FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Its good, but now that you mention that I totally forgot something. I did notice a warm wire while i was troubleshooting something else a while ago. The wires coming from the key ignition switch would get warm and disconnecting the hi/low harness under the tank would stop it. However, I don't even g...

My headlight completely died and I cant find the problem. It used to flicker when I touched the start button but I cleaned the contacts up and nothing has changed. I don't get power to the harness all the way down to the relay, but it has power at the fuse box. If it is the relay, wouldn't there be ...

I figured it out and its embarrassing. It was the fuel pump. It was hardly moving any fuel. I never bothered to fully check it because it was new, I heard it running, and the carbs had fuel, but not enough. This whole damn time it was the fuel pump. Simple shit. Sounds like you found your problem, s...

I'm going in circles here but I'm closer to the problem now. Its not ignition. I inspected the stator and pickup and all was well. I ran the bike and it was running poorer than ever. After it died, I remembered ether, which I had just used on another project. The bike fired with the ether, but would...

Mine used to be just one cylinder that would cut out every now and then and it was a bad plug wire with a badly corroded end.

I can't figure my problem out either. I'm completely lost.

It should just run poorly then, the whole engine shouldn't die. What are the chances that the valvetrain would tighten up in more than two cylinders?

Mine tapers. It will run fine at all rpms, then start to cut out in the uppers, then the lower as well, but midrange is fine. Then it requires more and more throttle to maintain the rpms until it quickly tapers to dead. I've taken the cap off, didn't notice a vacuum and it didn't change anything. Th...

I swapped the ignitor box also and no change. The boots are cracked, but no worse than before. I haven't checked the valves. But this is a problem that happened over night. My coils and wires are new.

If the battery dies then its the regulator, if not then its something else. I'm waiting on a new ignitor box to show up and try.

Spark is good after death. Volts are 13.5. The short was sucking juice. Pump runs.

Anyone know what power to the coils should be? 12V+? I'll check that next. Spark is either getting weak or timing is going off. Well regardless of what it is, I guess I'm just gonna buy a ignition box.

Fuel flows great.

The short wasn't in the switch, its in the left handlebar controls. Disconnected it and the wires cooled down. However the bike still sputtered and died. But I did notice that is was only putting out 12 VOLTS!!! The VR was also pretty darn hot. The battery holds juice though and doesn't drain. It ta...

I'll try the bypass. Its a connection issue, not a short. The stock VR already went bad and swapped it for an R6. Hopefully the voltage drop is whats causing the problems. I have a feeling it is, it was much worse, and the key has been turned many times since then. No more leaving bikes out in the r...

No the main fuse doesn't. The red wire is REAL hot coming out of the harness going into the connector to the KEY, then a little less hot after the harness to the KEY. I'm wondering if this is the actual problem. The hotter a wire gets, the more resistance it creates, so...... Also the bike sat for t...

I've been working on this thing for three weeks and can't figure it out. The bike runs great for 10 minutes then starts to cut out in the upper rpms then it loses a cylinder. I limp it back to the garage and it will die a minute later. Fuel pump is good Fuel filter is good Bowls have fuel Vents aren...