FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Well I have the cast off and the wrist is well enough to turn a wrench. So I went to put on the head, and noticed that I had neglected to put on the timing chain. So I started to tear down the motor again and go to thinking. Does anyone know if the connecting link on the timing chain can be removed....

I got the pistons in the cylinders last Saturday, then broke my arm on Sunday. So unfortunately the fzr will have to wait again, but fortunately there isn't really a winter in California. The doctor is putting a plate in me tomorrow. Then only 6 weeks until the cast is removed,hopefully.

I found this on the yzf forum when I thought of a new way to phrase the search. "there is a slight difference in clearances between the rings make sure you push the rings into the cylinder the same distance, then measure the end gap with a feeler gauge. The top ring end gap spec is .006" to .012" (....

I can't get the picture to down size so I put it up on the facebook group. I thought I had put got it into that last post, but it didn't. Thanks for looking.

I finally got some time to atart reassembling the engine. I got the case halves back together yesterday and started to put the pistons on when I noticed there's a difference between the two compression rings. I didn't notice a difference with the old ones, but they were pretty dirty. Does anyone kno...

I was cleaning the case and found some rubbing of the case. There is only rubbing on the lower half of the case. There is a build up from the rubbing that extends above the lower case half. The upper case doesn't have any signs of rubbing. I posted pictures on to facebook.

It sounds like you're talking about the preload spacer. It is needed, but it doesn't have to be a certain length. You set that for depending on the preload that you want. When I changed my springs it was a pain. I tried a few thing to get the cap back on. The thing that finally worked was hanging th...

Things still aren't making sense. The crank case numbers read 666565, but they are up-side down. Check the rest of the bearings and there colors are BYGYYY. That's from left to right if I was sitting on the bike with the motor the right way up. Which still doesn't make sense. I'm either missing a st...

Normally I would have to decide on the con rods, but they are all marked 5e. So by my reasoning all the con rod bearings should be the same. The crank case numbers are 666565. We must have different manuals. My picture on the next page and it appears to have the number sets set apart. Where on my cr...

Alright my crank reads 1111122222. The manual says, " the crankshaft is marked on the left hand counterbalance with 5 sets of numbers that relate to the crankshaft main bearing journals The group of 4 right-handed numbers relates to the crank shaft connecting rod journals- do not reference these 4 n...

The motor is torn down and almost cleaned. I had to take all the old paint off first. The inside still needs to be cleaned, but I'll do that right before assembly. The main bearings are blemished and have a couple good scuffs in them. So I pulled the numbers and will be ordering new ones. There are ...

Manuals are a cheap investment at $30 or so. The rod cap is the lower half of the big end of the rod. It should have either a 4 or a 5 on it. You take that number and subtract it from the set of crank shaft number. On the right hand side of the crank shaft is two sets of numbers. Use the right set o...

Do you have the Manual? There's something like a page and a half of clearances to check. Did you figure out why the motor locked up on you. The bearing should have a colored mark on it. It's that's unclear There is a number on the rod cap and it matches up with a set on the crank shaft. You subtract...

I haven't just changed the air filter, so I'm not sure. That being said, I don't believe the extra air from the "hi-flow" would make too much of a difference. The reason I like them is they are cleanable.

The k&n filters work and I think I found mine on amazon around that price.