Name that noise!

[TomcatMJ]

Oh, then it seems to fit perfect (or as we say here in Germany "Wie die Faust aufs Auge"<-"like the Fist on the Eye")

[Jordan_Ciaramitaro]

I can't wait to use that quote in my next meeting at work! Haha!

Just noticed your edits.


I did not rejet the bike, however, the mains are not the originals,but they either have no markings or are worn off.

I installed a set of carbs from a 1999 r1 over the weekend which made it run a lot better. However, they need some tweaking, my seat of the paints analysis says rich at idle/low throttle. Lean at mid range, rich again at wot until the rpms are around 11k. But these carbs do not have the worn emulsion tubes like the originals that were on there.

The knocking noise is still there, and it still goes away when revved. I say revved, but probably not the best word. More like bumping the throttle. When I idle it up to around 1400 rpm the sound is gone, but with an already suspected lean mid range, this makes the revs very slow to come down to idle when driving.

[TomcatMJ]

Slow coming down? I had teh same when the carbs of my 3BF had run ways to rich...readjusted the Problem was away...also it was a lot easier to get the proper idle-rpms with the idlescrew then before when i readjusted the mixture.
Which position has the nedle-clip actually? Maybe for the lean area in the middle-rev-range you will have to set it one position higher deeper (one more in direction to the needles top tip, so that less more fuel will be let in in the mid-range) additional to the mixtures readjustment...
Edit:The german quote above is usable for situations where something randomly chosen fits unexpected perfectly and would completely be "Passt ja wie die Faust aufs Auge!"

[kolederacer]

When you put it all back together did you check all of the teeth on the drive gear and on the clutch? I had one that was chipped and it sounded about like that. also i would check the rod and crank bearings to make sure something did not get into one of them.

[Jordan_Ciaramitaro]

I will eventually double check the drive gear, the new(used) clutch gear is good.

The rod bearings didn't have excessive play.

I have noticed the noise on deceleration at low speed,
low gear too. Low speed high gear no noise, any acceleration and no noise.

When I first got it, it had trouble starting as the starter clutch was slipping.

I am almost certain the noise is in the transmission, starter clutch, hyvo chain or crank drive gear.

I have put around 4000 pretty hard miles since this video.

[TomcatMJ]

For all the people interested in an EXUP-Terminator / EXUP-Dummy who found this Thread within the Boards Searchroutine: I attached a rearranged Version (optimized for easier soldering on Stripboards or Drillingboards from your local Electronicparts Dealer) of the Schematics linked on Page 1 of this Thread... this was my first try of using gEDA, and accidentally, just after exporting it to a png-File from the Schematicseditor the Layoutroutertool scrambled my Schematicsfile to /dev/null ...shit happens

And for the ones not able at least to use Translationtools from the Net, here is a little Translationlist for the relevant german Vocabulary used this Schematics:
schwarz=black
rot=red
weiss=white
gelb=yellow
blau=blue
Datenblatt / Datenblätter beachten=take Attention to the Datasheet / Datasheets (of the named Transistors, especially to maximum Voltage+environmental working Temperatures for using these transistors)
Potiwert (=Potentiometerwert)=Potentiometer value, the value the TCI recieves form the schematic instead of the original Servomotors Potentiometer(variable resistor) which normally tells the TCI the actual Position of the EXUP-Servomotor
gegenprüfen= crosschecking / supervisory checking (which in the written context will state that i had taken the information from the servicemanuals as i don't have an EXUP in my FZR 400 A, so an additional check if the colors are correctly assigned and not accidentally mixed up and wrong assigned would be a good idea )

For CONN1: Either take the original Connector from a defective EXUP-Servomotor and connect it as shown by the signalnames / wirecolors or build an adaptor with 5 pins as needed...or even solder the wires directly to the Input+Output Lines as shown in the schematics
At last: I don't give any warranty to this Design as it was just a rearrangement of the original design (derived from the already linked schematics), but i guess it should work if properly soldered as shown in the schematics...

[Jordan_Ciaramitaro]

Very cool, thank you!


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[Jordan_Ciaramitaro]

So the old girl was due for an oil change and I decided to make investigate the noise a bit further.

I pulled the cover and inspected the teeth on the crank again and could only find one spot that appeared abnormal.

I also took some video with it running with and without the clutch basket. The noise goes away entirely without the drive gear installed. Obviously I only run it like that for a second because of no oil pump without it installed.
https://vimeo.com/149473992

https://vimeo.com/149474080




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[TomcatMJ]

Looks like a Metal Flake had biten into this tooth....i guess plasticmetal would not work in this place to refill the little gap, but perhaps welding a litle spot of metal in this gap and attentional grinding back to usual measurements might work to refill the unwanted gap. And its definitely time to check where the obvious biter came from and where its left now....even to ensure it doesn't bite again somewhere in the gears, the bearings or, worst case, pistons/piston rings/ cylinder ...

[Jordan_Ciaramitaro]

When I got the bike, the clutch was exploded. I removed the oil pan and cleaned the engine thoroughly. Removed pick-up tube, valve cover, starter, alternator to clean and check. It seems most all of the bits were contained in the clutch compartment and #4 crank lobe housing.

Here is the clutch I removed .




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[TomcatMJ]

Ouch.bet it was one of the broken parts which bited the tooth then before you removed the parts....hope it is not still in the motorcase hidden somewhere, perhaps another cleaning (if enough gaskets available) just to be sure that nothing bites somewhere in again might be better than only hoping its clean for now.

[Jordan_Ciaramitaro]

Might be too late now, it's been over 5000 miles and two oil changes since I fixed it. I just got my yzf600 project running so it may be time to tear this engine down


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