easy to drill and shape with a Jig /sabre saw & a course file.
Once the spacer is correct for you double sided tape it to your alloy plate and cut round it with the jig saw after drilling the holes. Smooth the whole thing off with afile and buff to a hi-shine or powder coat/ spray to match the frame (peugeot silver ??)

Thanks Yamaha_George!

I'll grab a photo of the rear center plastic - there's a chunk broke off and I don't have the pieces. However I have a few extra plastics that I may be able to graft onto the thing, unless that's so difficult its unfeasible. I'll also check into platex around here; amazon.com has some for 29.99 USD.

The alloy plate sounds like a brilliant idea; what type of alloy do you use and where's a good place to get a plate? The MDF I assume I can get at a craft store...

Hi,
MDF is what junk furniture is made of, so finding scrap bits is easy , most warehouse DIY centers have 6mm thick MDF board
As for Alloy PlateI get T6 (quite hard) 6mm Plate actual Alloy code numbers do not really matter at this point since you are not bending it or welding it. T6 is hard enough to fille (rub some kids school chalk on the file first stops the alloy sticking in the file teeth)

Sources Hmm stateside not sure the guys that side of the pond may know, if you get stuck take a look at :-
http://www.nogginend.com the owner is Mike and although he usually supplies the UK tell him I referred you & he might ship direct if not (he does shows and can get VERY busy ) let me know I will buy enough for you and ship at what ever it costs me and you Paypal me direct then OK
Good luck.

Thanks so much for the offer, but I was able to find some 1/4 inch thick (6.35 mm) T6 Aluminium flat bar on the US-ebay. I assume this will suffice although it's not exactly 6mm? There's a bit of shipping cost attached to it so I'm gunna shop around locally before ordering to see if I can cut out the freight fee.

Thanks so much for the advice! I'll be sure to take photos of the process. Should be good for a laugh.

As far as the rear plastic, I'm gunna hit up a local motorcycle salvage yard before ordering the plastex (I've never enjoyed working with gluey goop, so I'll leave that as a last resort).

KonaTheHusky wrote:Thanks so much for the offer, but I was able to find some 1/4 inch thick (6.35 mm) T6 Aluminium flat bar on the US-ebay. I assume this will suffice although it's not exactly 6mm? There's a bit of shipping cost attached to it so I'm gunna shop around locally before ordering to see if I can cut out the freight fee.

Thanks so much for the advice! I'll be sure to take photos of the process. Should be good for a laugh.

As far as the rear plastic, I'm gunna hit up a local motorcycle salvage yard before ordering the plastex (I've never enjoyed working with gluey goop, so I'll leave that as a last resort).

Hi
PLASTEX is just smelly stuff but a doddle to use not a bit like you Imagine If you check my Sacriledge pages on my web site there is a whole page of what I did and you should see just how easy it is to use.

I would get on with the MDF work while you hunt up the alloy 1/4" or 6mm no real difference of any significance

As George has stated about footrest adaptors or known as jack up plates;If when you make the template you drill numerous pairs of fixing bolt holes in a regular pattern, when fabricated you can adjust them ad lib.Would post photos of mine but am inept at that-just google "Harris adjustable footrest plates" images and youll get the idea straight away.

willandrip wrote:As George has stated about footrest adaptors or known as jack up plates;If when you make the template you drill numerous pairs of fixing bolt holes in a regular pattern, when fabricated you can adjust them ad lib.Would post photos of mine but am inept at that-just google "Harris adjustable footrest plates" images and youll get the idea straight away.

Hi,
well I have a web shot of a pair of my multi-adjust jobbies at:-

http://www.saltmine.org.uk/kgb/yp6.html
I do not usually do this way except on customer bikes so they can "play" with the settings once they have made their choice I use just the holes used to make the plate again first out of MDF so the owner says Yup thats it then make the alloys (wasted too much time with out the MDF check with numpty new owners :-}

Them's just the ticket George,very tidy job.
Like yourself I get great satisfaction of picking up what others seem unable or unwilling to fix for pennies and refurbing on the cheap. Harris as you state are very overated and flimsy.Seems like every company that started with top notch gear has allowed standards to slip over the years.