94 Fzr 1000 NOT STARTING

[Bratman3401]

I am working on my cousins 1000 i have a 600 but they are not alike sadly. He got this bike in a trade NOT running and he gave it to me too fix up. I got everything wired up what seems to be right and when i push the start button the oil light comes on and it will not even think about turnning the starter so of corse being the country boy i am i used a screw driver and got the starter to spin touching the solinoid ends together.

The starter spins but it is like its not engaging on anything. I am using my 600 battery but it is an upgraded yzf one so it should have enought juice and i read that can have something to do with it. But the starter spins extremely fast. Just dont think its hitting anything. I looked inside the hole where the starter goes and i see a big gear in the looks like it should hit it but its driving me crazy not knowing!
Any help would be appreciated i wanna get this thing out of my garage!!!!

[yamaha_george]

hi,
not absolutly certain of this but I believe there is a solonoid that controls the in / out movement of the starter shaft to engage the engine.
What you are doing seems to be the bit that spins the starter but NOT also engaging the shaft thrusting bit. The wiki has wiring diagrams & trouble shooting flow charts forb the Ik bikes.

PS PLEASE put your location in your personal details area, ther may be someone close to you who can help out.

[haro504]

is the right control switch the run switch working fight sometimes mine gets coroded and it wont turn over i have to switch it back and forth a few times. have you checked the staring gears i dont know if these bikes have them but i assume they have some sort of throw out gear for starting i would take apart the covers and look for what might be a problem if its been sitting it might be gummed up. sorry i know engine function but i havent taken a fzr apart to see the inside to know what the problem is

[brittus]

First a Picture: http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_section_d ... 0&fveh=369

George might be thinking of an old Yamaha Virago or Vision, or perhaps a Honda FT500 Ascot- other than Harley no manufacturer uses Bendix-type solenoids in the starter system any longer- weak batteries mean poor engagement, cause ring gear wear and takes up space when designing an engine, plus at the very time the battery is asked for it's full cranking amps some of that power goes into the electro-magnetic throw of the starter pinion gear into the ring gear... reminds me of some old Dodge slant-sixes I used to hear- spin, miss, engage, catch a gear tooth and slide off, chewing it up a little more- then even a new starter and battery isn't enough and you have to replace the ring gear, which is more money and work...

The FZR1K has a 3-dowel Sprague-type starter clutch that freewheels when the engine is turning but when energy is applied from the starter motor through the input sprocket (item #12) and the engine is not turning, the three dowels are pushed into the idler hub by spring assemblies (items #6 & 7) and lock up, turning the crank through a chain (item #20) which runs around the crankshaft itself. The same chain powers the alternator as well, and there is a chance this chain has broken- Honda 700 NightHawk S's had this problem. No starting, could be bumped, but the battery dies from lack of charging. I have never heard of this chain failing on a FZ700/750/1000.

Most likely a weak battery isn't/hasn't been spinning the starter fast enough to wedge the dowels into the idler- use a car and jump it- if they catch the idler and turns the motor, it could be battery, poor electrical connections (cables/large relay), dirty starter motor brushes/commutator. Worst case scenario is this has gone on for a while and the starter clutch outer assembly (item #4 in diagram) now has damage in the spring channels and the dowels are cocked or only one or two are free to move. The springs & caps are prone to get dirty as centirifugal force builds sludge (from lack of oil changes) into the channel and pack the springs. I have seen this many times on many brands/bikes.

I think you can service the starter clutch internally through the clutch cover and sump- it's a bit of work but not impossible. Unless you're on the cheap replace all the Orings in the oil pump/pipes you'll have to remove to get at the starter clutch.

good luck

Brittus

[lunchbeast]

I think you can service the starter clutch internally through the clutch cover and sump- it's a bit of work but not impossible. Unless you're on the cheap replace all the Orings in the oil pump/pipes you'll have to remove to get at the starter clutch.

Sorry to pile onto the end of a dormant thread, but I was wondering if anybody has been able to confirm what Brittus suggested - that the starter clutch can be serviced without pulling the engine (on an FZR1000)?

[wheily]

my hanes shows it comes out threw top of moter as in total disasimbol i been push startin mine for two months i rockit back in gear and hear the starter spin some times

[lunchbeast]

my hanes shows it comes out threw top of moter as in total disasimbol i been push startin mine for two months i rockit back in gear and hear the starter spin some times

Thanks wheily - I've got the FZR1000 shop manual and that's basically what it shows too. Really really bad design.

I described this problem (failing starter clutch on FZR1000 that the internet community and my shop manual says requires pulling engine and splitting cases) to three different people (service manager, parts guy, and one of the mechanics) at my local dealer, and all three told me this wasn't true - each said they fix these all the time and there was a repair kit that took about two hours to install for roughly $250 including parts. I'm thinking "OK, they know something I don't (happens a lot) or they have some special Yamaha tool that makes this job easy, or they're just all full of crap."

Anyway, since I heard the same thing three different times from three different people at a Yamaha dealer, figured they couldn't all be wrong. I got a friend to take time off work with me and he followed me over to the dealer to drop my bike off. I confirmed again what I researched, and the mechanic again confirmed, while pushing my bike back into the shop, what they'd said before - easy job, roughtly $250.

Well, you can probably guess what happened next - turns out they're all full of crap. Early next morning, I get a call from somebody at the dealer apologizing for the mistake they made, saying they didn't realize the engine had to come out of the bike and be split down to the crank, and if I wanted the work done it would be around $1700 plus parts, and they felt so bad about their mistake that he had been authorized by the service manager to offer me a free oil change.

I told the guy an oil change was pretty lame given I tried to tell them that and that I was assured by three different people there, including the service manager, that I was wrong. I went back and got my bike and now I'm back to trying to decide if I want to do this myself or not.

[wheily]

if the things in ur starter clutch are just sticking (maybe) ua might try some sea foam and see if it helps. i find my bike fires up pretty easy push starting it in second gear. im buying parts slowly and just going to rebild hole engine cense it got to be tor down any ways. but i gota fix my truck first bike only thing left that runs

[lunchbeast]

if the things in ur starter clutch are just sticking (maybe) ua might try some sea foam and see if it helps. i find my bike fires up pretty easy push starting it in second gear. im buying parts slowly and just going to rebild hole engine cense it got to be tor down any ways. but i gota fix my truck first bike only thing left that runs

Sea Foam in the oil? I've used it before, but always as a gas additive to clean the intake. Wouldn't that be like putting carb cleaner in your crankcase?

[ragedigital]

Sea Foam in the oil?

From Seafoamsales.com :

"Using Sea Foam in your oil, at 1 ½ ounces per quart, is a safe way to clean a crankcase, free up rings or free up sticky lifters as you drive. Sea Foam is not a chemical engine flush and therefore, it will not damage internal engine components or plug the oil pick up screen. Sea Foam is a pure petroleum blend with no chemical additives and is safe for long term cleaning or short term pre-service cleaning."

[lunchbeast]

From Seafoamsales.com :

Thanks - I didn't realize that. I'll definitely give it a try.

[FzrPaul]

Yea, Ive used Seafoam in my crankcase and it works just fine, has only made things better on all 3 out of 4 bikes Ive used it on so far! Love it.