1988 project

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TomcatMJ
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Re: 1988 project

Post by TomcatMJ »

These headlights remind me a bit to the Front of a german Sanddrag Racerbike (viewable at http://www.sanddragracing.de/ ) ;)
Well fitting to the rears mod, but i guess it could be optimized with another steering bar..dragbar perhaps?
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saftie
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Re: 1988 project

Post by saftie »

I might do that (handlebars). Just wanted to get the bike somewhat in the right direction, working on all the details will follow later :)
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Re: 1988 project

Post by saftie »

I have done some rerouting of the wiring harness to clean up a bit. While I had the fuel pump out, I hooked it up to a battery for testing. It works.
However, when on the bike, I don't hear that 2 second prime sound. I have not yet tested whether it works and pumps fuel or not.
Any ideas what to check next? I don't think there is a relay or fuse just for the pump?
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Re: 1988 project

Post by TomcatMJ »

Usually there IS a separate relay for the fuel pump..if i remember correct it should be the one in the middle at the left side of the usual rear. In your case obviously not at that place anymore, so a follow up along the wires should show up which relay it is.
"The social dynamics of the net are a direct consequence of the fact that nobody has yet developed a Remote Strangulation Protocol." -- Larry Wall
Want Pics? Then have a look at my galleries...different topics: Bike and Car restauration, exhibitions, Trackdays (no, not me on the Track until now), carneval in cologne, other things.. ;)
saftie
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Re: 1988 project

Post by saftie »

Thanks. I just had a quick look and yes there is. Thanks for that. I will test the relay tonight, just need to figure out how. If not, the manual explains how to test the connector.
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Re: 1988 project

Post by saftie »

Then there is the front brake like switch that doesn't trigger. I tried both, a new one as well as the original setup. No luck yet. Rear works, so it's not the tail light.
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Re: 1988 project

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Testing a 4 contacts relay is quiet simple: Theres a coil (2 contacts) inside which, if a current is runing through, activated the magnetic switch inside (which are the other 2 contacts)...you can check with a multimeter (resistance measurement) if the coil is intact and when you give a current to the coil (with help of the battery for example) you can check if the switch part switches. If the relay is a 3 contact relay, then one of the connectors from the switch is combined with one of the coils, no big deal to figure out with help of the multimeter which one is the combined contact, which is the second coilcontact and which is the second switch contact ;)

For the brakeswitch, check the connectors for cossorsion and if there is some corrosion inside, just use a small brass-brush or contact-spray to clean them properly and the connection will be a lot better so that the switch itself should do its job again ;)
"The social dynamics of the net are a direct consequence of the fact that nobody has yet developed a Remote Strangulation Protocol." -- Larry Wall
Want Pics? Then have a look at my galleries...different topics: Bike and Car restauration, exhibitions, Trackdays (no, not me on the Track until now), carneval in cologne, other things.. ;)
saftie
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Re: 1988 project

Post by saftie »

Btw, I took the bike for a quick spin down the alley two days ago. Clutch works well, bike runs nicely. Carbs don't need too much adjusting i think. Just the sync for now, color check on spark plugs after a few miles. Or I just use my color tune to check where I am in regards to air -fuel mixture.
Access to plugs is painful, but I am still running distilled water at the moment anyway and removing the radiator is less messy.

Anyway, the short tail allows a lot of dirt to get thrown up and on my back. Thinking about adding a fender at the rear wheel, just like this:
http://www.fz09.org/forum/attachments/2 ... 090109.jpg

Problem is the attachment, I am not a big fan of attaching stuff to the axle nuts. Maybe have something welded onto the swingarm, but it's tricky because of the material.

And the exhaust is pretty close and my heels touch easily. Will need to see if I can move up the pegs a bit.
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Re: 1988 project

Post by TomcatMJ »

Hm, guess a chainguard-attached rearfender might not really help: http://www.ricambiweiss.com/HINTERRADAB ... S-600.html
But perhaps a numberplateholder used as a rear-mud-protector might be a solution: https://www.louis.de/artikel/protech-ke ... e/10018175
"The social dynamics of the net are a direct consequence of the fact that nobody has yet developed a Remote Strangulation Protocol." -- Larry Wall
Want Pics? Then have a look at my galleries...different topics: Bike and Car restauration, exhibitions, Trackdays (no, not me on the Track until now), carneval in cologne, other things.. ;)
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Re: 1988 project

Post by saftie »

Not sure. I'll have to think about it.
For the side mounted license plate, I think I am going to drill and tap two holes into the swingarm, after the axle. Just need to see of this would interfere with the tensioner and if the side wall is thick enough.
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Re: 1988 project

Post by saftie »

Works...
With plenty of room inside for wheel adjustments

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Re: 1988 project

Post by TomcatMJ »

What about placing rivet nuts inside the holes instead of screws or threaded bolts? Might give a cleaner look to the swing arm finally ;)
(TÜV here in germany might be scared about drilling any holes inside the swing arm even when its in a non-relevant position, but with rivet nuts they mostly think it might be original like that :D )
"The social dynamics of the net are a direct consequence of the fact that nobody has yet developed a Remote Strangulation Protocol." -- Larry Wall
Want Pics? Then have a look at my galleries...different topics: Bike and Car restauration, exhibitions, Trackdays (no, not me on the Track until now), carneval in cologne, other things.. ;)
saftie
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Re: 1988 project

Post by saftie »

Thought about it but I'd be concerned about strength of those rivets, especially when wind hitting the plate and creating a force.
And yes, the bike wouldn't fly in Germany. In the US it's a different story....

I will shorten the bolts once bracket is on and end it off with those cap nuts for a clean look
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Re: 1988 project

Post by saftie »

To get a valid inspection in the US (at least here in the state of NY), you go to a motorcycle shop. They check tire thread, if all lights work and horn. And that's about it. Costs 6 dollars and takes less than 5 mins.
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Re: 1988 project

Post by saftie »

New fuel pump relay came in and that fixed it. Pump is now priming.

Hooked up running and brake lights. Two led strip that also serve as turn signals.
A relay takes care of controlling the dimming on the led. Full light for brake, running lights are dimmed at 50% or something like that.

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